Rio De Janeiro City
© Lonely Planet Publications
121 RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
Rio de Janeiro City
Be warned: Rio’s powers of seduction can leave you with a bad case of saudade (indescribable
longing) when you leave. Planted between lush, forest-covered mountains and breathtaking
beaches, the Cidade Maravilhosa (Marvelous City) has many charms at her disposal.
Although joie de vivre is a French invention (as is the bikini), it’s the Cariocas (Rio dwell-
ers) who’ve made it their own. How else to explain the life-lusting zeal with which the city’s
inhabitants celebrate their days? While large-scale festivities like Carnaval make Rio famous,
there are countless occasions for revelry – Saturday at Ipanema Beach, a festa (party) in
Lapa, soccer at Maracanã, or an impromptu roda de samba (samba circle) on the sidewalks
of Leblon, Copacabana or any other corner of the city.
Music is the meeting ground for some of Brazil’s most creative artists and nets an audi-
ence as diverse as the city. This is another of Rio’s disarming traits: its rich melting pot of
cultures. Cariocas they may call themselves, but the city’s enticing variety of cuisines speaks
volumes about its history of immigration.
The spectacular landscape is another of Rio’s shameless virtues. Verdant mountains and
white-sand beaches fronting deep blue sea offer a range of adventure: surfing great breaks off
Prainha, hiking through Tijuca’s rain forests, sailing across the Baía de Guanabara (Guanabara
Bay) or rock climbing up the face of Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf Mountain).
As with any city in the tropics, there is always a downside, and Rio is no exception with its
high crime rates and alarming social inequalities. Yet despite her many problems, Rio rarely
fails to seduce, and most visitors arrive home already daydreaming of their return.
HIGHLIGHTS
Order a caipirinha and watch the sunset over
lovely Ipanema Beach ( p127 )
Celebrate with King Momo – and millions of
Lapa
others – at Carnaval ( p114 )
Take the cog train up Corcovado for stun-
ning views beneath the open-armed Cristo
Redentor ( p150 )
Cristo Redentor
Pão de
on Corcovado
Açúcar
Find the perfect beat at a samba club in
Lapa ( p179 ), one of Brazil’s most musically
charged neighborhoods
Admire the Cidade Maravilhosa from eagles’
nest heights atop Pão de Açúcar ( p149 )
Ipanema
Beach
TELEPHONE CODE: 0XX21
POPULATION: 7 MILLION
AREA : 808 SQ KM
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HISTORY
came to play and gamble at the casinos and
Ongoing efforts of the Favela-Bairro
Other areas of interest include the quaint,
The Tamoio people were living on the land
dance or perform in the nightclubs.
project continue to be a major focus of de-
colonial neighborhood of Santa Teresa, on
surrounding the Baía de Guanabara when
Rio continued to change. Three large land-
velopment. This project, begun in 1994, has
a hill overlooking Centro, and the looming
Gaspar de Lemos sailed from Portugal for
fill projects were undertaken to ease the strain
brought infrastructure and city services to
statue of Cristo Redentor, atop Corcovado in
Brazil in May 1501 and entered the huge bay
on a city restricted by its beautiful surround-
numerous favelas.
Cosme Velho, from where there are fabulous
in January 1502. Mistaking the bay for a river,
ings. The first was to become Aeroporto San-
views of both zones of the city.
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
Lemos named it Rio de Janeiro. The French,
tos Dumont, near Centro. The second resulted
ORIENTATION
Aside from the bus station, Maracanã Foot-
however, were the first Europeans to settle
in Flamengo Park, and the third expanded the
Rio is a city of unusual urban diversity, with
ball Stadium and the international airport,
along the great bay in 1555. After a brief al-
strand at Copacabana.
beaches, mountains, skyscrapers and the om-
most travelers have few reasons to visit the
liance with the Tamoio – who hated the Por-
Rio remained the political capital of Brazil
nipresent favelas all woven into the fabric of
Zona Norte.
tuguese for their cruelty – the French were
until 1960, when the government moved to
the landscape. The city itself can be divided
Rio de Janeiro’s international airport, Aero-
expelled in 1567. The Portuguese victors then
Brasília. During the 1960s, modern skyscrap-
into two zones: the Zona Norte (North Zone),
porto Galeão (GIG; also called Aeroporto
drove the Tamoio from the region in another
ers rose in the city, and some of Rio’s most
which consists of industrial, working-class
Tom Jobim), is 15km north of the city center.
series of bloody battles.
beautiful buildings were lost. During the
neighborhoods, and the Zona Sul (South
Santos Dumont airport, used by a few domes-
By the 17th century, the Tamoio had been
same period, the favelas (shantytowns) of Rio
Zone), full of middle- and upper-class neigh-
tic flights, is by the bayside in the city center,
wiped out. Those who weren’t taken into slav-
grew to critical mass with immigrants from
borhoods and Rio’s well-known beaches. Cen-
1km east of Cinelândia metro station. Rio’s
ery died from disease. Other Indians were
poverty-stricken areas of the Northeast and the
tro, Rio’s business district and the site of its
central bus station, Rodoviária Novo Rio, lies
‘pacified’ and taken to live in settlements or-
interior, swelling the number of Rio’s urban
first settlement, marks the boundary between
several kilometers northwest of Centro. For
ganized by the Jesuits. The Portuguese had
poor. The Cidade Maravilhosa began to lose
the two, and a number of the important muse-
information on getting into town from the bus
set up a fortified town on the Morro Castelo
its gloss as crime and violence increased.
ums and colonial buildings are there.
station or from the airports, see p185 .
in 1567 and, by the 17th century, Rio became
The final decade of the military dictatorship
The parts of Rio you are most likely to ex-
Brazil’s third-most important settlement (after
that ruled Brazil from 1964 to 1985 was not
plore stretch along the shore of the Baía de
Maps
Salvador da Bahia and Recife-Olinda). African
kind to Rio. There were numerous protests
Guanabara and the Atlantic Ocean. South
Guia Quatro Rodas publishes an excellent city
slaves streamed in and the sugar plantations
during that period (notably in 1968 when some
from Centro are the neighborhoods of Lapa,
map of Rio de Janeiro (R$16), available at most
thrived. Even more slaves arrived to work in
100,000 marched upon the Palácio Tiradentes).
Glória, Catete, Flamengo, Botafogo and Urca –
newsstands. Lonely Planet also produces a
the gold mines of Minas Gerais during the
Even Rio’s politicians opposed the military
where the striking peak of Pão de Açúcar
good city map. Riotur, the city’s tourist infor-
18th century.
regime, which responded by withholding vital
dominates the landscape. Further south lie
mation center, provides free street maps at its
In 1807 Napoleon’s army marched on Lis-
federal funding. The administration was forced
the neighborhoods of Copacabana, Ipanema
offices. For physical and topographical maps,
bon. Two days before the invasion, 40 ships
to tighten its belt, and infrastructure deterio-
and Leblon, the only stops for many travelers
head to Editora Geográfica J Paulini (Map pp144-5 ;
carrying the Portuguese prince regent (later
rated as the city’s coffers dried up.
to the city.
%2220 0181; Shop K, Rua Senador Dantas 75, Centro).
known as Dom João VI) and his entire court
A turning point for Rio came when it was
of 15,000 set sail for Brazil. When the prince
chosen as host city for Eco 92, the UN Con-
regent arrived in Rio, his Brazilian subjects
ference on Environment and Development.
RIO IN…
celebrated wildly, dancing in the streets. He
In the build-up to the conference, the federal
Two Days
immediately took over the rule of Brazil from
government poured in almost US$1 billion to
Start your day off with a refreshing glass of açaí (nutritious berry-like fruit) at a neighborhood
his viceroy.
improve Rio’s infrastructure. Approximately
juice bar and head to lovely Ipanema Beach (p127). For lunch, stroll up the sands to Leblon
Dom João fell in love with Brazil. Even after
US$18 million was spent on satellite com-
(p126) and grab a bite on restaurant-packed Rua Días Ferreira, followed by window-shopping
he became king of Portugal, he remained and
munications alone, and Riocentro, a huge
on the streets of Leblon and Ipanema. End the saunter at Praia do Arpoador, one of Rio’s best
declared Rio the capital of the UK of Portugal,
convention center, was built.
places to watch the sunset. After a powernap (or a cafezinho – strong, espresso-sized coffee), have
Brazil and the Algarve. This made Brazil the
Today Rio’s coffers are full, and the city
dinner at a lakeside kiosk in Lagoa ( p128 ). On day two, take the cable car to Pão de Açúcar
only New World colony to ever have a Euro-
buzzes with an unstoppable creative energy,
( p149 ), followed by a stroll around Urca ( p149 ). Around lunchtime, ride the bonde (tram) to Santa
pean monarch ruling on its soil.
as long-awaited projects are finally being
Teresa and dine at Espírito Santa ( p176 ) or another well-placed Santa spot. In the evening, go
At the end of the 19th century the city’s
financed. The biggest is the Favela-Bairro
to a samba club in Lapa ( p179 ) for Rio’s best music scene.
population exploded because of European
project, which strives to integrate favelas
immigration and internal migration (mostly
into the rest of the city by providing basic
Five Days
of ex-slaves from the declining coffee and
sanitation and by planning leisure areas,
On your third day, do something active – hire a bike for a ride along the beachfront or go
sugar regions). By 1890 Rio boasted more
health clinics, schools, preschools and com-
hiking in Parque Nacional da Tijuca (see the boxed text on p160 ). In the evening, dine in one
than a million inhabitants, a quarter of them
munity centers (Rio has pledged a total of
of Ipanema’s great restaurants. On day four, explore the old streets of Centro ( p152 ), stopping
foreign-born, and the city spread rapidly.
US$1 billion over the life of the project). At
in some of its excellent museums, cultural centers and churches. In between sightseeing, have
The early 1920s to the late 1950s were
the same time, some of Rio’s aging colonial
lunch at Brasserie Rosário ( p175 ) or one of the outdoor cafés nearby. In the evening, catch a
Rio’s golden age. With the inauguration of
gems are slowly being revitalized as new
football match at Maracanã ( p156 ). On your last day, rise early for a stroll along Copacabana
the grand hotels (the Glória in 1922 and the
businesses arrive.
beach, stopping for coffee at the idyllic Confeitaria Colombo ( p173 ). Afterwards, take the cog
Copacabana Palace in 1924), Rio became a
Rio’s most recent makeover took place
train up Corcovado to Cristo Redentor ( p150 ), for outstanding views. Have dinner that night
romantic, exotic destination for Hollywood
in preparation for the 2007 Pan Am games,
in Yorubá ( p174 ).
celebrities and international high society who
bringing thousands of visitors to the city.
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INFORMATION
Instituto Moreira Salles (Map p137 ; %3284 7400;
event listings, particularly strong on Thurs-
COPACABANA
Bookstores
www.ims.com.br; Rua Marquês de Sao Vicente 476,
day and Sunday. The national publication
Câmbios can be found on Av NS de Copac-
Argumento (Map pp138-9 ; %2239 5294; Rua Días
Gávea; admission free; h1-8pm Tue-Sun) A beautiful
Veja has a Veja Rio insert, which details
abana, right near the Copacabana Palace hotel.
Ferreira 417, Leblon) Small but decent selection of foreign-
cultural center that hosts impressive exhibitions. Leafy
weekly entertainment options (it comes out
The following places are also on the main
language books and magazines. Café in back.
gardens and a café lie next door.
on Sunday).
streets of Copacabana; see Map pp140–1 .
Bar das Artes (Map pp144-5 ; %2215 5795; Praça XV
American Express (Av Atlântica 1702, Copacabana) The
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
de Novembro 48, Centro) Combination bistro/bookstore/
Emergency
Medical Services
usual Amex services.
music shop, inside the Paço Imperial.
Report robberies to the tourist police (Map
There are scores of pharmacies in town, a
Banco do Brasil (Av NS de Copacabana 1292) ATM.
Letras e Expressões Ipanema (Map pp138-9 ; %2521
pp138-9 ; %3399 7170; Rua Afrânio de Melo Franco 159,
number of which stay open 24 hours, in-
Banco do Brasil (Av NS de Copacabana 594) Money
6110; Rua Visconde de Pirajá 276, Ipanema; h8am-
Leblon; h24hr).
cluding two branches of Drogaria Pacheco Av
exchange.
midnight); Leblon (Map pp138-9 ; %2511 5085; Av
Other useful numbers:
NS de Copacabana 115 (Map pp140-1 ; Av NS de Copacabana
Casa Universal (Av NS de Copacabana 371) A recom-
Ataulfo de Paiva 1292, Leblon; h24hr) Foreign-language
Ambulance (%192)
115, Copacabana; h24hr); Av NS de Copacabana 534 (Map
mended câmbio.
books and magazines, plus an internet café at each branch.
Fire department (%193)
pp140-1 ; Av NS de Copacabana 534, Copacabana; h24hr);
Citibank (Av NS de Copacabana 828) ATM.
Livraria da Travessa Av Rio Branco (Map pp144-5 ; Av Rio
Police (%190)
Rua Visconde de Pirajá (Map pp138-9 ; Rua Visconde de Pirajá,
HSBC (Av Princesa Isabel 186) ATM.
Branco 44, Centro); Rua Visconde de Pirajá (Map pp138-9 ;
Ipanema) and Farmácia do Leme (Map pp140-1 ; Av Prado
%2249 4977; Rua Visconde de Pirajá 572, Ipanema);
Internet Access
Júnior 231, Copacabana; h24hr). Meanwhile, in Le-
IPANEMA
Travessa do Ouvidor (Map pp144-5 ; Travessa do Ouvidor
Internet cafés charge R$4 to R$8 per hour.
blon, Farmácia Piauí (Map pp138-9 ; %2274 8448; Av
Find other câmbios scattered along Rua Vis-
17, Centro; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) Books
Central Fone (Map pp138-9 ; Rua Teixeira de Melo 47,
Ataulfo de Paiva 1283, Leblon; h24hr) also stays open
conde de Pirajá, west of Praça NS de Paz.
and periodicals, CDs and an excellent café at the Ipanema
Ipanema; h9:30am-9:30pm)
24 hours.
Citibank (Map pp138-9 ; Rua Visconde de Pirajá 459A,
branch.
iCafé (Map pp138-9 ; Rua Prudente de Morais 167B,
For medical emergencies visit one of
Ipanema) ATM and money exchange.
Livraria Prefácio (Map pp142-3 ; %2527 5699; Rua
Ipanema; per hr R$10; h10am-10pm) For Mac lovers.
the following:
Voluntários da Pátria 39, Botafogo) Occasionally hosts
Letras & Expressões Ipanema (Map pp138-9 ; Rua
Hospital Ipanema (Map pp138-9 ; %3111 2300; Rua
Post
readings in its back café.
Visconde de Pirajá 276; h8am-midnight); Leblon (Map
Antônio Parreiras 67, Ipanema)
Most correios (post offices) open from 8am
Nova Livraria Leonardo da Vinci (Map pp144-5 ;
pp138-9 ; Av Ataulfo de Paiva 1292; h24hr)
Miguel Couto Hospital (Map pp138-9 ; %2274 2121;
to 6pm Monday to Friday, and on Saturday
%2533 2237; Av Rio Branco 185, Centro) One of Rio’s
Fone Rio (Map pp140-1 ; Rua Constante Ramos 22,
Av Bartolomeu Mitre 1108, Gávea)
until noon. Any mail addressed to Posta Re-
best collections of foreign-language books.
Copacabana; h9am-midnight)
stante, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, ends up at the
Locutório (Map pp140-1 ; Av NS de Copacabana 1171,
Money
main post office (Map pp144-5 ; Rua Primeiro de Março
Cultural Centers
Copacabana; h8am-2am)
ATMs can be found throughout the city.
64, Centro).
Casa de Cultura Laura Alvim (Map pp138-9 ; %2267
Tele Rede (Map pp140-1 ; Av NS de Copacabana 209A,
Banco do Brasil, Bradesco, Citibank and
Other branches include the following:
1647; Av Vieira Souto 176, Ipanema) Ipanema’s beachside
Copacabana; h8am-2am)
HSBC are the best banks to try when using
Botafogo post office (Map pp142-3 ; Praia de Botafogo
cultural center has a cinema, gallery space, and an enticing
Eurogames (Map pp142-3 ; Rua Corrêa Dutra 39B, Catete;
a debit or credit card. Even though many
324, Botafogo)
café.
h10am-10pm)
ATMs advertise 24-hour service, these ‘24
Copacabana post office (Map pp140-1 ; Av NS de
Casa França-Brasil (Map pp144-5 ; %2253 5366;
Central Fone (Map pp144-5 ; basement level, Av Rio
hours’ usually fall between 6am and 10pm.
Copacabana 540, Copacabana)
www.casafrancabrasil.rj.gov.br; Rua Visconde de Itaboraí
Branco 156, Centro; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat)
On Sundays and holidays, ATM access
Ipanema post office (Map pp138-9 ; Rua Prudente de
78, Centro; admission free; hnoon-8pm Tue-Sun)
Cyber Café Fundição Progresso (Map pp144-5 ; Rua
ends at 3pm. Money changing is speedier
Morais 147, Ipanema)
Opened in 1990, this cultural center hosts Franco-Brazilian
dos Arcos 24, Lapa)
at casas de câmbio (exchange offices) than
exhibitions. A lovely bistro is hidden out the back.
at banks. At the airport, international ATMs
Telephone
Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil (Map pp144-5 ;
Internet Resources
and money exchange are located on the 3rd
For local telephone calls – and other calls
%3808 2020; www.cultura-e.com.br; Rua Primeiro de
www.ipanema.com Dubbed ‘the insider’s guide to Rio,’
floor of arrivals.
within Brazil – you will need to buy a
Março 66, Centro; hnoon-8pm Tue-Sun) One of Rio’s
this website has excellent up-to-date city info.
cartão telefônico (phone card; R$5 to R$20).
best cultural centers, with excellent exhibitions, a film
www.riodejaneiro-turismo.com.br Riotur’s compre-
CENTRO
These cards are available from newsstands
series and lunchtime and evening concerts.
hensive website, in Portuguese and English.
A number of exchange offices can be found
and street vendors. See p707 for more
Centro Cultural Carioca (Map pp144-5 ; %2242
on either side of Av Rio Branco, several
info. Many internet cafés offer an inter-
9642; www.centroculturalcarioca.com.br; Rua do Teatro
Laundry
blocks north of Av Presidente Vargas. Other
national calling service, and Skype is also
37, Centro; hnoon-8pm Mon-Sat) On Praça Tiradentes,
A drop-off, wash-and-fold service costs
options include the following, located on
widely available.
this cultural center hosts musical groups along with dance
around R$15 per load.
Map pp144–5 :
Central Fone (Map pp138-9 ; Rua Teixeira de Melo 47,
recitals and ongoing exhibitions.
Laundromat (Map pp140-1 ; Rua Barata Ribeiro 181B,
Banco 24 Horas (near Ave Rio Branco) ATM outside
Ipanema; h9:30am-9:30pm)
Centro Cultural Laurinda Santos Lobo (Map pp144-
Copacabana) Across from the metro station.
Carioca metro stop.
Fone Rio (Map pp140-1 ; Rua Constante Ramos 22,
5 ; %2224 3331; Rua Monte Alegre 306, Santa Teresa;
Laundromat (Map pp140-1 ; Av NS de Copacabana 1226,
Banco do Brasil (Rua Senador Dantas 105) ATM on 1st
Copacabana; h9am-midnight)
h8am-5pm) The large mansion built in 1907 occasion-
Copacabana)
floor, money exchange on 2nd fl.
Locutório (Map pp140-1 ; Av NS de Copacabana 1171,
ally hosts exhibitions and open-air concerts.
Casa Aliança (%2224 4617; Rua Miguel Couto 35C)
Copacabana; h8-2am)
Fundição Progresso (Map pp144-5 ; %2220 5070; Rua
Media
h9am-5:30pm) A recommended câmbio.
Tele Rede (Map pp140-1 ; Av NS de Copacabana 209A,
dos Arcos 24, Cinelândia; admission free; h9am-6pm
Rio’s main daily papers are Jornal do Brasil
Citibank (Rua da Assembléia 100) Has ATM and money
Copacabana; h8-2am)
Mon-Fri) This former foundry stages avant-garde exhibi-
(www.jbonline.com.br) and O Globo (www
exchange.
Central Fone (Map pp144-5 ; basement level, Av Rio
tions and performances.
.globo.com.br). Both have entertainment and
HSBC (Praça Floriano 23) ATM.
Branco 156, Centro; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat)
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Tourist Information
out while you’re on them. Take taxis at night to
Riotur is Rio’s tourism agency. It has a tourist
avoid walking along empty streets, and never
A VISIONARY PLAN FOR A TROUBLED STATE
information hot line called Alô Rio (%toll-free
walk on the beach at night. Centro, which is
In Brazil, where it’s business-as-usual in many public offices, Sérgio Cabral, the 44-year-old newly
in Brazil 0800-285 0555, 2542 8080; h9am-6pm). The
deserted in the evening and on weekends,
elected governor of Rio brings a bold new vision to the state.
helpful receptionists speak English. Riotur’s
should only be explored during weekdays.
One of Cabral’s role models is former New York City mayor Rudolph Giuliani, whose ‘zero
useful multilingual website, www.riodeja-
Purse- and bag-snatching is extremely
tolerance’ crime policies are often credited with cleaning up the city. Cabral has promised to
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
neiro-turismo.com.br, is also a good source
common on the beaches of Copacabana and
root out corruption in the police force and bring reform to a justice system of short sentences,
of information.
Ipanema, where thieves work with lightning
rampant inefficiencies and often bribed officials. He plans to build more prisons to alleviate the
All of the Riotur offices distribute maps
speed. Always keep an eye on your stuff and
overcrowding that stigmatizes the Brazilian penal system.
and the excellent (and updated) quarterly
don’t take anything of value to the beach.
Cabral seems determined. He has already moved some of the most dangerous criminals from
Rio Guide, listing the major events of the
Unfortunately, armed robberies are on the
local prisons to a new facility in another state, where their influence and means of communicating
season. The Riotur Centro (Map pp144-5 ; %2588
rise and have occurred on the streets of Lapa,
with gang leaders will be compromised. In his first four months in office, he fired more than 100
9134; 9th fl, Rua Assembléia 10, Centro; h9am-6pm Mon-
Santa Teresa and Copacabana (where 40% of
police officers and has said that perhaps as many as 10,000 of Rio’s military police are corrupt.
Fri) is the best office for obtaining informa-
the city’s tourist robberies occur).
Cabral plans to bring new roads and city services into favelas, hoping to break the strangle-
tion. English-speaking staff are always on
Maracanã Football Stadium is worth a visit,
hold gangs have on communities there. He has jumpstarted a family-planning program in poor
hand, and they’ll call around for you to find
but take only spending money for the day and
neighborhoods, making condoms and the pill more widely available.
a hotel if you show up without a reserva-
avoid the crowded sections. Don’t wander
Critics of Cabral’s ‘tough-on-crime’ approach say it’s the same message that’s been tried and
tion. There is a second branch in Copacabana
into the favelas unless you’re with a guide who
has failed in the past. Whether Cabral brings meaningful change to Rio will undoubtedly play
(Map pp140-1 ; %2541 7522; Av Princesa Isabel 183, Co-
really knows the area.
out on city streets in the coming years.
pacabana; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri). At the tourist
If you have the misfortune of being robbed,
offices, you can also pick up a Riopass (www
slowly hand over the goods. Thieves in the city
.riopass.com), a free discount card launched in
are only too willing to use their weapons.
bars and restaurants scattered along tree-lined
is mostly the domain of favela kids. Arpoador,
2007 that gives 5% to 15% off certain shops
streets. This is Rio’s premier zip code and fa-
between Ipanema and Copacabana, is Rio’s
and restaurants.
Scams
vored stomping ground for wealthy Cariocas,
most popular surf spot, while Leblon attracts
Riotur also has the following information
A common beach scam is for one thief to
young and old, gay and straight.
a broad mix of Cariocas.
booths:
approach you from one side and ask you for
Ipanema acquired international fame in the
Whatever spot you choose, you’ll enjoy
Aeroporto Galeão (Map p137 ; Arrival Terminals 1 & 2;
a light or the time. While you’re distracted,
early ’60s as the home of the bossa nova char-
cleaner sands and sea than those found in
h6am-midnight;)
the thief’s partner grabs your gear from the
acter ‘The Girl from Ipanema.’ It became the
neighboring Copacabana. Keep in mind that
Rodoviária Novo Rio (Map pp146-7 ; Av Francisco
other side.
hangout of artists, intellectuals and wealthy
if you go on Saturday or Sunday, it gets very
Bicalho, São Cristóvão; h8am-8pm)
liberals, who frequented the sidewalk cafés
crowded. Incidentally, the word ipanema is
SIGHTS
and bars. After the 1964 military coup and the
Indian for ‘bad, dangerous waters’ – an apt de-
Travel Agencies
The once mighty ‘capital of the Brazilian em-
resulting crackdown on liberals, many of these
scription given the strong undertow and often
American Express (Map pp140-1 ; %2548 2148; Av
pire’ (as one Portuguese king called it), Rio
bohemians were forced into exile. During the
oversized waves crashing on the shore. Be
Atlântica 1702, Copacabana CEP 20040; h9am-5:30pm
has much more than just pretty beaches. From
’70s, Leblon became the nightlife center of Rio.
careful, and swim only where the locals do.
Mon-Fri)
the bohemian lanes of old Santa Teresa to
The restaurants and bars of Baixo (Lower) Le-
A few fishermen, casting out to sea, min-
Andes Sol (Map pp140-1 ; %2275 4370; Av NS de
the village-like charm of Urca, Rio’s colonial
blon, on Av Ataulfo de Paiva, between Ruas
gle with couples admiring the view from the
Copacabana 209, Copacabana) A good multilingual agency.
streets, magnificent churches and leafy plazas
Aristídes Espínola and General Artigas, were
lookout known as Mirante do Leblon, at the west
Casa Aliança (Map pp144-5 ; %2224 4617;
provide urban wanderers with days of explo-
the meeting points for a new generation of
end of Leblon Beach, stretching down Leblon
casaalianca@casaalianca.com.br; Rua Miguel Couto 35C,
ration. Its lake (Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas), the
artists and musicians. Evenings continue to
and Ipanema Beaches.
Centro; h9am-5:30pm)
lush Jardim Botânico (Botanical Gardens) and
be very animated here today, even though the
G Brazil (Map pp138-9 ; %2247 4431; www.gbrazil
the Atlantic rain forest still trimming many
heart of Rio’s nightlife has moved to Lapa.
MUSEU H STERN
.com; Suite 303, Rua Farme de Amoedo 76, Ipanema) Rio’s
parts of the city make for idyllic retreats after
The headquarters of H Stern, the famous jeweler,
gay specialist.
discovering its historic center. There are also
IPANEMA & LEBLON BEACHES
contains the Museu H Stern (Map pp138-9 ; %2274
Le Bon Voyage (Map pp144-5 ; %2287 4403; lebon
the fantastic overlooks from Pão de Açúcar
Although the beaches of Ipanema and Leblon
3447; www.hstern.com.br in Portuguese; Rua Garcia D’Ávila
voyage@hotmail.com; Rua Visconde de Pirajá 82, Ipanema)
(Sugarloaf) and Cristo Redentor (Christ the
(Map pp138–9 ) are really one long beach, the
113; admission free; h8:30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat),
Redeemer), tranquil islands in the bay, wildly
postos (posts) along them subdivide the beach
an interesting fine-jewelry museum.
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
beautiful beaches to the west, and vibrant
into areas as diverse as the city itself. Posto 9,
If you’re in the market for it, the adjoining
Rio is indeed a crime-ridden city. But if you
markets, with vendors peddling everything
right off Rua Vinícius de Moraes, is Garota de
store has an array of finely crafted jewelry,
travel sensibly when visiting, you will likely
from vintage bossa records to tangy jabuticaba
Ipanema, which is where Rio’s most lithe and
watches and other accessories for sale.
suffer nothing worse than a few bad hang-
(a native fruit).
tanned bodies tend to migrate. The area is also
overs. All the same, theft is not uncommon,
known as the Cemetério dos Elefantes because of
MUSEU AMSTERDAM SAUER
and you should do what you can to mini-
Ipanema & Leblon
the old leftists, hippies and artists who hang
Next door to Museu H Stern, the Museu
mize the risks of getting robbed.
Truly among the world’s most enchanting
out there. The beach in front of Rua Farme
Amsterdam Sauer (Map pp138-9 ; %2512 1132; www
Buses are well-known targets for thieves.
addresses, Ipanema and Leblon are blessed
de Amoedo, also called Bolsa de Valores and
.amsterdamsauer.com; Rua Garcia D’Ávila 105; admission free;
Avoid taking them after dark, and keep an eye
with a magnificent beach and open-air cafés,
Crystal Palace, is the gay section, while Posto 8
h9:30am-2:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) also houses
0
5 km
128 R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • S i g h t s
l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m
RIO DE JANEIRO
0
3 miles
137
A
B
C
D
To
an impressive collection of precious stones –
Petrópolis
(80km)
Magé
Estrela
over 3000 items in all. It also has two life-size
SUNDAY SUNNY SUNDAY
Av
Rio
Ponta
Presi
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
replicas of mines.
Many museums in Rio are free on Sunday,
do Saco
de
Rio Iguacu
Estádio Caio Martins..........................1 D4
1
Like H Stern, the Amsterdam Sauer store
making it a good day to pack in your sight-
ten
2
Ilha de Paquetá..................................
D2
Ilha do
Kennedy
3
Instituto Moreira Salles....................... B6
is the place to lay down some serious cash if
seeing. If the weather is simply too lovely
Morro
Grande
4
Museu Histórico da Cidade................. B5
BR
you’re looking for precious gems or well-made
for staying indoors, head to the shore. Sun-
40
Museum de Arte Contemporânea......5 D4
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
Canal
6
Vista Chinesa......................................
B5
accessories.
Ilha de
day is also the day when the beachfront
Sarapui
Pancaraíba
road running from Leblon to Leme closes
SHOPPING
Rodovia Washington
7
Barra Shopping..................................
A6
Gávea, Jardim Botânico & Lagoa
to traffic. Cyclists, joggers and skaters fill
Ilha de
Duque de
8
São Conrado Fashion Mall..................
B6
Brocoió
Caxias
Beginning just north of Ipanema and Leb-
the seaside lanes; further north, the road
lon, these well-heeled neighborhoods front
through Parque do Flamengo also closes
Ilha de
Ilha de
Paquetá
2
B a í a d e
Boqueirão
the Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, a picturesque
to traffic.
G u a n a b a r a
Belford Roxo
saltwater lagoon ringed with a walking/biking
2
trail and dotted with lakeside kiosks serv-
ing cuisine alfresco and live music on warm
PARQUE LAGE
nights. The other big draw here is the royal
Beautiful Parque Lage (Map pp138-9 ; %2527 2397;
João de
Rio São
Meriti
Ilha do
garden (Jardim Botânico) that gave the neigh-
www.eavparquelage.org.br; Rua Jardim Botânico 414, Jardim
Governador
BR
borhood its name. Here you’ll find stately
Botânico; h8am-5pm) has English-style gardens,
116
Via
palms, rare orchids and colorful flowering
little lakes and the Escola de Artes Visuais (School
Expressa Pres
Aeroporto
BR
Galeão
plants. Aside from its natural attractions,
of Visual Arts), which often hosts art exhibi-
101
idente Jo
Av Brasil
RIBEIRA
CORDOVIL
these neighborhoods have some excellent
tions and an occasional performance. A lovely
ão Goulart
restaurants, trendy bars, a planetarium and
café lies on the grounds.
IRAJÁ
the city’s horseracing track.
PENHA
Av Uranos
3
PARQUE DA CIDADE & MUSEU HISTÓRICO
Ponta do
B a í a d e
ia
d
r
G u a n a b a r a
JARDIM BOTÂNICO
DA CIDADE
o
c
Catalão
iseri
RAMOS
M
e
S rra da
Ilha do
The exotic Jardim Botânico (Map pp138-9 ; %3874
The 19th-century mansion on the lovely
BR
Fundão
COSMOS
101
Ponta de
1808; www.jbrj.gov.br; Rua Jardim Botânico 920, Jardim
grounds of the Parque da Cidade (Map pp138-9 ;
Ferry to Ilha
Santo António
de Paquetá
BONSUCESSO
Av Martin Lut
Botânico; admission R$4; h8am-5pm), housing over
admission free; h7am-6pm) now houses the Museu
INHAÚMA
er
h
Ponte Pres Costa E Silva
Ilha da
Ki
5000 varieties of plant, was designed by order
Histórico da Cidade (City History Museum; %2512
BR
n
Amarela
Conceinção
g
101
Jr
Linha
Av Brasil
of the Prince Regent Dom João in 1808. It’s
2353; Estrada de Santa Marinha 505, Gávea; admission R$6;
Vermelha
Linha
CAJU
Av Dom
Hélder
See Centro, Cinelândia
Ponta de
quiet and serene on weekdays and blossoms
h11am-5pm Tue-Sun), which portrays Rio from
Câmara
& Lapa Map pp144–5
Armação
To Museu
with families and music on weekends. A pleas-
its founding in 1565 to the mid-20th century.
Aerospacial
(6km)
See São Cristóvão & Maracanã Map pp146–7
Ilha das
NITERÓI
ant outdoor café overlooks the gardens.
The museum also has exhibitions of furni-
MÉIER
Cabras
ÁGUA SANTA
To Piratininga;
4
ROCHA
ture, porcelain, photographs and paintings
SÃO
Ferry to Niterói Camboinhas; 1
CRISTÓVÃO
Rodoviária
Itaipu; Itacoatiara
CENTRO
LAGOA RODRIGO DE FREITAS
by well-known artists.
Novo Rio
Amarela
s
orro
Aeroporto
5
Pretos
F
Santos
One of the city’s most picturesque spots, Lagoa
os
d
Linha
ESTÁCIO
Ilha da Boa
a
r
Dumont
MARACANÃ
r
Viagem
Rodrigo de Freitas
e
(Map pp138–9 ) is encircled
INSTITUTO MOREIRA SALLES
S
GRAJAU
SANTA
Estrada dos Três
TERESA
by a 7.2km cycling/walking path. Bikes are
The beautiful Instituto Moreira Salles (Map p137 ;
Rios
Morro dos See Flamengo, Botafogo & Catete Map pp142–3
available for hire (R$16 per hour) near Parque
%3284 7400; www.ims.com.br in Portuguese; Rua Marquês
ANDARÍ
Prazeres
ca
(282m)
FLAMENGO
Bonfim
io
Brigadeiro Faria Lima, as are paddle boats (R$25
de Sao Vicente 476, Gávea; admission free; h1-8pm Tue-
r
a
Parque
C
Pico da
a
Corcovado
per half hour). For those who prefer caipir-
Sun), next to the Parque da Cidade, contains
Nacional
d
Tijuca
Conde de
TIJURA
Train
Morro da
Est de Jacarepaguá
da Tijuca
(1012m)
a
Rue
r
Station
Viúva
inhas (drinks made from sugarcane spirit,
an archive of more than 80,000 photographs,
r
URCA
Pico do
e
ANIL
S
Archer
Corcovado
BOTAFOGO
Pão de
crushed lime, sugar and ice) to plastic swan
many portraying old streets of Rio. The gar-
Açúar
(817m)
Bico do
(710m)
(395m)
5
Papagaio
boats, the kiosks on either side of the lake
dens, complete with artificial lake and flowing
See Ipanema, Leblon & Gávea Map pp138–9
(989m)
LEME
Ilha da
Cotunduba
offer food and drinks, often accompanied by
river, were designed by Brazilian landscape
ALTO DA
Parque Nacional
Ponta do
BOA VISTA
Jardim
COPACABANA
da Tijuca
Leme
live music.
architect Burle Marx. There’s also a craft shop
Itanhangá
Botânico
Morro dos
Est do
Praia de
GÁVEA
Lagoa
Cabritos
Copacabana
and a café serving lunch and afternoon tea.
Parque da
6
Rodrigo
(385m)
ITANHANGÁ
Cidade
de Freitas
4
PARQUE DA CATACUMBA
3
IPANEMA
Ponta de
LEBLON
Brazil’s first outdoor sculptural garden, Parque
PLANETÁRIO
To Rio Design Center (2km);
Copacabana
Mini-Rio (2.5km); Terra
Rocinha
ARPOADOR
Praia de
da Catacumba
Encantada (3km); Rio Sport
(Map pp138-9 ; Av Epitácio Pessoa, Lagoa;
Gávea’s stellar attraction, the Planetário (Plan-
Centre (4km)
Ipanema
Ponta do
Arpoador
da Tijuca
h8am-7pm) sits atop the Morro dos Cabri-
etarium; Map pp138-9 ; %3523 4040; www.rio.rj.gov
Est da Barra
BARRA DA
SÃO
8
Lagoa da
7
TIJUCA
CONRADO
Tijuca
tos, which rises from the Lagoa Rodrigo de
.br/planetario in Portuguese; Av Padre Leonel Franca 240,
Canal de
Praia do Pepino
See Copacabana & Leme Map pp140–1
(Praia de São Conrado)
Marapendi
Freitas. During the summer, Catacumba often
Gávea; admission R$6; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun, 3-7pm
Praia da
6
Barra da Tijuca
To Joá; Recrecio dos
Ponta do
hosts free Sunday-afternoon concerts in its
A T L A N T I C
Bandeirantes (6km);
Marisco
Prainha (12km); Grumari (16km);
Praia de
Ilha das
O C E A N
outdoor amphitheater.
Guaratiba (22km); Sitio Burle
Joatinga
Palmas
(Continued on page 148)
Marx (22km); Bira (23km);
Tia Palmira (23km)
0
500 m
138
IPANEMA, LEBLON & GÁVEA
0
0.3 miles
139
Rua Maria Angélica
A
B
Rua Lopes Quintas
C
D
E
F
G
H
31
Rua Jardim Botãnico
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
EATING
80
Sushi Leblon....................
B5
INFORMATION
76
1
Argumento..............................
B5
LAGOA
22
Dive Point..............................
B5
Morro da
00.................................(see 32)
Vegetariano Social Club..81 C4
Rua Visc Itaúna
Escolinha de Surf Paulo
Saudade
2
Banco do Brasil......................... F5
Av Alexandre
Arab da Lagoa.................49 D3
82
Zazá Bistrô Tropical..........
F5
Ferr
(245m)
eira
23
Dolabella............................
E5
50
Armazém do Café............
B5
83
Zona Sul Supermarket......
B5
3
Banco do Brasil......................... B5
Rua Peri
Rua Faro
1
Rua Oliveira
Rua Inglês de Souza
Rua da Fonte da SAvdade
1
24
Escolinha de Vôlei...................
E5
51
Ateliê Culinário................
B5
4
Banco do Brasil & Bradesco......
C5
Rocha
Jardim Botânico.....................25 C2
B!..................................(see 16)
5
BankBoston & Bradesco Info..... F5
Rua
Rocha
DRINKING
da
Just Fly................................(see 35)
52
Bazzar..............................
E5
Academia da Cachaça.....84 C4
Casa da Cultura Laura Alvim...6 G5
JARDIM BOTÂNICO
R Jota Jota Seabra
Corcovado
Rua Zara
26
Mirante do Leblon.................
B6
53
Braseiro da Gávea............
B3
85
Bar Bofetada....................
F5
Central Fone............................7 G5
Machado
Rua Siqueira
Rua Fernando Magalhes
120
ula
89
Pa
27
Museu Amsterdam Sauer.......
E5
54
Cafeína............................
F5 Euclides
Campos
Bar D'Hotel....................(see 45)
8
Citibank................................... F5
Rua von
Rua Lopes
Martius
e
28
Museu H Stern.......................
E5
55
Capricciosa.......................
F5
86
Bar Lagoa.........................
F4
d
Drogaria Pacheco....................9 G5
Av Borges de Medeiros
Rua
90
u
29
Paddle Boats...........................
F3
Casa da Feijoada.............56 G5
87
Botequim Informal...........
C5
e
10
Farmácia Piauí........................
B5
in
L
30
Parque Brigadeiro Faria Lima..
D3
Cobal de Leblon..............57 C4
G Brazil ...............................(see 46)
Rua Pachaco Leão
Rua Saturnino
Rua Maestro Francisco Braga
88
Bracarense.......................
C5
v
A
31
Parque Lage...........................
D1
58
Da Silva............................
F5
89
Caroline Café...................
D1
11
Hospital Ipanema...................
G5
de Brito
32
Planetário..............................
A4
59
Delírio Tropical.................
E5
Cobal de LeblonDRK.....(see 57)
iCafé.....................................12 G5
98
Rio by Bike...........................(see 35)
60
Enviada............................
B5
Le Bon Voyage......................13 G5
Rua Santa Clara 90
Da Graça..........................
B1
Rua Gen Garzon
Special Bike...........................33 G5
61
Escola do Pão..................
D2
91
Devassa...........................
B6
14
Letras e Expressões.................
F5
61
62
Fellini...............................
B5
Drink Café.....................(see 49)
15
Letras e Expressões.................
B5
25
SLEEPING
Fontes.........................(see 106)
92
Empório...........................
E5
Livraria da Travessa...............16 D5
Ilha
Piraquê
Arpoador Inn......................... 34 H6
Frontera..........................63 G5
Galeria Café....................93 G5
17
Miguel Couto Hospital...........
B4
2
35
Casa 6 Ipanema.....................
F5
64
Garcia & Rodrigues..........
B5
94
Garota de Ipanema..........
F5
2
18
Post Office.............................
E5
Che Lagarto Ipanema............36 D5
65
Guimas............................
B3
95
Guapo Loco.....................
B5
19
Post Office.............................
B5
37
Everest Park............................
E5
66
Gula Gula.........................
E5
COPACABANA
96
Hipódromo Up.................
B3
Post Office............................20 G5
38
Hotel San Marco....................
E5
67
HortiFruti.........................
B5
97
Jobi..................................
B5
Tourist Police.........................21 C5
Parque
Tom Jobim
39
Hotel Vermont.......................
F5
Morro dos Cabritos
68
Kurt.................................
B5
98
Saturnino.........................
C2
Rua Jardim Botânico
40
Ipanema Beach House............
E5
(385m)
69
Lagoa Kiosks....................
F3
99
Seu Martin.......................
B5
Lebon
Ipanema Flat Hotel
Lagoa Kiosks..................(see 49)
Shenanigan's.................100 G5
Túnel
Residência.........................41 G5
Mel & Pimenta................70 G5
101
Tó Nem Aí.....................
F5
Major Vaz
42
Ipanema Inn...........................
E5
71
Mil Frutas.........................
E5
Parque dos
Patins
43
Ipanema Sweet.......................
F5
72
Mustafá...........................
C5
ENTERTAINMENT
Lagoa Rodrigo
Lighthouse Hostel................(see 35)
73
Nam Thai.........................
B5
102
Baronneti.......................
F5
Epitácio Pessoa
44
Margarida's Pousada..............
E5
74
New Natural.....................
F5
103
Bombar..........................
B5
de Freitas
Rua Constante Ramos
Av
45
Marina All Suites....................
C5
75
Nik Sushi..........................
E5
104
Casa da Lua...................
F5
110
46
Rio Apartments......................
F5
76
Olympe............................
E1
Cineclube Laura Alvim.....(see 6)
30
47
Ritz Plaza Hotel......................
B5
Osteria Dell'Angolo.........77 D5
105
Dama de Ferro...............
F4
Rubens Vaz
96
3
Jockey Club
49
48
Sol Ipanema...........................
F5
78
Polis Sucos.......................
E5
Estação Ipanema...........106 D5 3
Praça
Rua Major 65
Santos
Brasileiro
79
Salitre..............................
B5
107
Melt..............................
B6
Dumont
53
Hipódromo
Av Borges de Medeiros
Av Epitá
108
Vinícius Piano Bar..........
F5
Parque da
da Gávea
69
Rua dos Oitis
Av Bartolomeu
Catacumba
io Pessoa
c
SHOPPING
!La Cucaracha!..............109 G5
29
GÁVEA
110
Babilônia Feira Hype......
B3
de São Vicente
Rua Artur Araipe
Rua Bolívar
111
Contemporâneo.............
E5
112
Empório Brasil................
D5
Mitrre
Rua Marquês
Rua Xavier da Silveira
113
Forum............................
E5
Av Henrique
Ru
Dodsworth
114
Gilson Martins................
E5
a
17
Parque do
Mig
Hippie Fair.....................115 G5
u
Av Rodrigo Otávio
Cantaglo
el Le
Rua Mário Ribeiro
m
116
Ipanema.com.................
G5
o
Rua Adal
s
Estádio José Bastos Padilha
117
Isabela Capeto...............
B5
Praça NS
(Estádio da Gávea)
118
Lidador..........................
B5
32
Auxiliadora
4
Morro do
119
No Meio do Caminho....
B6
4
Leonel Franca
b
Ilha dos
Av Padre
erto Ferreira
Av Afrânio de Melo Franco
Cantagalo
120
O Sol.............................
C1
Caiçaras
Largo da
Rua Gilberto Cardoso
(202m)
121
Osklen...........................
E5
Rua Fadel Fadel
Memórial
105
Shopping Leblon...........122 C5
Av Epitácio Pessoa
123
Toca do Vinícius.............
F5
84
Praça Mílton
57
86
Rua Cap Cesar
Campos
Av Epitácio Pessoa
To Institúto Moreira
de Andrade
Salles (4km);
81
Rua Hum
Rua Alberto de Campos
Parque da Cidade (5km)
berto
Morro do
Rua
de
Campos
Rua Barão de Jaguaripe
Rua Itiquira
Jardim
Pavão
87
Sa
Rua Conde de
de
D'Ávila
Bernadotte
Rua Aníbal
Rua Nascimento da Silva
int
21
Rua Garcia
Alah
122
44
de Mendonça
Rua Redentor
Roman
Av Bartolomeu Mitre
LEBLON
Praça
Rua Humberto de Campos
Espanha
Rua Barão da Torre
52
58
113
104
Rua Codajás
102
Rua Farme de Amoedo
Rua Bul
1
Rua General Venâncio Flores
88
40
72
4
Praça
Av Epitácio Pessoa
66
16
27
Praça Nossa
Rua Antônio
2
Almirante
62
112
114 121
Rua Almirante Guilherm
38
Senhora
123
Parreiras
Rua Conselheiro Lafaiete
Rua Francisco Sá
eira 83
Saldanha
28
71
Rua General Artigas
55
9
de Paiva
Av Borges de Medeiros
18
35 74
h
de Paz
67
Gama
36
106
5
11
ões Carvalho
Av Ataulfo
14
5
3
19
Rua Vinícius de Moraes
Rua Visconde de Pirajá
39
85
46
41
13
Av Nossa Senhora
5
68
111
63
100
Av Visconde de Albuquerque
80
117
118
Praça Alm
70
Rua Júlio de Castilhos
de Copacabana
Rua Raul Pompéia
Praça
75
97
78
í
51
Rua Dias Ferr
60
Antero
San Mart n
Rua Carlos Góis
Belfort Vieira
Rua Prudente
59
82
94
101
43
33
92
Rua Cupertino
8
54
Rua Rainha Guilhermina
Quental
7
Teixeira de Melo
115
Rua João Lira
47
Av General
de Morais
56
22
Rua José
Linhares
77
Praça General
Durão
109
10
Rua General
IPANEMA
42
Osório
73
108
Urquiza
Rua Henrique Dumont
37
15
64
Rua Paul Redfern
116
20
48
50
79
99
Av Vieira Souto
Angélica
103
Rua Maria Quitéria
Rua Joana
93
12
Rua Raihha Elizabeth
Rua Aristídes
45
Av Delfim Moreira
Rua
Rua Rita Ludolf
6
Rua Gomes Carneiro
Espínola
95
24
23
Posto 10
Aparana
91
107
Rua Joaquim Nabuco
Posto 11
119
Posto 9
Praia do Arpoador
ARPOADOR
Rua Francisco Otaviano
34
Parque Garota
Praia de Leblon
de Ipanema
Posto 12
Posto 8
Praça do
Praia de
Morro dois
Arpoador
Diabo
Irmãos
Posto 7
6
6
A T L A N T I C
O C E A N
To Sinless (100m);
26
See Copacabana & Leme
Shalimar (100m)
Av Niemeyer
Map pp140–1
Ponta do
Arpoador
140
COPACABANA & LEME
0
500 m
0
0.3 miles
141
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
D3
C3
A5
E2
E2
A6
A5
C3
C3
E3
A5
B4
A6
A6
B4
A5
D2
D2
B6
D2
D3
B4
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
F
Ponta do Leme
(114m)
Urubu
Morro do Leme
Morro do
Praia
Vermelha
Praça A Julio
de Noronha
HortiFruti..........................................
La Trattoria......................................
Le Blé Noir.......................................
Marius..............................................
Marius Crustáceos............................
Siri Mole..........................................
Yonza..............................................
DRINKING
Allegro Bistrô Musical.....................(see 75)
Bar Luiz............................................
Copacabana Palace Poolside Bar....(see 32)
Manoel & Juaquim...........................
Sindicato do Chopp..........................
ENTERTAINMENT
Bip Bip..............................................
Espaço Sesc......................................
La Girl............................................(see 73)
Le Boy..............................................
SHOPPING
Galeria River....................................
Modern Sound.................................
Top Sound.......................................
TRANSPORT
Actual..............................................
American Airlines...........................(see 32)
Avis.................................................
Ciclovia............................................
Hertz................................................
Localiza............................................
United Airlines Office.......................
65
Praça
General
Tibúrcio
B5
C3
C3
C3
A6
A6
A5
D3
A5
A3
B4
A5
A3
D3
C3
B6
B6
A6
A4
A6
B6
C3
C3
B4
B5
B4
B4
C3
D2
B6
B5
D3
64
E
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
Station
leme
Cable Car
(235m)
LEME
Morro da
Babilônia
70
Av Pasteur
Av Portugal
Praia do Leme
Posto 1
PRAIA VERMELHA
36
See Flamengo, Botafogo & Catete Map pp142–3
Rua Gustavo Sampaio
Blame It On Rio 4 Travel...................
Copacabana Holiday........................
Copacabana Hotel Residência..........
Copacabana Palace..........................
Copacabana Praia Hotel...................
Design Hotel Portinari......................
Ducasse Rio Hotel............................
Fantastic Rio.....................................
Hotel Debret....................................
Hotel Santa Clara.............................
Hotel Toledo.....................................
Hotel Vilamar...................................
Jucati...............................................
Le Meridien......................................
Mellow Yellow Hostel......................
Orla Copacabana.............................
Parthenon Arpoador.........................
Residencial Apartt............................
Rio Backpackers...............................
Rio Guesthouse................................
Yvonne Reimann..............................
EATING
Amir.................................................
Azumi..............................................
Bakers...............................................
Botequim Informal............................
Cafeína.............................................
Capricciosa.......................................
Carretão...........................................
Cervantes.........................................
Confeitaria Colombo........................
Copa Café........................................
Galeria 1618....................................
60
Av Atlântica42
D
14
C3
A5
B4
A5
B4
C3
D3
C3
B4
B3
D3
D3
B4
D3
C3
A6
A5
B3
D3
C3
D2
B3
B4
B6
A5
D3
C3
A6
Rua Roberto
Dias Lopes
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
81
26
7
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
A T L A N T I C O C E A N
r
a
78
i
19
u
80
g
11
Campus da
Federal de
A
Rua Ronald
de Carvalho
Av Prado Júnior
Universidade
Rio de Janeiro
Túnel
Av Princesa Isabel
21
77
Posto 2
e d
Rua Lauro Müller
o
Novo
t
12
Praça
do Lido
o
o s o
x i
57
d
61
e
r
P
Av Venceslau Brás
a
50
s
C
56
o
Rua Belford
de Castro
l r
n
a
e
Roxo
1
C
G
51
Av Lauro Sodré
v
a
20
A
u
Rua Ministro Viveiros
R
30
Rua Duvivier
Rua Rodolfo
68
Dantas
Rua Barata Ribeiro
Ladeira do Leme
32
Monteiro
C
Rua Gen Goiás
15
43
Av Nossa Senhora de Copacabana
Mendes
Arcoverde
69
Praça Cardeal
8
Rua Fernando
62
Rua da Passagem
31
Posto 3
6
Rua Fernandes
Quimarães
Cardeal
Arcoverde
Av Atlântica
INFORMATION
American Express....................................................(see 32)
Andes Sol....................................................................
Banco do Brasil............................................................
Banco do Brasil............................................................
Bradesco ATM.............................................................
Bradesco ATM.............................................................
Bradesco ATM.............................................................
Canadian Consulate....................................................
Casa Universal.............................................................
Citibank.......................................................................
Drogaria Pacheco......................................................
Drogaria Pacheco......................................................
Farmácia do Leme.....................................................
Fone Rio....................................................................
HSBC........................................................................
Laundromat..............................................................
Laundromat...............................................................
Locutório...................................................................
Post Office................................................................
Riotur........................................................................
Tele Rede..................................................................
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Ciclovia.....................................................................
Clube Excursionista Carioca.......................................
Instituto Brasil-Estados Unidos...................................
Museu Histórico do Exército e Forte de Copacabana..
Zaga Bike..................................................................
SLEEPING
Acapulco...................................................................
Apa Hotel.................................................................
Atlantis Copacabana.................................................
Rua República do Peru
27
Ramos
Rua Alvaro
Correia
10
Rua Arnaldo Quintela
Rua Paula Freitas
Praça Serzedelo
Ponta de
Rua Assis
Copacabana
Bueno
Morro de
São João
(240m)
22
Gouveia
Rua Hilário de
18
3
39
Posto 4
Campos
Rua Siqueira
24
a
82
r i
Siqueira
Campos
e r r e
B
F
58
Rua Paulo Barreto
23
São João
Batista
Rua Tonelero
52
55
Rua Aires de
Saldanha
Rua Figueiredo de Magalhães
72
Rua Domingos
Rua Dona Mariana
Rua Anita
5
59
75
13
Garibaldi
a
n
a
Posto 6
b
a
9
c
a
p
jas
o
53
C
Praia de Diabo
Posto 5
e
d
Rua Sorocaba
Cemitério
ra
Rua Santa Clara
a i a
r
P
79
Praça Coronel
Rua Voluntários Pátria
54
Eugênio Franco
São João Batista
ba
Correia
Av Atlântica
Ta
Rua Raimundo
a n a b
29
a c
49
45
pa
44
Rua São
Rua General Polidoro
dos
o
C
63
Praça
33
Rua Dias da Rocha
de
67
71
37
76
48
João Batista
Rua Constante Ramos
a r
ho
46
deira
n
40
e
S
a s
34
74
ARPOADOR
La
Rua Décio Vilares
41
Edmundo
Rua 5 de Julho
No
s
Av
17
Rua Mena Barreto
Rua Siqueira Campos
73
Bittencourt
Rua Baro deIpanema
38
Miguez
4
Castilhos
25
66
Praça do
Arpoador
Túnel
Rio Leopoldo
Rua Júlio de
Rua Barata Ribeiro
2
s
16
Ponta do
Rua Maestro
Arpoador
Ulrich
o
Rua Joaquim Nabuco
e
Rua Djalma
Francisco Braga
m
35
Rua Real Grandeza
Major Vaz
e
See Ipanema, Leblon
d
L
Rua Raul Pompéia
a
Rua Conselheiro
a
COPACABANA
R Pompeu Loureiro
l
28
& Gávea Map pp138–9
Lafaiete
d
Rua Bolívar
de Ipanema
d
e
Rua Francisco Sá
A
u
Posto 7
o
o
Parque Garota
47
da Silveira
Rua Xavier
g
l
i
Pref
Túnel
Sá
a h
r
u
Lima
r
M
im
a v
r
a
Freire Alv
C
o
S
a
Rua Sousa
e
u
õe d
s
R
u h
l
M
B
Rua Pinheiro Guimares
a
u
R
Rua Francisco Otaviano
Rua Sá Ferreira
Clemente
Praia do Arpoador
Rua São
Cantagalo
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Av Rainha Elizabeth
142
FLAMENGO, BOTAFOGO & CATETE
0
500 m
0
0.3 miles
143
Rua Hapirú
A
B
C
D
40
E
F
G
H
Ru
Rua Falet
a Cruzeir
INFORMATION
EATING
See Centro, Cinelândia & Lapa Map pp144–5
o
Rua Andrade
50
Pertence
Argentinian Embassy................... 1 D4
Adega do Valentim....................33 D6
Lisboa
Túnel Santa Barbara
Rua Silveria Martins
2
Banco do Brasil.............................. E1
34
Armazem do Chopp...................
E3
19
21
Rua Falet
Morro da
1
Catete
Banco do Brasil............................3 D4
35
Belmonte....................................
E2
1
Nova Cintra
29
15 27
Rua Ferreira Viana
Bradesco ATM.............................4 D5
Botequim Informal...................(see 58)
(267m)
e
Rua Baro de
5
Bradesco ATM.............................. B6
36
Carême......................................
B6
Rua Bento
30
d
Rua
Rua Corrêa Dutra
Bradesco ATM.............................6 D5
37
Catete Grill.................................
E1
E
o
s
z li
26
7
Eurogames.................................... E1
38
Churrascaria Majórica.................
E2
r
o
e
se
7
r
t
u
u
Rua Arturo
Livraria PrefácioINF..................(see 43)
39
Cobal de Humaitá......................
B6
o
n
Rua Buarque
Petrópolis
M
V
Bernardes
a
g
31
8
Post Office...................................
D5
40
Estação República.......................
E1
S
i
is
de Macedo
r
c
32
28
37
o
Post Office..................................9 D4
Garota da Urca..........................41 G4
n
Mariante
2
R o d
ti
Rua do Catete
UK Embassy................................
E2
Lamas.........................................
E2
e
n
10
42
Rua 2 de
G
Dezembro
Largo do
Livraria Prefácio.........................43 D5
Parque
12
Rua Pereira da Silva
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
44
Porcão Rio's................................
F3
Rua
Machado
Guinle
CATETE
56
Casa de Dança Carlinhos de
45
Stravaganze...............................
B6
Jesus......................................11 D6
Yorubá...................................... 46 D6
Rua
Rua Machado Assis
Rua Gago Coutinho
Felipe
Praia do
12
Centro Cultural Telemar.............
E2
Morro So
Erfurt
Largo do Machado
Av Infante Dom Henrique
João
Flamengo
13
Largo do Boticário......................
A3
DRINKING
Judas Tadeu
lexandrino
FLAMENGO
A
24
(246m)
14
Museu Carmen Miranda.............
E4
47
Aurora.......................................
B6
2
Rua Barão do
Pref
Rua das Laranjeiras
2
Flamengo
22
Museu da República................(see 19)
Bar Urca....................................48 G4
Rua
irante
38
Praia do Flamengo
Museu de Folclórico Edson
Miam Miam.............................. 49 D6
Rua Conde de Baependi
Salvador
15
Carneiro..................................
E1
50
Mike's Haus...............................
C1
ua Alm
59
Rua São
R
42
Rua Sen
Ot oni
Parque do
Museu do Índio.........................16 C5
57
Rua Este ves Júnior
Praça São
Vergueiro
10
Rua Ipiranga
Salvador
Flamengo
Museu Internacional de Arte Naïf do
ENTERTAINMENT
Rua Dr Julio
17
Brasil......................................
A3
Casa da Matriz..........................51 C6
Rua Alice
18
Museu Villa-Lobos.....................
C5
52
Clan Café...................................
B3
Rua
35
Mário
19
Palácio do Catete........................
E1
53
Espaço Unibanco de Cinema......
D5
34
Por
20
Pão de Açúcar............................
H5
54
Fluminense Football Stadium.....
D3
tela
Rua Paulo IV
LARANJEIRAS
R
Vergueiro
21
Parque do Catete........................
E1
55
Praia Vermelha...........................
F6
u
Rua Alice
Rua Coelho Neto
a
54
44
22
Parque do Flamengo...................
E2
56
São Luiz......................................
E2
Ba
Rua Paissandu
r
Pista Cláudio Coutinho..............23 G5
Severyna....................................57 D2
o
Rua Pinheiro Machado
de
24
Trilharte Ecoturismo....................
E2
P
Rua Marquês
e
Praça David
de Abrantes
SHOPPING
COSME VELHO
tr
Rua Senador
ó
das Laranjeiras Ben Gurion
p
Rua
o
Rua Barão
SLEEPING
Botafogo Praia Shopping...........58 D4
lis
3
de Icarai
a
25
El Misti Hostel............................
D5
Pé de Boi...................................59 D2
3
Flamengo
v
13
Rua Cardoso Júnior
26
Hotel Caxambu...........................
E1
60
Rio Sul........................................
E6
da
ú
Rua
Morro Mundo
i
27
Hotel Ferreira Viana....................
E1
52
Cosme
Novo (128m)
V
28
Hotel Monterrey........................
D1
TRANSPORT
Velho
antanhe
Rua Juçana
17
Corcovado
C
Instituto
29
Hotel Riazor................................
E1
61
Buses to Centro or Zona Sul........
F5
a
Train Station
Rua Jaguá
Fernandes
Morro Cara
d
30
Imperial Hotel.............................
E1
L
u
i
s
de Cão
Rua Mundo Novo
Rua Baro do Itambi
Figueira
31
Mengo Palace Hotel...................
E1
f
(72m)
o
o
r
32
Pousada Favelinha......................
B1
P
r
Av Osvaldo Cruz
r
Henrique
Rua General Glicério
a
Rua Osvaldo
1
o
Ru
M
Seabra
Dom
Av Rui Barbosa
14
Rua Marquês Olinda
Infante
Av
B a í a d e G u a n a b a r a
Mirante
Unidas
Dona Marta
Rua Couto
48
(363m)
Fernandes
Botafogo
Alves
Naçoes
Alam
Barreto
de
4
Luis
4
dos
eda Floriano
To Cristo
9
Praia
João
Pereira
Praia de
Redentor (500m)
Rua Assunção
Rua Bambina
Muniz
Av
Fora
Praia do
Av
arta
M
Botafogo
Enseada
Rua Admirante Gomes
Rua
41
de Botafogo
Rua Otávio Correira
Parque Nacional
Praça
3
Rua Barão de
da Tijuca
Radial Sul
Praia da
Est Mirante Dona
Lucerna
58
Rua Eduardo
Urca
Rua Cândido Gaffré
Rua Prof Alfredo Gomes
Guinle
Av São Sebastião
4
URCA
Pão de Açúcar
Rua Guilherme Guinle
al Cantuária
(395m)
Rua 19 Fevereiro
Av Reporter
rech
BOTAFOGO
Rua São Clemente
25
Ma
20
53
Nestor
a
Morro da
Ru
Túnel André Rebouças
Botafogo
Rua Sorocaba
Urca (220m)
Rua Alfredo
M
16
5
o
Rua Ramon Franco
Chaves
r
5
Rua da Matriz Rua das Palmeiras
43
Túnel do
Pasmado
eira
Rua Osório
Portela
Almeida
Rua Martins Ferreira
rigues
Rua
8
eu
HUMAITÁ
Rod
18
Av Pasteur
Morro do
Rua Miranda
Rua Paolo Barreto
Paulino
Av Portugal
Rua David
Bartom
Rua Conde de Irajá
Valverde
Pasmado
Rua da Passagem
Rua Dona Mariana
Universidade
Rua Cesário
Campista
Álvaro
Rua
Federal de Rio
Praça
Fernandes
Euzebio
Rua Marques
Rua Sorocaba
de Janeiro
Alvim
Severiano
Oliveira
Rua Urbano
Santos
Rua São João Batista
61
Rua João Afonso
Rua Voluntários da Pátria
Rua Prof
Instituto e Teatro
6
Av Venceslau Brás
23
Rua Real Grandeza
Rua General
Benjamin
Cobal
51
Constant
Praça
46
Universidade
39
Rua Gen Polidoro
Rio de Janeiro
General
Praia
Rua Viúva
Rua Fernandes
Quimarães
Tibúrcio
Vermelha
Lacerda
5
Rua Capitão Salomão
Rua Henrique
de Novaes
Barreto
Rua Elvira
Rua Gen Goés
PRAIA VERMELHA
Rua General
Av Lauro Sodré
Cable-Car
Dionísio
Machado
Rua Arnaldo Quintela
33
Monteiro
Rua Assis
49
Station
47
Rua Visconde
Rua Mena
Bueno
de Caravelas 36
11
Rua Lauro Müller
55
45
6
60
Morro da Babilônia
6
Rua M
Rua Visconde da Silva
Rua General Polidoro
(235m)
Sobrinho
Rua Humaitá
Cemitério São
Rua Álvaro Ramos
Rua Pinheiro Guimares
João Batista
acedo
See Copacabana &
Leme Map pp140–1
144
CENTRO, CINELÂNDIA & LAPA
0
500 m
0
0.3 miles
145
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
C4
C6
B7
B7
C5
B5
B7
C7
B7
D7
D3
D5
C3
D3
B7
C6
C6
C6
C4
C5
B6
C6
B4
D5
B4
C6
B6
D5
B5
B7
B6
D3
D4
D5
D5
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
85
86
87
88
89
90
91
92
93
94
95
96
97
98
99
100
101
102
103
104
105
106
107
F
Centro, Cinelândia & Lapa
Aeroporto
Santos Dumont
Ilha
Fiscal
B a í a d e
32
Confeitaria Colombo.............
Encontras Cariocas.................
Espírito Santa.........................
Jasmin Mango.......................
Marizé Gourmet....................
Nova Capela..........................
Sansushi.................................
Severyna da Glória.................
Sobrenatural..........................
Taberna da Glória..................
Tempeh.................................
DRINKING
Amarelinho...........................
Bar Occidental.......................
Boteco Casual........................
Santa Arte...........................(see 65)
Tumbao de Malevo................
ENTERTAINMENT
Beco do Rato.........................
Cabaret Casanova.................
Carioca da Gema...................
Centro Cultural CariocaEnt....(see 8)
Cine Ideal..............................
Circo Voador.........................
Democráticus.........................
Estação Paço........................(see 42)
Estrela da Lapa......................
Estudantina Café....................
Fundição ProgressoEnt.........(see 28)
Odeon BR.............................
Rio Scenarium........................
Semente................................
Star Club................................
SHOPPING
Arlequin...............................(see 42)
Feira de Música...................
Feira do Rio Antigo..............
La Vereda.............................
Plano B................................
Praça do Mercado Feira de
Antiguidades...................
TRANSPORT
Dantur Passagens..................(see 7)
Menezes Cortes Bus
Teminal...........................
TAM....................................
Varig...................................
G u a n a b a r a
D3
E4
A8
D3
D5
C5
A7
C4
D3
C4
D3
C4
C7
B4
C5
D3
A7
A8
B6
A7
D7
C7
B7
C6
B7
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
Av General Justo
E
36
Praça 22
de Abril
34
Praia do Flamengo
Ferry to Ilha de Paquetá
Ferry to Niterói
Praça
Marechal
Âncora
Enseada da Glória
Glória
Marina de
60
Rua
Aguinaldo
Rua Mal
EATING
Al Khayam.............................
AlbaMar.................................
Aprazível...............................
Arte Temperada....................
Ateliê Odeon.........................
Bar Brasil................................
Bar do Mineiro.......................
Bar Luiz..................................
Bistro do Paço......................(see 42)
Brasserie Rosário....................
Café do Rodrigues.................
Cais do Oriente.....................
Casa Cavé.............................
Casa da Suíça........................
Cedro do Líbano....................
Municipal
104
Misericórdia
Av F Roosevelt
12
Praça Mercado
Santa Casa da
Misericórdia
Av Churchill
38
Praça Itália
da Ilha Fiscal
Saveiros Tours................................(see 34)
Teatro Municipal..............................
Travessa do Comércio......................
SLEEPING
Cama e Café....................................
Casa Áurea......................................
Casa Mango Mango.........................
Castelinho 38...................................
Hotel Glória.....................................
Hotel Turístico..................................
Mama Ruisa.....................................
Rio Hostel........................................
Solar de Santa..................................
1
Doca do
44
Mercado
Av Presidente
Russel
Praça XV
Antônio Carlos
54
Rua do
Rua Jardel Jercolis
de Novembro
E7
C2
E4
B6
D6
B7
D5
B4
D3
B6
D6
C5
D5
B4
Palaçio
e
a r
Ilha das Cabras
D
u
Av Beira Mar
iq
o
CASTELO
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
r
h
42
n
19
e
n
H
e
Rua de Santa Luzia
S
Ferry to
m
o
Rua Debret
D
Av Presidente Wilson
e
nt
GLÓRIA
a
59
a
nf I
l
s
s
v
100
A
107
sse
o
27
86
105
Av Erasmo Braga
do Ru
N
Cais di Pharoux
Rua Manuel
de Carvalho
106
e
Rua do Mercado 83
18
Av Graça
r a
M
d
Av Presidente Kubitschek
49
62
a
ir
69
Aranha
Av Rio Branco
Be
v
A
Rua
Comércio
Rua São Jose
d
67
R Pedro Lessa
L
arço
84
Praça
16
40
63
Deodoro
Travessa do
Rua México
46
Praça
6
de M
Rua Araújo Porto Alegre
Gandhi
23
Mahatma
82
29
Rua do Carmo
de Maio
14 96
Praça
Paris
13
Rua Primeiro
4
Av Nilo Peçanha
48
Av
Av Augusto Severo
Glória
17
Barroso
Passeio
55
Público
2
Av Almirante
Cinelândia
Alvim
88
35
7
Lapa
Rua
R Álvaro
Rua da Glória
Largo da
30
68
Rua do Ouvidor Rua do Rosário
25
Manuel de
Carvalho
CINELÂNDIA
Rua do Passeio
10
da Veiga
Rua da Lapa
Rua da Alfândega
Rua da Assembléia
3
11
13
Rua Senador Dantas
Rua Evaristo
71
CENTRO
Rua Sete de Setembro
Largo da
Carioca
73
80
Macuco Rio........................................(see 34)
Marlin Yacht Tours...............................
Mosteiro de São Bento.........................
Museo Histórico Nacional.....................
Museu Chácara do Céu........................
Museu de Arte Moderna......................
Museu de Arte Sacra..........................(see 22)
Museu do Bonde..................................
Museu Nacional de Belas Artes............
Núcleo de Dança..................................
Paço Imperial.......................................
Parque das Ruinas................................
Parque do Flamengo............................
Petrobras Building................................
Praça Floriano......................................
Real Gabinete Português de Leitura......
Rua da Quintanda
Praça
Pio X
Rua Teixeira de Freitas
21
Rua Visconde Inhaúma
C
Rua Lélio Gama
Rua Taylor
Carioca
70
31
89
5
Américo
C3
C5
C5
D3
B4
C5
C6
D3
C5
D7
C3
C4
E2
B7
15
45
Pier
To Pier Mauá
(100m)
Rua Miguel Couto
Rua Joaquim Silva
Rua Pedro
Mauá
Morro de
São Bento
Rua Gonçalves Dias
Rua Dom Gerardo
20
Arcos do Lapa
98
26
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
Rua Pinto
Rua Cândido Mendes
Rua Urugaiana
Martins
Veiga
a
Av Rio Branco Rua
Rua Teófilo Otoni
66
92
s e r
22
28
he
de Barros
Rua Mairink
Praça
T
a
LAPA
o
Uruguiana
Monte
Castelo
t n
a
S
de
Ld
94
d
77
l
Beneditinos
Largo de
San Francisco
de Paula
i
Av República
Praça
Mauá
85
g
74
s
e
em
do Paraguai
m
64
n
o
o
Rua Arce
91
57
r
e
90
r
H
a
m
Rua da Constituiço
B
r
78
e
Rua dos Andradas
8
bre
e
Rua Benjamin Constant
ão
Rua Silvio Romero
H
d
Rua Santo Amaro
o
Rua dos Arcos
a
J
Praça
Major
Valô
47
Rua Pedro I
s
u
i
a
o
R
d
D
Rua da Conceição
Rua Luís de Camões
Av República do Chile
Praça
a u
S
Ld Rua Major
Daemon
103
R
o t n
a
Artes
s
Tiradentes
43
o
Cabral
Rua da Carioca
d
Rua do Riachuelo
93
Tr das Belas
Av Passos
24
52
o
Cristina
Rua Santa
Av Presidente Vargas
Rua do Lavradio
ante
in
Rua Gonçalves
o
101
polis
d
ar
h
i
n
ó
n r
Ledo
B
t
Rua Murtinho No
e
Passos
r
56
95
37
Almir
B
Av Mem de Sá
u
41
M
Alexandrino
a
a
SAÚDE
97
u
u
Av Gomes Freire
m
qui
a
o J
Rua
R
e Castro
da Bola
Rua da
Alfândega
Rua de Buenos Aires
Rua Regente
R
75
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
AS Divers...............................................
Bonde to Santa Teresa............................
Catedral Metropolitana..........................
Centro Cultural do Banco do Brasil.........
Centro de Arte Hélio Oiticica..................
Centro Excursionista Brasileira................
Escadaria Selarón....................................
Espaço Cultural da Marinha....................
Fundição Progresso................................
Igreja de NS da Glória do Outeiro..........
Igreja de NS de Candelária......................
Igreja São Francisco da Penitência &
Convento Santo Antônio.....................
Ilha Fiscal................................................
Largo do Guimarães................................
Rua Coelho
Rua Sacadura
Rua do Jogo
Feijó
Rua Teres
Rua dos Inválidos
Ld PedroAntônio
72
79
102
Rua Sen Pompeu
D5
C4
C5
C4
C3
D3
C4
B4
A7
C4
C5
D5
C4
D5
C3
D3
C4
D4
D5
81
Rua Senhor dos
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
SAARA
do Libano
blica
33
39
76
Cais do Porto
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
Av Barão Tefé
Rua Camerino
99
58
Vargas
Rua Repu
See Flamengo, Botafogo & Catete Map pp142–3
Rua André Cavalcânti
87
Presidente
Rua Triunfo
Praça dos
Rua Almirante
Alexandrino
Estivadores
Rua Ubaldino Amaral
53
65
Rua Aprazível
Praça Jornal
do Comércio
Praça da República
Rua do Senado
50
Largo do
61
Rua Carlos Sampaio
Guimarães
Rua Alexandre Mackenzie
FÁTIMA
51
Campo de
Santana
Rua Áurea
Av Rodrigues Alves
a
e
d
r
l S
a
e
Av Marechal Floriano
b
9
A
C
a
Rua do Rezende
t
s
me
Av Venezuela
i o Le
Rua Monte Alegre
SANTA TERESA
Rua
To Largo das
Neves (500m);
Cafe Neves (500m)
Rio Branco
See São Cristóvão & Maracanã Map pp146–7
INFORMATION
Australian Consulate....................
Banco 24 Horas...........................
Banco do Brasil.............................
Bar das Artes............................(see 42)
Bradesco ATM.............................
Camping Clube do Brasil..........(see 11)
Casa Aliança................................
Casa França-Brasil........................
Central Fone................................
Centro Cultural Carioca................
Centro Cultural Laurinda Santos
Lobo........................................
Citibank.....................................
Cyber Café Fundição Progresso..(see 28)
Editora Geográfica J Paulini........
French Consulate.......................
HSBC.........................................
HSBC ........................................
Livraria da Travessa....................
Livraria da Travessa..................(see 68)
Main Post Office........................
Nova Livraria Leonardo da Vinci..
Riotur Centro.............................
US Consulate.............................
Rua Visconde do
Rua da Relação
Reis
To Dois Irmãos (3km)
Rua Aaro
Central
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
146
SÃO CRISTÓVÃO & MARACANÃ
0
500 m
0
0.3 miles
147
To Estádio
Rua Sen Alencar
Av Brasil
de São Januário
A
Cidade do Samba
Rua General
B
C
D
Rua Bela
E
F
G
H
Av Venezuela
Rua Leoner
Rua Praça Cel
SAÚDE
Rua Curuzu
Baía de
Guanabara
Cais do Porto
Correia
Assunção
Rua São Januário
Porto
Rua Santo Cristo
Rua do Propósito
Av Prof Pereira Reis
Argolo
Rua 25 de
Rua Rivadaria
Saca
de Moura
Margo
1
Rua Gen Almério
Rua
Esberard
Rua Pedro Ernesto
dura
1
Rua Carneiro de
GAMBOA
Rua do
Campos
Rua da
Cab
Rua Benedito Otoni
Livramento
Igrejinha
Rua Cordeiro
ral
Rua Sousa e Silva
São Cristóvão
Lima
Rua da Gamboa
1
Av Rodrigues Alves
E
da Graça
Rua do Livamento
m
ramento
Rua Escobar
a
Liv
n
Rua Santos
Cemitério
Rua Equador
Rua do Monte
do
Rua Tuiuti
ci
dos Ingleses
Cabrita
Rua General Bruce
p
Campo de
Ld
Túnel João Ricardo
a
Vias Elavadas Prof Eng Rufino de Almeida Pizarro
Igreja
Cel
ç
ã
10
Praça dos
o
Santo Cristo
Rua da
Cristóvão
Estivadores
Rua
Liberdade
Rua Cardoso
Ld do Barroso
mpo
de São
Av Cidade de Lima
Rua da Visconde
Ca
Praça Marechal
Marinho
Rua Alexandre Mackenzie
Hermes SANTO CRISTO
São Cristóvão &
Rua João
Av Francisco Bicalho
Av Francisco Bicalho
Ld do Faria
Rua da América
Rua Baro daGamboa
Ricardo
Maracanã
Rua São Cristóvão
Gávea
Rua Camerino
Rua Inhomirim
Rua São Luis da Gonzaga
Rua Sabino
Rua Santo Cristo
SÃO CRISTÓVÃO
Rua General Luís M Morais
Rua Vidal Negreiros
Rua Bento Ribeiro
Rua Orestes
Rua Sinimbu
Rua
Viera
Lopes Ferraz
Ave Rotary Internacional
Av do Exército
Rua Baro de
So Felix
Rua Chaves Faria
Rua
Rua Antõnio de
2
Noronha
Capiberibe
Rua Ebroíno
2
Rua Pedro
Rua Senador Pompeu
Rua Cadete
Rua do
Paiva
Ulisses Veiga
Rua Sara
Pinto
Rua
Canal do
Uruguai
Rua do
Sinimbu
Parque
Mangue
Rua Carlos Gomes
Rua da América
Rua Euclides da Cunha
Av Dom Pedro II
Pompeu
Dom Pedro
II Train Station
e inrado
Rua Senador
Av Marechal Floriano
M
D
ua
Central
R
Rua Nabuco de Freitas
Rua São Cristóvão
Rua Pedro Alves
2
Rua Moreira
5
Praça da República
Pinto
Praça General
Rua Pereira FrancoPedra
6
Rua Almirante
Av Presidente Vargas
Baltazar
Campus da
Rua General Caldwell
Campo de
See Sambódromo Map pp114–115
Universidade
Santana
Rua Francisco Eugênio
Rio de
Praça Noronha
Janeiro
Santos
Rua
Rua José
3
Viaduto São Sebastião
Rua de Santana
3
G
Eugênio
e
Cathedral
n He
Hospital
rcula
Rua M
Souza
no
Rua Marquês de
G
7
om
Aguiar
es
São Cristóvão
Rua Carmo
Rua Benedito Hipólito
Rua Carl
Pombal
Av Osvaldo Aranha
Av Presidente Vargas
arquês do Sapucaí
Praça Onze
Neto
Av Pres Castelo Branco
Rua Sen Furiado
Rua Mata Machado
os Sampaio
Rua Pres Barroso
Rua Afonso Cavalcanti
Rua Aníbal
Senado
Praca da
Benévolo
Rua Frei Caneca
Bandeira
Rua Sta Maria
Rua do
Av M
Rua Joaquim
Rua Julio Carmo
em de Sá
3
Rua Ibituruna
Rua Rodrigues Santos
Coelho
Rua Riachuelo
Praça Cruz
Rua Machado
Rua Neri Pinheiro Rua Corrêa Vasques
Vermelha
Rua Br de Iguatemi
Av Salvador Sá
Rua Professor Eurico Rabelo
rro
Rua do Matoso
Estácio
4
Rua Senhor do Matozinhos
a
Rua Paula Matos
Rua Frei Caneca
Palhares
4
CIDADE
Rua Washington Luis
4
Sá
Canab
Rua Visc de Cairu
Rua João PauloI
NOVA
Barros
Túnel
en
Ru
G
Martins da Sá
Rua do Rezende
Av Maracanã
a
Rua João
Rua Carolina a
Ru
MARACANÃ
Rua Prof Gabiso
Ru
Rua Mariz
Paulo I
Rua Estác io de
Rua Morais e Silva
Reidner
d
a
o
Av Paula Sousa
ESTÁCIO
d
Rua Lúcio de
C
o
Rua São Francisco Xavier
s
Mendonça
a
See Centro, Cinelândia
& Lapa Map pp144–5
t
C
Crespo
u
FÁTIMA
m
o
b
q
u
Rua
Rua Vicente Licinio
í
e
9
Ca
do Vale
i
r
r
Cama e Café (closed)
Rua São Francisco Xavier
Rua Gonçalves
o
d
Rua Aristides Lobo
Rua Prof Quintino
s
e
Rua São Carlos
Largo das Neves
a
Rua São Cláudio
l
Rua
S
artins Pena
e
Av Engenheiro Freyssinet
Rua São Roberto
Erven
Progresso
b
Rua
Rua M
Zinco Laurindo Rabelo
Cemitério do
Padre
a
Miguelino
st
Afonso Pena
Van
Catumbi
Rua Maia de Lacerda
i
o
Rua
Leme
Rua Alfonso Pena
Rua do
Satamine
5
CATUMBI
5
R Major Freritas
Rua Itapiru
Rua do Oriente
Rua Dr
Rua Barão Mesquita
Rua Alzira Brandão
Rua
São Francisco
Rua Alameda Cochrane
Av Heitor Beltrão
Rua Pereira de Siqueira
Gonçalves
Xavier
RIO COMPRIDO
Rua Dr Agra
Calvalcante
Rua Monte Alegre
Rua Visc de Figueirdo
Rua Carmela Dutra
Rua Marquêz de Valença
iré
Rua
Rua Cons Zenha
Amb
Resende
Rua Haddock Lobo
M iguel
Rua
Rua Áurea
Túnel Santa Bárbara
Reis
5
Museu Nacional.................................. B3
Lima
Morro de Santos
SANTA
Rua Araújo Pena
Rua Prof Gabizo
Rua Delgado de
Rua Azevedo
Rodrigues
Av Heitor Beltrão
INFORMATION
Rua Aguiar
6
Quinta da Boa Vista............................ B3
TERESA
Rua Felix da Cunha
Carvalho
Riotur...............................................(see 3)
7
Sambódromo...................................... F3
Rua
Rua Aprazível
Navarro
Rua
Rua Costa Ferraz
Rua Aaro
Conde
Riotur.............................................(see 10)
Sports Museum................................(see 3)
Rua Campos da Paz
Bonfim
Universidade da Pesca.......................8 D6
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
8
Rua Conde Bonfim
1
Fiera Nordestina................................. C1
DRINKING
6
Rua Barão de Itapagipe
6
2
Jardim Zoológico................................
A3
Café Neves........................................9 G5
Rua da Estrela
Rua Eliseu
Visconti
3
Maracanã Football Stadium................
A4
Rua Itapiru
TIJUCA
Museu da Fauna..............................(see 5)
TRANSPORT
See Flamengo, Botafogo & Catete Map pp142–3
Museu do Carnaval............................4 G4
10
Rodoviária Novo Rio.........................
D1
148 R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • S i g h t s
l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m
l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m
R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • S i g h t s 149 RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
(Continued from page 128)
dents and favela kids, while the area between
MUSEU DO ÍNDIO
The first ascends 220m to Morro da Urca. From
the Copacabana Palace and Rua Fernando
Featuring multimedia exhibitions on Brazil’s
here, you can see Baía de Guanabara and the
Sat & Sun) features a museum, a praça dos tel-
Mendes is the gay and transvestite section,
northern tribes, the small Museu do Índio (Map
winding coastline. On the ocean side of the
escópios (plaza of telescopes) and two state-
known as the Stock or Stock Market – easily
pp142-3 ; %2286 8899; www.museudoindio.org.br; Rua das
mountain is Praia Vermelha, in a small, calm
of-the-art operating domes, each capable of
recognized by the rainbow flag. Young foot-
Palmeiras 55, Botafogo; admission R$3, free Sun; h9:30am-
bay. Morro da Urca has its own restaurant,
projecting over 6000 stars on its walls. Several
ball and futevôlei (volleyball played without
5:30pm Tue-Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun) provides an excellent
souvenir shops, a playground, an outdoor
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
times a week, there are guided observations
hands) players hold court near Rua Santa
introduction to the economic, religious and
theater and a helipad (for helicopter tours, see
(R$6 extra), several through the far-reaching
Clara. Posts 5 and 6 are a mix of favela kids
social life of Brazil’s indigenous people.
p164 ). Beneath the shadow of Morro da Urca,
telescopes. Periodically, the Planetário
and Carioca retirees, while the beach next to
the narrow Praia Vermelha has superb views of
plays host to live concerts. Its hypermodern
the Forte de Copacabana is the unofficial posto
MUSEU VILLA-LOBOS
the rocky coastline from the shore. Its coarse
Museu do Universo (Universe Museum) houses
de pescadores (fishermen’s post). In the morn-
Housed in a century-old building, the mod-
sand, unlike that of any other beach in Rio,
permanent exhibitions.
ing, you can buy the fresh catch of the day.
est Museu Villa-Lobos (%2266 3845; Rua Sorocaba
gives the beach the name vermelha (red).
The beach is lit at night and there are po-
200, Botafogo; admission free; h10am-5:30pm Mon-Fri) is
The second cable car goes up to Pão de
Copacabana & Leme
lice in the area, but it’s still not wise to walk
dedicated to the memory of Brazil’s greatest
Açúcar. At the top, the city unfolds beneath
Framed by mountains and deep blue sea, Rio’s
there after dark – stay on the hotel side of
classical composer, Heitor Villa-Lobos. Here
you, with Corcovado mountain and Cristo
most beautiful beach curves 4.5km from end
Av Atlântica if you take a stroll. Av NS de
you’ll find personal items, scores and musical
Redentor off to the west, and Copacabana
to end. No longer a symbol of Rio’s glam,
Copacabana is also dangerous – watch out
instruments, including the piano on which
Beach to the south. If the breathtaking heights
Copacabana is a fascinating but chaotic place,
on weekends, when the shops are closed and
Villa-Lobos composed. The gardens were
unsteady you, a drink stand serves caipirinhas
its art-deco buildings, aging beachfront hotels
few locals are around.
designed by landscape architect Burle Marx.
or cerveja (beer). The two-stage cable cars
and tree-lined sidestreets form the backdrop
depart every 30 minutes.
to a wildly democratic mix of tourists, elderly
MUSEU HISTÓRICO DO EXÉRCITO E FORTE
Urca
Those who’d rather take the long way to
middle-class Cariocas, and favela dwellers
DE COPACABANA
The tranquil, shady streets of Urca offer a
the summit should sign up with one of the
(who live in the hillsides surrounding the
Built in 1914, on the promontory of the
pleasant escape from the urban bustle of other
granite-hugging climbing tours offered by
neighborhood). Despite its faults (crime for
former Our Lady of Copacabana chapel, the
parts of the city. An eclectic mix of build-
various outfits in Rio (see p159 ).
one), the neighborhood has its charms – old-
Forte de Copacabana (Copacabana Fort)
ing styles and manicured gardens lines its
school botecos (small, open-air bars), eclectic
was one of Rio’s premier defenses against
streets, with local residents strolling among
PISTA CLÁUDIO COUTINHO
restaurants, vibrant street life, and the hand-
attack. You can still see its original features,
them. Along the sea wall, which forms the
A paved 2km path, Pista Cláudio Coutinho (Map
some beach still entrance some visitors.
including walls up to 12m thick, defended by
northwestern perimeter of Pão de Açúcar,
pp142-3 ; h6am-sunset) winds along the south-
The name Copacabana comes from a small
Krupp cannons. The several floors of exhib-
fishermen cast for dinner as couples lounge
ern contour of Morro da Urca. It’s a lush
Bolivian village on Lake Titicaca. Historians
its in the Museu Histórico do Exército e Forte de
beneath palm trees, taking in views of Baía
area, shaded by trees, with the waves crash-
believe a statue of the Virgin Mary (Our Lady
Copacabana (Map pp140-1 ; %2521 1032; cnr Av Atlân-
de Guanabara and Cristo Redentor off in the
ing on the rocks below. Keep an eye out for
of Copacabana) was brought to Rio and con-
tica & Rua Francisco Otaviano, Copacabana; admission R$4;
distance. Tiny Praia Vermelha, in the south,
families of small micos – capuchin monkeys
secrated inside a small chapel near Arpoador.
h10am-4pm Tue-Sun), tracing the early days of
has one of Rio’s finest beach views. A lovely
with ringed tails. About 300m along the path,
Copacabana remained a small fishing village
the Portuguese colony to the mid-19th cen-
walking trail begins from here.
there’s a small unmarked trail that leads up
until Túnel Velho opened in 1891, connect-
tury, aren’t the most tastefully done, but the
Although it was the site of one of the first
to Morro da Urca. Pão de Açúcar can also be
ing Copacabana with the rest of the city. The
view alone warrants a visit. There’s a lovely
Portuguese garrisons in the region, almost
climbed – but it’s not recommended without
construction of the neoclassical Copacabana
café overlooking Copacabana.
300 years elapsed before Urca developed into
climbing gear.
Palace hotel in 1923 heralded Copacabana’s
a residential neighborhood. Today it holds the
golden era as a tropical getaway for the rich
Botafogo
distinction of being one of the safest and – in
Flamengo
and fabulous. Copacabana remained Rio’s
A largely middle-class residential area, Bota-
spite of Pão de Açúcar being in its midst – least
Flamengo was once Rio’s finest residential dis-
gem until the 1970s, when the area began the
fogo lacks the sensuality of Ipanema and the
discovered by foreign visitors.
trict, but lost its glitter after the tunnel to Co-
fall into decline.
decadence of Copacabana, but it’s one of Rio’s
pacabana opened in 1904. Today, Flamengo
most traditional neighborhoods. It boasts
PÃO DE AÇÚCAR
maintains its largely residential roots. Along
COPACABANA & LEME BEACH
small museums, excellent theaters, quaint
Seen from the peak of Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf
tree-shaded sidewalks, old-school restaurants
A magnificent confluence of land and sea,
bookstores, neighborhood bars and a welcome
Mountain; Map pp142-3 ; %2546 8400; Praça General Ti-
and historic bars lie beside fragrant juice bars
the long, scalloped beach of Copacabana and
shortage of high-rise buildings.
búrcio, Urca; adult/child R$35/17.50; h8am-10pm), Rio
and Música Popular Brasileira–playing inter-
Leme (Map pp140–1 ) always has a flurry of
The area attained prominence in the late
is undoubtedly the most beautiful city in the
net cafés. Flamengo also boasts the Parque do
activity stretching its length: overamped foot-
1800s when the Portuguese court arrived in
world. There are many good times to make
Flamengo, which fronts a scenic beach (too
ballers singing their team’s anthem, Cariocas
Brazil. Dom João VI’s wife, Carlota Joaquina,
the ascent, but sunset on a clear day is the
polluted for swimming).
and tourists lining up for caipirinhas at kiosks,
had a country villa built in Botafogo with
most rewarding.
favela kids showing off their football skills,
convenient access to Baía de Guanabara, one
A visit to Pão de Açúcar is a must, but if you
PARQUE DO FLAMENGO
and beach vendors picking their way through
of her favorite bathing spots. With royalty
can, avoid it from about 10am to 11am and
The result of a landfill project that leveled
the mass of bronzed bodies.
established in the area, many mansions were
2pm to 3pm, which is when most tourist buses
the São Antônio hill in 1965, Parque do Fla-
As in Ipanema, each group stakes out its
constructed, some of which still stand – as
arrive. Avoid cloudy days as well. Two cable
mengo (Map pp142–3 and Map pp144–5 )
stretch of sand. Leme is a mix of older resi-
schools, theaters and cultural centers.
cars connect to the summit, 396m above Rio.
now spreads all the way from downtown Rio
150 R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • S i g h t s
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through Glória, Catete and Flamengo, and on
gazes out over Rio, a placid expression on his
around to Botafogo. Cyclists and rollerbladers
well-crafted face. The mountain rises straight
RIO’S FAVELAS: BEYOND THE BANG BANG
glide along the paths winding through the
up from the city to 710m, and at night, the
Residents of Rio de Janeiro’s favelas (shantytowns) face enormous obstacles. Many families live
park, while the many football fields and sports
brightly lit, 38m-high statue is visible from
in communities lacking basic essentials (sewers, medical clinics, roads). Children attend some of
courts are framed against the sea. On Sunday
nearly every part of the city – all 1145 tons of
the city’s worst schools (many indeed drop out). The long bus commute to work can often take
and holidays, the avenues through the park
the open-armed redeemer.
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
hours on traffic-snarled roads for a salary that may not even meet living expenses. There’s also
are closed (from 7am to 6pm), bringing a
The view from the top of Corcovado pro-
the social stigma of living in the slums, some of which are run by local drug lords.
welcome calm to the verdant park.
vides a spectacular panorama of Rio and its
Yet it isn’t all gloom for Rio’s estimated one million favela residents. In the last two decades,
Designed by famous Brazilian landscaper
surroundings. Corcovado lies within the
locally managed organizations have begun appearing in favelas across the city. While small in
Burle Marx (who also landscaped Brasília), the
Parque Nacional da Tijuca. You can get there
scale, these non-profit organizations offer residents the chance to learn new skills, gain a sense
park features some 170,000 trees of 300 differ-
by car or taxi (taxi drivers typically charge
of pride, and give something often in short supply: hope.
ent species. In addition there are several muse-
around R$60 for return trips with waiting
For many poor favela children, the Grupo Cultural Afro Reggae (GCAR) is a lifeline. In 1997,
ums in the park, including the Museu de Arte
time), but the best way is to go up in the cog
in the Vigário Geral favela, GCAR opened a cultural centre offering workshops in music, theater,
Moderna and the Museu Carmen Miranda.
train (departures every 30 minutes). For the
dance, hip-hop and capoeira. The center provides kids with a chance to get off the street, tap
best view, sit on the right-hand side going up.
into their Afro-Brazilian heritage and gain self-esteem in setting and fulfilling goals. Owing to
MUSEU DE ARTE MODERNA
Be sure to choose a clear day to go up.
the center’s wide popularity, the ideas have spread. GCAR and its favela affiliates now offer more
At the north end of Parque do Flamengo, the
than 60 different programs for poor residents around Rio.
Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM; Map pp144-5 ; %2240
LARGO DO BOTICÁRIO
Rocinha, Brazil’s largest favela, creates similar opportunities for local residents at its Casa da
4944; www.mamrio.org.br in Portuguese; Av Infante Dom Hen-
The brightly painted houses on the pictur-
Cultura. Founded in 2003 by Gilberto Gil, Minister of Culture, singer and neighbor, the center draws
rique 85, Flamengo; adult/child R$5/2; hnoon-6pm Tue-Fri,
esque square of Largo do Boticário (Map pp142-3 ; Rua
on the favela’s rich artistic tradition, and offers classes in music, theater and painting. The favela
to 7pm Sat & Sun) is immediately recognizable by
Cosme Velho 822) date from the early 19th century.
next door, Vidigal, perched on a hillside overlooking Ipanema Beach, is the base of the group
the striking postmodern edifice designed by
Largo do Boticário was named in honor of the
‘Nos do Morro’ (We of the Favela). This theater group won fame after some of its young actors
Alfonso Eduardo Reidy. The landscaping of
Portuguese gentleman – Joaquim Luiz da Silva
appeared in the award-winning film Cidade de Deus (City of God). Ten of its members performed
Burle Marx is no less impressive. After a dev-
Souto – who once ran a boticário (apothecary)
in Two Gentlemen of Verona for the Royal Shakespeare Company in August 2006.
astating fire in 1978 that consumed 90% of its
utilized by the royal family.
As many have discovered, the favela has a deep well of talent, but few opportunities. Opportunity
collection, the museum is finally back on its
is exactly what sociologist Maria Teresa Leal had in mind when she founded a sewing collective in
feet and now houses 11,000 permanent works,
MUSEU INTERNACIONAL DE ARTE NAÏF
Rocinha in the 1980s. The idea began during Leal’s repeat trips to the favela when she encountered
including pieces by Brazilian artists Bruno
DO BRASIL
many talented seamstresses who had no chance to earn money for their skills. So began Coopa
Giorgi, Emiliano Di Cavalcanti and Maria
The collection of arte naïf (primitivist) paint-
Roca (www.coopa-roca.org.br), a small group of women, each working from home to produce quilts,
Martins. You’ll find excellent photography
ings in the Museu Internacional de Arte Naïf do
pillows and craft items made of recycled fabrics and other materials. Today the co-op employs
and design exhibits, and the cinema hosts
Brasil (Map pp142-3 ; %2205 8612; www.museunaif.com
some 150 women, and has even caught the eye of the fashion world, with commissions from
regular film festivals throughout the year.
.br; Rua Cosme Velho 561, Cosme Velho; adult/child R$8/4;
Brazilian designers Osklen and Carlos Miele, as well as British designer Paul Smith.
h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, noon-6pm Sat & Sun) is extensive:
For their part, favelas have made numerous contributions to the city. Rio’s biggest party,
MUSEU CARMEN MIRANDA
over 8000 pieces, executed by artists from 130
Carnaval, was born in the favelas, and they continue to be pivotal to the fest. That favelas throw
Although Carmen Miranda is largely forgot-
countries, dating from the 15th century to
the best parties has long been known to many Cariocas. Today, Baile Funks are the biggest party
ten in Hollywood, the once-great Brazilian
the present. Visitors receive a 50% discount
craze to lure both rich and poor to the gritty neighborhoods on the hillsides. There, DJs spin a
singer still has her fans, and has become a cult
by showing a ticket stub from the Corcovado
blend of Rio’s bass-heavy funk music to packed dance floors.
icon among Rio’s gay community. In addi-
cog train, which is a block away.
Travellers interested in seeing beneath the stereotypes can visit a favela on a tour ( p163 ),
tion to photographs and music of her era, the
volunteer ( p713 ) or even overnight in a favela (Pousada Favelinha, p169 ).
tiny Museu Carmen Miranda (Map pp142-3 ; %2551
Catete & Glória
2597; facing Av Rui Barbosa 560, Flamengo; adult/child R$3/1;
Like Flamengo, these twin districts flourished
h11am-5pm Tue-Fri, 2-5pm Sat & Sun) showcases the
in the mid-19th century, when their location
1739 and became the favorite of the royal
1866 and easily distinguished by the bronze
starlet’s iconographic costumes and jewelry.
at the outskirts of the city made them desirable
family upon their arrival in 1808. Attached to
condors on the eaves, the palace was home to
places to live. The area’s star attraction is the
the church is a small religious art museum (R$1;
the president of Brazil from 1896 until 1954,
Cosme Velho
Palácio do Catete, the republic’s seat of power
h9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 9am-noon Sat & Sun).
when President Getúlio Vargas killed himself.
Cosme Velho lies west of Laranjeiras and is
before the capital was transferred to Brasília.
The bedroom in which the suicide occurred is
one of the city’s most visited neighborhoods –
MUSEU DA REPÚBLICA
eerily preserved on the 3rd floor.
if only for the statue of Christ the Redeemer
IGREJA DE NS DA GLÓRIA DO OUTEIRO
Located in the Palácio do Catete, the Museu
Behind the Palácio lies the Parque do Catete,
soaring above its streets.
The tiny Igreja de NS da Glória do Outeiro (Map
da República (Map pp142-3 ; %3235 2650; www.museu
a small, nicely landscaped park complete with
pp144-5 ; %2225 2869; www.outeirodagloria.org.br in Por-
darepublica.org.br in Portuguese; Rua do Catete 153, Catete;
a pond and the occasional swan.
CRISTO REDENTOR
tuguese; Praça de NS da Glória 135; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri,
admission R$6, free on Wed & Sun; hnoon-5pm Tue, Thu &
Atop Corcovado (which means ‘hunch-
8am-noon Sat & Sun) commands lovely views over
Fri, 2-5pm Wed, 2-6pm Sat & Sun) has a good collec-
MUSEU DE FOLCLÓRICO EDSON CARNEIRO
back’), Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer; Map
Parque do Flamengo and the bay. Considered
tion of art and artifacts from the Republican
Next door to the Palácio do Catete, the Museu
pp142-3 ; %2558 1329; Cog station: Rua Cosme Velho 513,
one of the finest examples of religious colonial
period, and also houses an outdoor café, cin-
de Folclórico Edson Carneiro (Map pp142-3 ; %2205
Cosme Velho; adult/child R$35/17.50; h8:30am-6:30pm)
architecture in Brazil, the church dates from
ema and bookstore. Built between 1858 and
0090; Rua do Catete 181, Catete; free admission; h11am-6pm
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Tue-Fri, 3-6pm Sat & Sun) provides an excellent in-
concerts. While the first floor functions as a
CENTRO CULTURAL DO BANCO DO BRASIL
century), on the present site, was credited
troduction to Brazilian folk art. Its collection
library where visitors can peruse art books
Housed in a beautifully restored building dat-
to a ship’s captain who had almost been
includes Candomblé costumes, ceramic figu-
and design mags; a listening station features
ing from 1906, the Centro Cultural do Banco do
shipwrecked at sea. Upon his safe return he
rines and religious costumes used in festivals,
eclectic music.
Brasil (CCBB; Map pp144-5 ; %3808 2020; www.cultura-e
vowed to build a church to her. A later design
though our favorite exhibits are the delightful,
.com.br in Portuguese; Rua Primeiro de Março 66; admission
led to its present-day grandeur, which rated
mechanized scenes (the circus, bull riding,
Centro
free; hnoon-8pm Tue-Sun) is now one of Brazil’s
Igreja de NS de Candelária (Map pp144-5 ; %2233
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
samba show, rubber tree workers).
Rio’s bustling commercial district, Centro
best cultural centers, with a cinema, two theat-
2324; Praça Pio X, Centro; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm
is a blend of high-rise office buildings with
ers and some of the city’s best (and free) exhi-
Sat & Sun) among the largest and wealthiest
CENTRO CULTURAL TELEMAR
remnants of its grand past still present in
bitions. There’s always something going on at
churches of imperial Brazil. The interior is
One of Rio’s intriguing new additions, Cen-
looming baroque churches, wide plazas and
CCBB – visit its website for listings.
a spectacular combination of baroque and
tro Cultural Telemar (Map pp142-3 ; %3131 6060;
cobblestone streets.
Renaissance styles. The ceiling above the
www.centroculturaltelemar.com.br in Portuguese; Rua 2 de
Many pedestrian-only areas crisscross
CENTRO DE ARTE HÉLIO OITICICA
nave features six large panels that depict the
Dezembro 63; admission free; h11am-8pm Tue-Sun) is a
Centro. The most famous of these is known
This avant-garde museum (Map pp144-5 ; %2242
romanticized version of the sea captain’s
six-story ultra-modern exhibition space fea-
as Saara, a giant street bazaar crammed with
1012; Rua Luis de Camões 68; admission free; h11am-7pm
journey and the subsequent origin of the
turing multimedia installations focusing on
discount stores. In the last century, Saara
Tue-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun) is set in a 19th-century
church. The cupola, fabricated entirely from
architecture, urban design and video art. The
attracted an influx of immigrants from the
neoclassical building that originally housed
limestone shipped from Lisbon, is one of its
top-floor auditorium of this cultural center
Middle East, and still has a few authentic
the Conservatory of Music and Dramatic
most striking features.
has a regular line-up of film screenings and
Lebanese restaurants.
Arts. Today, the center displays permanent
works by the artist, theoretician and poet
MOSTEIRO DE SÃO BENTO
Hélio Oiticica, as well as bold contempo-
Another fine colonial gem, the Mosteiro de São
BOHEMIAN RIO
rary art exhibitions, well-tuned to Oiticica’s
Bento (Map pp144-5 ; %2291 7122; Rua Dom Gerardo 68,
The Zona Sul may have lovely beaches, but the city’s soul has long since migrated inland. Today,
progressive aesthetics.
Centro; h8-11am & 2:30-6pm) was built between
the neighborhood of Lapa and its hilltop sister Santa Teresa form the backdrop to an explosive
1617 and 1641 on Morro de São Bento, one of
renaissance.
ESPAÇO CULTURAL DA MARINHA
the four hills that once marked colonial Rio.
On weekend nights, Av Mem de Sá is a jumble of dance halls and restaurants, with samba and
On the waterfront, the Espaço Cultural da Marinha
The simple facade hides a baroque interior
chorinho (an informal, instrumental music genre) seeming to spill from every doorway. Meanwhile
(Map pp144-5 ; %2104 6992; Av Alfred Agache s/n; admis-
richly decorated in gold. Among its historic
in Santa Teresa, old haunts like Bar do Mineiro ( p176 ) continue to be the meeting ground for a
sion free; hnoon-5pm Tue-Sun) is a sailor’s delight.
treasures are wood carvings designed by Frei
new wave of artists and intellectuals as the old tram rattles through the streets.
Moored along the dock are the Riachuelo
Domingos da Conceição and paintings by
The area is known for its colorful characters, although the latest crop of eccentrics is hardly
submarine and the Bauru (a small WWII de-
José Oliveira Rosa. On Sunday, the High
the first. Lapa’s grand days of bohemia came in the 1920s and ‘30s, when a jumble of artists,
stroyer), which have been turned into float-
Mass at 10am includes a choir of Benedictine
writers and intellectuals mingled among the rough underworld of dance halls, cabarets and
ing museums. You’ll also find a 19th-century
monks singing Gregorian chants. To reach
brothels. It was the era of colorful malandros (con artists) and samba, which was the music of the
vessel used by Dom João VI, countless ship
the monastery from Rua Dom Gerardo, go
city. Films like Madam Satã, in which Lapa plays a starring role, recall the era of intrigue on the
models, and maps and navigational instru-
to number 40 and take the elevator to the
streets, with hush men and corrupt cops, villains and prostitutes wandering dark street corners
ments charting the history of imperial and
5th floor.
as samba ballads spilled out of dimly lit clubs.
Brazilian navigation. The boat tour to Ilha
Yet the place lost its soul in the 1940s, when then president Getúlio Vargas shuttered the
Fiscal ( p156 ) leaves from here.
MUSEU HISTÓRICO NACIONAL
cabarets and dance halls and the energy moved elsewhere. Hard times ensued, and escalated
Housed in the colonial arsenal, which dates
as Rio lost its federal prominence (and much cash) to Brasília in the 1960s. Lapa soon became a
IGREJA SÃO FRANCISCO DA PENITÊNCIA
from 1764, the impressive Museu Histórico
no-go area of crime and decay, and samba went underground. Although sambistas never forget
& CONVENTO SANTO ANTÔNIO
Nacional (Map pp144-5 ; %2550 9224; www.museu
about Lapa, the city forgot about samba – and the appetite for the old-fashioned sound waned
Overlooking the Largo da Carioca is the ba-
historiconacional.com.br; off Av General Justo; adult/child
as youth flocked to the new bossa nova bars in the beachside neighborhoods of Ipanema and
roque Igreja São Francisco da Penitência & Convento
R$6/3, free Sun; h10am-5:30pm Tue-Fri, 2-6pm Sat & Sun)
Leblon. Later, rock and disco replaced bossa.
Santo Antônio (Map pp144-5 ; %2262 0197; Largo da Cari-
contains over 250,000 historic relics relating
Then in the last decade, Lapa has emerged, phoenix-like, from the ashes. Its rebirth has much
oca 5, Centro; h9am-noon & 1-4pm Tue-Fri), dating from
to the history of Brazil from its founding to
to do with samba’s renewed popularity. The area’s first samba club, Carioca da Gema ( p179 ),
1726. Recently restored to its former glory, the
its early days as a republic. The museum
opened in 2000, and Cariocas slowly started coming into the neighborhood – although they were
church’s sacristy has blue Portuguese tiles and
is located near Praça Marechal Âncora and
wary of returning at first. Today there are dozens of music venues in Lapa, and the city seems
an elaborately carved altar made out of jaca-
features many well-designed displays, from
to have an insatiable appetite for samba.
randa wood. It also has a roof panel by José
gilded imperial coaches and the throne of
On a Thursday night, the democratic mix in the neighborhood is startling: white-clad sambistas
Oliveira Rosa depicting St Francis receiving
Dom Pedro II to massive oil paintings de-
slinging cavaquinhos (small, four-string guitars), alongside young Zona Sul couples and tourists
the stigmata. The church’s statue of Santo
picting the horrific combat in the war with
from across the globe, watched over by a new wave of malandros (picaresque con artists) and
Antônio is an object of great devotion to many
Paraguay. There’s some attention paid to
oldtimers, who’ve seen it all even though they haven’t left the neighborhood. Cariocas once
Cariocas in search of a husband or wife.
Brazil’s indigenous population and to curi-
again gather in old-fashioned clubs with grand staircases and soaring ceilings – making the glass
ous relics like the writing quill that Princess
and vinyl bars of the Zona Sul seem downright soulless. As one sambista recently said, ‘Lapa is
IGREJA DE NS DE CANDELÁRIA
Isabel used to sign the document abolishing
eternal. It’s like a phoenix. It decays, dies, then rises again.’
The construction of the original church to
slavery in Brazil and a full-sized model of a
NS de Candelária (dating from the late 16th
colonial pharmacy.
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MUSEU NACIONAL DE BELAS ARTES
ing from the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. It
travels over the Arcos do Lapa and up Rua
of music clubs, bars and old-fashioned restau-
Rio’s Museu Nacional de Belas Artes (Map pp144-5 ;
also has a small collection of paintings, sculp-
Joaquim Murtinho before reaching Largo
rants scattered along its avenues.
Av Rio Branco 199, Centro; admission US$1.50; h10am-6pm
tures and ancient coins.
do Guimarães. From there, one line (Paula
On weekend nights, revelers pack the
Tue-Fri, 2-6pm Sat & Sun) houses more than 800 orig-
Matos) takes a northwestern route, termi-
neighborhood’s samba clubs, its streets and
inal paintings and sculptures ranging from
TEATRO MUNICIPAL
nating at Largo das Neves. Unfortunately,
the wide plaza in front of the Arcos do Lapa,
the 17th to the 20th centuries. One of its most
Built in 1905 in the style of the Paris Opera,
security is an issue, and travelers have been
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
the neighborhood’s prominent landmark.
important galleries is the Galeria de Arte Bra-
the magnificent Teatro Municipal (Municipal Theater;
mugged walking to and from this plaza. The
Narrow tracks course over the 64m-high
sileira, with 20th-century classics such as Cân-
Map pp144-5 ; %2299 1711; Rua Manuel de Carvalho; guided
safest time to go is on a weekend night, when
structure, carrying the famous bonde to and
dido Portinari’s Café. Other galleries display
tour R$6; h1-4pm Mon-Fri) is the home of Rio’s
the Largo is at its liveliest – but take a taxi or
from Santa Teresa.
Brazilian folk art, African art and furniture, as
opera, orchestra and ballet. It’s well worth
a tram; don’t walk. The longer route (Dois
well as contemporary exhibits. Guided tours
booking a tour (call %2299 1667), if you
Irmãos) continues from Largo do Guimarães
CATEDRAL METROPOLITANA
are available in English (call ahead).
don’t attend a performance there.
uphill and southward before terminating near
The enormous cone-shaped Catedral Metro-
the water reservoir at Dois Irmãos.
politana (Map pp144-5 ; %2240 2669; Av República do
PAÇO IMPERIAL
TRAVESSA DO COMÉRCIO
Tram tours depart every Saturday high-
Chile 245, Lapa; admission free; h7am-5:30pm) was
Built in 1743, the Paço Imperial (Imperial Palace;
Beautiful two-story colonial townhouses line
lighting historic points in the neighborhood
inaugurated in 1976 after 12 years of con-
Map pp144-5 ; %2533 4407; cnr Praça XV de Novembro &
the narrow cobblestone street of Travessa do
(see p164 for details).
struction. Among its sculptures, murals and
Rua Primeiro de Março, Centro; free admission; hnoon-
Comércio (Map pp144-5 ; Near Praça XV de Novembro),
other works of art are four breathtaking
6:30pm Tue-Sun) today hosts an excellent range of
leading off of Praça XV de Novembro. The
MUSEU CHÁCARA DO CÉU
stained-glass windows, which stretch 60m
changing exhibitions (recent shows included
archway known as Arco de Teles leading into
The former mansion of art patron and indus-
to the ceiling.
the mobiles of Alexander Calder and a history
the area was once a part of an old viaduct run-
trialist Raymundo Ottoni de Castro Maya is
The small Museu de Arte Sacra (Museum of Sacred
of Brazilian music, complete with dozens of
ning between two buildings. Today, the street
now the Museu Chácara do Céu (Map pp144-5 ; %2507
Art; admission R$2) is in the basement. It contains
listening stations). Originally built as a gov-
contains half a dozen restaurants and drinking
1932; Rua Murtinho Nobre 93, Santa Teresa; admission R$6;
historical items such as the throne of Dom
ernor’s residence, it later served as the home
spots that open onto the streets. It’s a favorite
hnoon-5pm Wed-Mon), with a small collection
Pedro II, the baptismal basins used at the
to Dom João and his family when the Portu-
spot for Cariocas after work.
of modern art. In addition to works by Porti-
christenings of royal princes and the golden
guese royals fled Napoleon and transferred the
nari, Di Cavalcanti, and a good assortment of
roses Princess Isabel received from Pope Leo
throne to the colony. In 1888 Princesa Isabel
Santa Teresa
European and Asian works, the museum
XIII after signing the law abolishing slavery
proclaimed the Freedom from Slavery Act
Set on a hill overlooking the city, the cobbled
displays furniture and Brazilian maps dating
in Brazil.
from the palace’s steps. In addition to exhibi-
streets and aging mansions of Santa Teresa
from the 17th and 18th centuries. Beautiful
tions, there are restaurants, a music store and
are a vision of days long past. Named after
gardens surround the museum, with fine views
a cinema on the 1st floor.
the Carmelite convent founded here in 1750,
of Centro and Baía de Guanabara. Sadly, four
ESCADARIA SELARÓN
Adjoining the Paço is the Praça XV de Novem-
Santa Teresa was the uppermost residential
of the museum’s most valuable paintings were
An ever-expanding installation, the Escadaria
bro, the broad plaza where Brazil’s two emper-
neighborhood in the 19th century, when
stolen during an armed robbery in 2006.
Selarón (Selarón Staircase; Map pp144-5 ; btwn Rua Joaquim
ors (Pedro I and Pedro II) were crowned. It
Rio’s upper class lived here and rode the
Silva, Lapa & Rua Pinto Martins, Santa Teresa), leading up
was later the site of the deposition of Emperor
bonde (tram) to work in Centro. During the
PARQUE DAS RUINAS
from Rua Joaquim Silva, became a work of
Pedro II in 1889.
1960s and 1970s many artists and bohemians
Connected to the Chácara do Céu by a walk-
art when Chilean-born artist Jorge Selarón
moved into Santa Teresa’s mansions, initiating
way, the Parque das Ruinas (Map pp144-5 ; %2252
decided to cover the steps with colorful mosa-
PRAÇA FLORIANO
a revitalization process that still continues.
1039; Rua Murtinho Nobre 169, Santa Teresa; admission free;
ics. A dedication to the Brazilian people, the
The heart of modern Rio, Praça Floriano (Map
Throughout the year, impromptu festivals
h10am-8pm Tue-Sun) contains the ruins of the
215 steps are a vivid riot of color.
pp144-5 ; Av Rio Branco, Centro) comes to life at lunch-
and street parties fill the air, making it one of
mansion that belong to Brazilian heiress Lau-
time and after work when the outdoor cafés
Rio’s most exciting neighborhoods.
rinda Santos Lobo. Her house was a meeting
FUNDIÇÃO PROGRESSO
are filled with beer drinkers, samba musicians
Although there is a police presence in
point for Rio’s artists and intellectuals for
Once a foundry for safes and ovens, the
and political debate. The square is also Rio’s
the area, the favelas down the hillsides still
many years until her death in 1946. Today
Fundição Progresso (%2220 5070; Rua dos Arcos 24,
political marketplace. There’s daily speech-
make this a high-crime area. Don’t take any
the park often stages open-air concerts and
Lapa; admission free; concerts R$10-50; h9am-6pm Mon-
making, literature sales and street theater.
valuables when walking around; it’s best to
performances. Don’t miss the view from the
Fri) today hosts avant-garde exhibitions, per-
Most city marches and rallies culminate here
stick close to Largo do Guimarães and the
top floor.
formances and popular samba parties during
on the steps of the old Câmara Municipal
bonde line.
the summer.
(Town Hall), in the northwest corner of
Lapa
the plaza.
BONDE
Formerly a residential neighborhood of the
Greater Rio
The bonde (Map pp144-5 ; %2240 5709; station at Rua
wealthy, Lapa had its best days before the
To the west of Centro lie some of Rio’s big-
REAL GABINETE PORTUGUÊS DE LEITURA
Lélio Gama 65, Centro; ticket R$0.60; hdepartures every
20th century, and its mansions are now sadly
name attractions, including the Sambódromo,
Built in the Manuelin Portuguese style in
30min, 7am-10pm) that travels up to Santa Teresa
neglected. Today Lapa recalls decades of der-
the Maracanã Football Stadium and the Feira
1837, the gorgeous Real Gabinete Português de
from Centro is the last of the historic street-
eliction in the minds of some Cariocas, while
Nordestina, one of Brazil’s wildest markets.
Leitura (Portuguese Reading Room; Map pp144-5 ; %2221
cars that once crisscrossed the city. Its clatter
others cite the cultural renaissance happening
You’ll also find the Quinta da Boa Vista, a
3138; Rua Luís de Camões 30; admission free; h9am-6pm
through the cobbled streets has made it the
here. Undoubtedly, Lapa is the center of a
large park containing the Museu Nacional
Mon-Fri) houses over 350,000 works, many dat-
icon for bohemian Santa Teresa. The tram
vibrant bohemian scene in Rio, with dozens
and the Jardim Zoológico (zoo). These latter
156 R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • S i g h t s
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R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • S i g h t s 157 RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
sites lie in São Cristóvão, which in the 19th
famous number 10 shirt. There’s a record-
rent) or horsedrawn carts. There’s a certain
two looming hills on either side and backed by
century was home to the nobility, including
ing of cheering fans overhead, giving you
decadent charm to the colonial buildings,
vegetation, the white sands of Itacoatiara seem
the monarchs themselves. It has since become
an idea of the energy that runs through this
unassuming beaches and businesses cater-
a world removed from the urban beaches of
one of the most populous suburbs in Rio.
place. There’s also a store that sells football
ing to local tourism. The place gets crowded
Rio. Barracas sell scrumptious plates of fish,
To the east of Centro lies Rio’s scenic bay.
shirts. Enter through gate number 16 on Rua
on weekends.
and there are also food stands overlooking the
Unfortunately, it’s too polluted for swimming,
Professor Eurico Rabelo.
Go to Paquetá for the boat ride, the pretty
beach (try Sanduiches Onda for a natural – a
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
but it makes a fine setting for sailing out to
scenery across the bay and to see Cariocas
sandwich of tuna, chicken or cottage cheese,
Ilha de Paquetá or Niterói. For cruises on the
Quinta da Boa Vista
at play – especially during the Festa de São
with additional ingredients such as carrots,
bay, see p163 .
The residence of the imperial family until
Roque, which is celebrated over five days in
raisins or olives). The surf is strong here – as
the Republic was proclaimed, today Quinta
August.
evidenced by the abundance of surfers – so
CIDADE NOVA
da Boa Vista (Map pp146-7 ; %2234 1609; Rua Paula e
Boats leave from near the Praça XV de No-
swim with caution. To get here, you can take
Sambódromo
Silva, São Cristóvão; h7am-6pm) is a large and busy
vembro in Centro. The regular ferry (%4004
bus 38 from the ferry terminal (R$4, 50 min-
The epicenter of Rio’s Carnaval, the Sam-
park with gardens and lakes. On weekends it’s
3113; weekday/weekend return R$7.20/12) takes 70 min-
utes) or any bus labeled ‘Itacoatiara.’ If you’re
bódromo (Map pp146-7 ; Rua do Catumbi) was designed
crowded with soccer games and families from
utes and offers seven to nine trips daily from
traveling in a group you can negotiate a return
by Oscar Niemeyer and completed in 1984. The
the Zona Norte. The former imperial mansion
7.10am to 11pm. At the time of research, the
fare with a taxi driver.
small Museu do Carnaval (Map pp146-7 ; free admission;
houses the Museu Nacional (Map pp146-7 ; %2568
hydrofoil (%2533 4343; return R$16) took 30 min-
h11am-5pm Tue-Sun) has information on the his-
8262; admission R$3; h10am-4pm Tue-Sun) and Museu
utes and was operating infrequently.
BARRA DA TIJUCA & WEST OF RIO
tory of Rio’s samba schools, and you can try on
da Fauna. In addition to Etruscan ceramics,
Ten kilometers west of Leblon, Barra da Tijuca
costumes, but aside from that, there isn’t much
Egyptian mummies and stuffed prehistoric
NITERÓI
(Barra) is the Miami of Rio, with malls and
to see when the parades aren’t happening.
animals, the Museu Nacional contains a small
The city of Niterói’s principal attraction is the
shopping centers set against the tropical land-
Brazilian section with relics from the coun-
famous Museu do Arte Contemporânea. The
scape. At 12km long, the lovely beach here is
SÃO CRISTÓVÃO
try’s early indigenous people. For a chance to
cruise across the bay, however, is perhaps just
the city’s longest. Beyond this, the region gets
Feira Nordestina
see a wide assortment of plants and flowers –
as valid a reason for leaving Rio. The ferry costs
less and less urban. Some of Rio’s most beauti-
The enormous Feira Nordestina (Map pp146-7 ;
both native and imported species – visit the
about R$4.60 return and leaves from Praça XV
ful beaches lie out this way (see the boxed text
%3860 9976; www.feiradesaocristovao.com.br in Portu-
Museu da Fauna.
de Novembro in Centro; it’s usually full of
on p158 for details). Further west begins Bra-
guese; Campo de São Cristóvão, São Cristóvão; h10am-4pm
The Jardim Zoológico (Map pp146-7 ; %2569 2024;
commuters. The faster and more comfortable
zil’s gorgeous coastal road that travels through
Tue-Thu & 10am Fri-10pm Sun) is not to be missed.
admission R$5; h9am-4:30pm Tue-Sun), Rio’s zoo, is
alternative is the jumbo catamaran, which runs
the region known as the Costa Verde.
The fair (32,000 sq meters with 658 stalls)
200m away from Boa Vista. It boasts a me-
every 15 minutes from 7am to 4pm and costs
showcases the culture from the Northeast,
dium-sized collection of Brazilian mammals
R$11 return. Once you reach the dock, there
Praia da Barra da Tijuca
with barracas (stalls) selling Bahian dishes as
and endangered species. Highlights include
isn’t much to see in the immediate area. It’s a
The best thing about Barra is the beach, Praia
well as beer and cachaça (sugarcane spirit),
the tropical-bird aviary (the gardens are a
busy commercial area, full of pedestrians and
da Barra da Tijuca (Map p137 ). It’s a long, scenic
which flows in great abundance. Bands per-
good place for birdwatchers) and the Noctur-
crisscrossing intersections. From here catch a
spot with blue sea lapping at the shore; the
form forró (popular music of the Northeast),
nal House, offering visitors a close-up view of
bus to the MAC or to one of the beaches.
first few kilometers are filled with bars and
samba and Música Popular Brasileira (MPB).
sloths, bats and other creatures of the night.
seafood restaurants.
On Friday, the fair turns into a huge party
Museu do Arte Contemporânea
The young and beautiful hang out in front
which runs nonstop until Sunday.
BAÍA DE GUANABARA
Designed by Brazil’s most famous archi-
of barraca number 1 – also known as the Bar-
Ilha Fiscal
tect, Oscar Niemeyer, the
Museu do Arte
raca do Pepê, after the famous Carioca hang
Maracanã Football Stadium
The lime-green, neo-Gothic palace of Ilha Fis-
Contemporânea (MAC; Map p137 ; %2620 2400; www
gliding champion who died during a competi-
Brazil’s temple of soccer, Maracanã Football Sta-
cal (Map pp144-5 ; %2233 9165; admission R$8; h1pm,
.macniteroi.com.br in Portuguese; Mirante da Boa Viagem
tion in Japan in 1991.
dium (Map pp146-7 ; %2299 2941; Rua Professor Eurico
2:30pm & 4pm Thu-Sun except on the 2nd weekend of each
s/n, Niterói; admission R$5; h11am-6pm Tue-Sun) is a
The further out you go the more deserted
Rabelo, São Cristóvão; admission R$12-30) easily accom-
month), sitting in the Baía de Guanabara, looks
curvilinear building with breathtaking views,
it gets, and the stalls turn into trailers. It’s
modates more than 100,000 people. On cer-
like something out of a fairy tale. It was de-
but the expositions inside aren’t always very
calm on weekdays and crazy on hot summer
tain occasions, such as the World Cup match
signed by engineer Adolfo del Vecchio and
notable. To get here from the Niterói ferry
weekends.
of 1950 or Pelé’s last game, it has squeezed in
was the location of the last Imperial Ball
terminal, turn right as you leave and walk
close to 200,000 crazed fans – although it’s
on November 9, 1889. Today it’s open for
about 50m across to the bus stop in the mid-
Sitio Burle Marx
now been modified to hold fewer.
guided tours, which leave from the Espaço
dle of the road; a 47B minibus will drop you
The enormous 350,000-sq-meter estate, Sitio
For a quasi-psychedelic experience, go to a
Cultural da Marinha ( p153 ), north of Praça
at the museum door.
Burle Marx (Map p137 ; %2410 1412; burlemarx@alternex
futebol (football) match – preferably a cham-
XV de Novembro.
.com.br; Estrada da Barra de Guaratiba 2019, Guaratiba; admis-
pionship game or one between local rivals
BEACHES EAST OF NITERÓI
sion R$5; h7am-4pm, by advance appointment only) was
Flamengo, Vasco da Gama, Fluminense or
Ilha de Paquetá
A number of beaches lie just east of Niterói.
once the magnificent home of Brazil’s most
Botafogo. See p182 for details.
The Ilha de Paquetá (Map p137 ), in the Baía de
The ones closest to town are too polluted for
famous landscape architect, Roberto Burle
A sports museum (admission R$14; h9am-5pm
Guanabara, was once a popular tourist spot
swimming, but as you continue out, you’ll
Marx. The beautifully lush gardens of the es-
daily except game days) inside the stadium displays
and remains a pleasant escape from the city’s
reach some pristine beaches – Piratininga,
tate, 22km west of the city, easily warrant a
photographs, posters, and the uniforms of
bustle. There are no cars on the island. Trans-
Camboinhas, Itaipu and finally Itacoatiara ,
visit. Strolling the verdantly landscaped area
Brazilian sporting greats, including Pelé’s
port is by foot, bicycle (with hundreds for
the most fabulous of the bunch. Framed by
allows visitors the chance to see and smell
158 R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • A c t i v i t i e s
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of Ipanema), as well as trips to Angra dos
Rio has many trails through the rain forest of
BEACHES WEST OF RIO
Reis and Búzios.
Floresta da Tijuca. Visitors can also take part
Although Copacabana and Ipanema are Rio’s most famous stretches of sand, there are many
Calypso (%9939 5997, 8144 6574; www.calypsobrasil
in hikes around Corcovado, Morro da Urca,
stunning beaches in the area, some in spectacular natural settings.
.com.br in Portuguese) provides diving courses (up
Parque Lage and other areas. It’s advisable to
to Dive Master) in waters near Rio. You can
go with a guide for a number of reasons – to
Pepino/São Conrado
pick up information about courses at the dive
avoid getting lost and robbed are top of the
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
The first major beach you’ll reach heading west of Leblon is Praia do Pepino (Map p137 ) in São
shop AS Divers (Map pp144-5 ; %2252 8852; mezzanine,
list. Group outings can also be a good way to
Conrado. Pepino is a beautiful beach, and is less crowded than Ipanema. It’s also where hang
Rua da Alfândega 97, Centro).
meet Cariocas.
gliders like to lounge when they’re not soaring overhead.
Rio is also the center of rock climbing
Fishing
in Brazil, with around 350 documented
Recreio dos Bandeirantes
Universidade da Pesca (Map pp146-7 ; %3971 7211;
climbs within an hour’s drive. Rio has sev-
Although it gets crowded on weekends, Recreio dos Bandeirantes is almost deserted during
www.upesca.com.br in Portuguese; Rua do Bispo 94/1207, Rio
eral well-organized climbing clubs , which
the week. The large rock acts as a natural breakwater, creating a calm bay. The 2km-long stretch
Comprido) features a wide range of fishing tours –
have regular weekly meetings to discuss
of sand is popular with families.
from day trips in Baía de Guanabara and
upcoming outings.
Cagarras Island to weeklong adventures in
Centro Excursionista Brasileira (CEB; Map pp144-5 ;
Prainha
the Amazon.
%2252 9844; www.ceb.org.br in Portuguese; 8th fl, Av Almi-
The secluded 700m-long Prainha lies just 6km past Recreio. It’s one of the best surfing beaches
rante Barroso 2, Centro; hmeeting 7pm Thu, office 2-6pm
in Rio, so it’s always full of surfers. Waves come highly recommended here.
Hang gliding
Mon-Fri) CEB sponsors day hikes and weekend
Grumari
If you weigh less than 100kg (about 220lb)
treks (with camping).
The most isolated and unspoiled beach close to the city, Grumari is quiet during the week and
and can spare R$250, you can do the fantas-
Clube Excursionista Carioca (Map pp140-1 ; %2255
packed on weekends with Cariocas looking to get away from city beaches. It is a gorgeous set-
tic hang glide off 510m-high Pedra Bonita –
1348; www.carioca.org.br in Portuguese; Rua Hilário de Gouveia
ting, surrounded by mountains and lush vegetation.
one of the giant granite slabs that tower
206/71, Copacabana; hmeeting 8:30pm Thu) typically
above Rio – onto Praia do Pepino in São
arranges hikes and technical climbs, as well
Guaratiba
Conrado. No experience is necessary; tan-
as rappelling and rafting trips.
From Grumari, a narrow road climbs over a jungle-covered hillside toward Guaratiba. West of
dem riders are secured in a kind of pouch
Rio Hiking (%2552 9204, 9721 0594; www.riohiking
here is a good view of the Restinga de Marambaia (the vegetation-rich strip between the beach
attached to the kite.
.com.br) Founded by a mother-and-son team of
and the mainland), closed off to the public by a naval base. Cariocas enjoy eating lunch at several
Flights typically last from 15 to 25 min-
outdoor enthusiasts, Rio Hiking offers a wide
of the seafood restaurants in the area.
utes and naturally depend on weather and
variety of hikes. Popular treks go up Pico da
wind conditions. You can usually fly on all
Tijuca (the highest point in the national park),
but three to four days per month, and condi-
Pedra da Gávea (eight hours, R$142.50), Pão
thousands of exotic plant species from both
seum (Açude). On Sundays the beach road
tions during winter are even better. If you fly
de Açúcar (five hours, R$114) and Corcovado.
Brazil and abroad. A lovely 17th-century
from Leblon to Leme closes to traffic, as
early in the day, you have more flexibility to
Cycling, rafting, kayaking and rappelling trips
Benedictine chapel, along with Burle Marx’s
does the road through Parque do Flamengo.
accommodate weather delays. Prices include
can also be arranged.
original farmhouse and studio, completes the
Bilingual bike tours are available through Rio
pick-up and drop-off from your hotel. Travel
Tangara Ecological Hikes (%2252 8202, 9656 1460;
idyllic setting.
by Bike (Map pp138-9 ; %2247 7269; Hostel Ipanema,
agents also book tandem flights, but tack on
www.tangarapasseios.com.br) Tangara arranges day
House 14, Rua Barão da Torre 175, Ipanema).
their own fee. To cut out the middlemen,
hikes and outings on weekends on Tijuca
ACTIVITIES
You can rent bikes from a stand along the
call direct.
trails, up Corcovado and Pedra Bonita, and
Given the mountains, beaches and forests in
west side of Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas for R$10
Just Fly (%2268 0565; www.justfly.com.br; Hostel
to other nearby sites. Hikes are affordable
their backyard, it’s not surprising that Cari-
per hour. A few other places to rent bikes:
Ipanema, House 14, Rua Barão da Torre 175, Ipanema)
(around R$20 to R$25 per person), although
ocas are an active bunch. The coastline brings
Ciclovia (Map pp140-1 ; %2275 5299; Av Prado Junior
Paulo Celani is a highly experienced tandem flyer with
you’ll have to arrange your own transport
an array of options: jogging, hiking, walking,
330 & Rua Francisco Otaviano 55, Copacabana; per hr/day
over 6000 flights to his credit.
to the sites.
cycling, and surfing. The mountains offer their
R$8/50; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat) Rents bikes
SuperFly (%3322 2286; www.riosuperfly.com.br
Trilharte Ecoturismo (Map pp142-3 ; %2225 2426;
own allure: you can hang glide off them or rock
from posto 6 on Sundays (from 9am to 2pm).
in Portuguese; House 2, Estrada das Canoas 1476; São
www.trilharte.com.br in Portuguese; Suite 1, Rua Almirante
climb up them. Great hiking trails through
Special Bike (Map pp138-9 ; %2521 2686; Rua
Conrado) Ruy Marra, founder of SuperFly, has more than
Tamandaré 77, Flamengo) This organization offers
Atlantic rain forest lie just outside the city.
Visconde de Pirajá 135B, Ipanema; per hr/day R$15/45;
25 years of experience flying and is an excellent tandem
hiking trips that attract those with a passion
h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat)
glider pilot.
for nature photography; hikes cost around
Cycling
Zaga Bike (Map pp140-1 ; %2287 7616; Rua Miguel
Tandem Fly (%2422 6371, 3322 5817, 2493 4324;
R$35 (hike up Morro de Urca) and are held
There are over 74km of bike paths around
Lemos 51F, Copacabana; per hr/day R$10/50; h9am-
www.riotandemfly.com.br) Three experienced pilots run
on Saturdays.
Rio, including those around Lagoa Rodrigo
6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) Good mountain bikes.
this tandem flight outfit. They also give lessons for those
de Freitas, along Barra da Tijuca and the
wanting to fly solo.
Surfing
oceanfront from Leblon to Leme. This last
Diving
When the surf is good, it gets crowded. Praia
path also connects to Praia de Botafogo and
Dive Point (Map pp138-9 ; %2239 5105; www.divepoint
Hiking & Climbing
do Arpoador, between Copacabana and
Parque do Flamengo, running all the way to
.com.br in Portuguese; Shop 5, Av Ataulfo de Paiva 1174, Leblon)
Aside from access to nearby national parks
Ipanema, draws large flocks of surfers, though
Centro. In the Tijuca forest, a 6km bikeway
offers diving courses and tours around Rio’s
like Parque Nacional da Serra dos Órgãos
there are much better breaks further out in
runs from a waterfall (Cascatinha) to a mu-
main beaches and Cagarras Island (in front
( p209 ) and Parque Nacional de Itatiaia ( p203 ),
Barra, Grumari, Joá and Prainha – by far the
160 R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • A c t i v i t i e s
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with a wooden racquet, hitting a small rubber
Located between the mountains and the
PARQUE NACIONAL DA TIJUCA
ball back and forth as hard as possible.
sea at Praia Vermelha in Urca is the Pista
The Floresta da Tijuca (another name for Parque Nacional da Tijuca) is all that’s left of the Atlantic
Those interested in improving their volley-
Cláudio Coutinho (Map pp142–3 ). It’s closed
rain forest that once surrounded Rio de Janeiro. In just 15 minutes you can go from the con-
ball game – or just meeting some Cariocas –
to bicycles but open to walkers and joggers
crete jungle of Copacabana to the 120-sq-km tropical jungle of the Parque Nacional da Tijuca
should pay a visit to Pelé at Escolinha de Vôlei
from 7am until 6pm daily, and is very secure
(Map p137 ). A more rapid and dramatic contrast is hard to imagine. The forest is an exuberant
(Map pp138-9 ; %9702 5794; www.voleinapraia.com.br
because of the army post nearby.
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
green, with beautiful trees, creeks and waterfalls, mountainous terrain and high peaks. It has an
in Portuguese; near Rua Garcia D’Ávila, on Ipanema Beach).
excellent, well-marked trail system. Candomblistas (devotees of the Candomblé religion) leave
Pelé, who speaks English, has been giving
WALKING TOUR
offerings by the roadside, families have picnics and serious hikers climb the 1012m to the sum-
one-hour volleyball lessons for over 10 years.
A blend of historic buildings and young sky-
mit of Pico da Tijuca.
Lessons are in the morning (from about 8am
scrapers, the center of Rio makes an excellent
The heart of the forest is the Alto da Boa Vista area, which has many lovely natural and artificial
to 11am) and in the afternoon (5pm to 7pm).
place to discover the city’s charm away from
features. Among the highlights of this beautiful park are several waterfalls (Cascatinha Taunay,
He charges around R$50 for the month and
its beaches and mountains. Among the hustle
Cascata Gabriela and Cascata Diamantina), a 19th-century chapel (Capela Mayrink) and nu-
you can come as often as you like. Look for
and bustle, you’ll find museums, charming
merous caves (Gruta Luís Fernandes, Gruta Belmiro and Gruta Paulo e Virgínia). Also in the
his large Brazilian flag on the beach.
bars, theaters and open-air bazaars. This tour
park is a pleasant picnic spot (Bom Retiro) and several restaurants (Restaurante Os Equilos and
is best done during the week, when Centro is
Restaurante a Floresta, which is near the Ruínas do Archer, the ruins of Major Archer’s house).
Walking & Jogging
at its most vibrant (and safest).
A recommended culinary experience is the open-air brunch at the Museu do Açude (%2492
Good walking and jogging paths in the Zona
Start at Praça Floriano (1; p154 ), which is
2119; Estrada do Açude 764, Floresta da Tijuca), held on the last Sunday of the month.
Sul include Parque do Flamengo (Map pp144–
the heart of modern Rio. Praça Floriano
The park is home to many different bird and animal species, including iguanas and monkeys,
5 ), which also has workout stations. Around
comes to life at lunchtime and after work
which you might encounter on one of the excellent day hikes you can make here. Maps can be
Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas (Map pp138–9 ), a
when the outdoor cafés fill with Cari-
obtained at the small artisan shop (h7am-9pm), just inside the park entrance.
7.5km track provides a path for cyclists and
ocas. The neoclassical Teatro Municipal (2;
The entire park closes at sunset. It’s best to go by car, but if you can’t, catch a number 221,
joggers. Along the seaside, from Leme to Barra
p154 ) overlooking the plaza is one of Rio’s
233 or 234 bus. Alternatively, take the metro to Saens Peña then catch a bus going to Barra
da Tijuca, there’s a bike path and footpath. On
finest buildings.
da Tijuca and get off at Alto da Boa Vista. The best route by car is to take Rua Jardim Botânico
Sunday, the road is closed to traffic from 7am
On the east side of Av Rio Branco, facing
two blocks past the Jardim Botânico (heading east from Gávea). Turn left on Rua Lopes Quintas
to 6pm. The road skirting through Parque do
Praça Floriano, is an open-air music market,
and then follow the Tijuca or Corcovado signs for two quick left turns until you reach the back
Flamengo is also closed on Sundays.
Rua Pedro Lessa (3), where you can browse the
of the Jardim Botânico, where you turn right. Then follow the signs for a quick ascent into the
forest and past the Vista Chinesa (get out for a good view) and the Mesa do Imperador, both
CENTRO WALKING TOUR
0
400 m
0
0.2 miles
of which offer some fantastic views of Rio’s mountainous seascape. As soon as you seem to
come out of the forest, turn right onto the main road and you’ll see the stone columns at the
Presidente Vargas
Rua da Conceiçáo
Rua Gonçalves Dias
entrance of Alto da Boa Vista on your left after a couple of kilometers. You can also drive up
Av Presidente Vargas
Rua Gonçalves Ledo
to Alto da Boa Vista by heading out to São Conrado and turning right up the hill at the Parque
Av Passos
Av Rio Branco
Nacional da Tijuca signs.
Rua da Alfândega
10
Warning: There have been occasional reports of armed robberies within the park. Most Cari-
15 Rua Luis
Rua Senhor dos Passos
Rua da Assembléia
ocas recommend going on weekends when there are more people around.
Rua Regente Feijo
de Camões
16
Rua de Buenos Aires
CASTELO
14
Praça da República
Av Nilo Peçanha
Praça
Rua da Constituição
best surf spot in Rio. Across the bay, Itacoati-
Escolinha de Surf Paulo Dolabella (Map pp138-9 ;
Campo de
Rua da Carioca
Tiradentes
11
Santana
8
13
ara also has good breaks. For transportation to
%2259 2320; in front of Rua Maria Quitéria, Ipanema
12
Carioca
the beaches, grab your board and hop on the
Beach) Although you’ll have to ask around to find him,
Av República do Paraguai
Largo da
Carioca
17
Av Graça Aranha
Surf Bus (%office 2539 7555, bus 8702 2837; www.surfbus
Paulo gives private lessons.
Rua do Lavradiá
7
Av Almirante Barroso
Park
Rua Pedro I
Av 13 de Maio
.com.br in Portuguese; 1-way R$3), a bright yellow-
Escolinha de Surf Barra da Tijuca (%3209 0302;
Rua Visconde do Rio Branco
Rua Senador Dantas
6
orange bus that makes four return trips daily
1st kiosk after Post 5, Av Sernambetiba, Praia da Barra da
2
Rua Araújo
Porto Alegre
(beginning at 7am) from Largo do Machado
Tijuca) This surfing school is run by a Brazilian ex-champion
9
5
Rua do Senado
Av República do Chile
4
(near Flamengo) to Prainha, with stops at
and former professional surfer.
Praça Mons.
R Pedro Lessa
3
beaches along the way.
Francisco Pinto
21
1
Cinelândia
If you don’t have a board, you can hire
Volleyball & Other Beach Sports
18
Rua da Relação
or buy one in Arpoador at Galeria River (Map
Volleyball is Brazil’s second most popular
Rua de Santa Luzia
20
pp140-1 ; Rua Francisco Otaviano 67, Arpoador; per day
sport (after football) and a natural activity
Rua Dos Arcos
Av Mem de Sá
Rua Evaristo da Veiga
R$30), a commercial center full of surf shops
for the beach. A local variation of the sport,
Rua do Rezende
Av Presidente Wilson
and boutiques.
seen on Rio’s beaches, is futevôlei. It’s a cross
19
Arcos do Lapa
You’ll find informal surf schools scattered
between volleyball and football – but no
Rua Teixeira de Freitas
Rua do Passeio
along the beaches of Ipanema, Leblon and
hands allowed.
Rua Teixeira de
Barra da Tijuca. Most charge around R$20
Usually played on the firm sand at the
Rua do Riachuelo
Freitas
per hour.
shoreline, frescobol involves two players, each
162 R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • C o u r s e s
l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m
l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m
R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • R i o f o r C h i l d re n 163 RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
record and CD stalls. Next to it is the Cen-
far as Campo de Santana. Make a U-turn there
Núcleo de Dança (Map pp144-5 ; %2221 1011; 2nd fl,
Terra Encantada (Map p137 ; %2421 9444; www.terra
tro Cultural Justiça Federal (4; %2510 8846; Av Rio
and proceed back along Rua Senhor dos Pas-
Rua da Carioca 14, Centro) On the northern edge of Lapa;
-encantada.com.br in Portuguese; Av Ayrton Senna 2800,
Branco 241; admission free; hnoon-7pm Tue-Sun), which
sos. Take a right on Rua Regente Feijó. When
offers classes on forró, tango, salsa and samba. Instructor
Barra da Tijuca; adult/child R$36/18; h2-9pm Fri-Sun)
hosts changing contemporary exhibitions.
this street ends take a short left and then a
Marcia Pinheiro is flexible – you can usually drop in and
The Enchanted Land includes Cabhum, a 64m, 100km/h
The solid Biblioteca Nacional (5; %2262 8255; Av
right and head down Rua do Lavradio. This
join a class. Most are held during the day – around noon –
free fall, and Ressaca, a toboggan ride that goes over a
Rio Branco 219; admission free; hnoon-8pm Mon-Fri) is
street is famous for its antique shops set in the
so stop in to see what’s on.
waterfall, among many other rides.
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
next door, while north on Av Rio Branco is
colorful 19th-century buildings. A number
another historic building, today hosting the
of great nightspots, such as Rio Scenarium (17;
Language
TOURS
Museu Nacional de Belas Artes (6; p154 ). Take a
p180 ), feature excellent samba bands playing
Many hostels advertise freelance language
Favela Tours
peek inside to see some of Rio’s best-known
in restored colonial buildings.
teachers who offer private and small-group
Marcelo Armstrong (%3322 2727; www.favelatour
19th-century painters.
When you reach Av República do Chile
lessons, which are often more economical
.com.br; per person R$60) The pioneer of favela tourism,
Now cross Av Rio Branco and walk in front
take a left and stop in the Catedral Metropoli-
than studying through a school.
Marcelo takes small groups to visit the favelas of Rocinha
of the Teatro Municipal, then take a left down
tana (18; p155 ) for a glimpse of the church’s
Instituto Brasil-Estados Unidos (IBEU; Map pp140-1 ;
and Vila Canoas near São Conrado, where he does an excel-
Av 13 de Maio. Cross Av Almirante Barrosoa
marvelous stained-glass windows. When you
%2548 8430; www.ibeu.org.br in Portuguese; 5th fl, Av
lent job explaining the social and political context of the
and you’re in the Largo da Carioca (7), a pedes-
leave, head back to Rua do Lavradio for more
NS de Copacabana 690, Copacabana; 4-week course, meet-
favela in relation to greater Rio de Janeiro. Marcelo’s outfit
trian area that gets packed with vendors dur-
window shopping. When you reach Av Mem
ing 3 times per week R$1000) One of the most respected
donates a portion of its profits to favela social projects.
ing the week. Up on the hill is the recently
de Sá, take a left and follow the road around
language institutions in the city, IBEU has four levels of
Paulo Amendoim (%3322 8498, 9747 6860; paulo
restored Convento Santo Antônio (8; p153 ). The
the curve as you pass beneath the Arcos do
classes (beginner to advanced). Classes typically meet for
amendoim@hotmail.com; 2-3hr tour per person R$60)
original church here was started in 1608, mak-
Lapa (19). This is Rio’s big samba center at
two hours a day, Monday through Thursday for four weeks.
Former president of Rocinha’s resident association, Paulo
ing it one of Rio’s oldest.
night, with clubs and old-school bars scat-
leads tours through Rio’s biggest favela and offers visitors
Gazing south from the convent, you’ll
tered all over the neighborhood. When you
RIO FOR CHILDREN
the chance to see beneath the stereotypes that characterize
notice the Petrobras building (9), whose box-
reach the Largo da Lapa, a small plaza along
Brazilians are very family-oriented. Many
favela life.
like metal chassis seems to cast an ominous
which a restaurant and a few samba clubs are
hotels let children stay free, although the age
shadow over the area. Behind it is the ultra-
scattered, take a left and walk along Rua do
limit varies. Babysitters are readily available
Walking Tours
modern Catedral Metropolitana.
Passeio. You’ll have great views of the arches
and most restaurants have high chairs.
Cultural Rio (%3322 4872, 9911 3829; www.culturalrio
Come back down from the church and
from here. In two more blocks you’ll be back
Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children, by
.com.br; 4hr tour per person from R$100) Run by the loqua-
take a right on Rua da Carioca and a left on
to where you started. When you reach Praça
Cathy Lanigan, gives a lot of good tips and
cious and erudite Carlos Roquette, this tour offers visitors
Rua Gonçalves Dias and stop in the Confeitaria
Floriano, stop in at Ateliê Odeon (20; p175 ) or
advice on traveling with kids in the tropics.
an in-depth look at social and historical aspects of Rio de
Colombo (10; p173 ) for a serving of caffeine,
Amarelinho (21; p178 ) for a chope or juice, a
There’s plenty of good spade and sand-
Janeiro. Itineraries include a night at the Teatro Municipal,
cake and art nouveau. Head back to Rua da
refreshing cap to the walk.
bucket fun to be had on Rio’s beaches, partic-
colonial Rio, baroque Rio, imperial Rio and a walking tour
Carioca. Along this street, you’ll find an array
ularly Leblon’s posto 12, known as Baixo Bébe
of Centro. Professor Roquette has been in business for over
of old shops, a slice out of 19th-century Rio.
COURSES
for its mini-playground and all the moms
20 years.
Bar Luiz (11; p175 ), at number 39, makes a fine
Dance
and tots around. Other amusement for kids
Fabio Sombra (%2275 8605; www.fasombra.cjb.net;
stop for a bite or a chope (draft beer).
Given the resurgent popularity of dance hall
includes the shows and exhibits at the Plan-
tour for 4 people R$200) A multilingual artist still active as
At the end of the block you’ll pass the Cin-
samba throughout the city, it’s not surprising
etário ( p128 ), the animals of Jardim Zoológico at
an arte naïf painter, Fabio leads tours around Centro and
ema Iris (12), which used to be one of Rio’s most
that there are a number of places where you
Quinta da Boa Vista ( p156 ), the impressive ships
Santa Teresa. His most popular tour covers the ruins of the
elegant theaters, and emerge into the hustle of
can learn the moves – then practice them –
at Espaço Cultural da Marinha ( p153 ), and the
old port and historical sites around Praça XV de Novembro,
Praça Tiradentes (13). On opposite sides of the
in Lapa.
mechanized displays at the Museu de Folclórico
the Mosteiro de São Bento and the Catedral Metropolitana,
square are the Teatro João Caetano and the
Casa de Dança Carlinhos de Jesus (Map pp142-3 ;
Edson Carnerio ( p151 ). You can also hire bikes
passing through Lapa and ending in Santa Teresa.
Teatro Carlos Gomez, historic buildings that
%2541 6186; www.carlinhosdejesus.com.br in Portu-
(including big, shaded four-seaters) and visit
Luiz Amaral Tours (%2259 5532; www.travelrio.com;
still stage some excellent music, dance and
guese; Rua Álvaro Ramos 11, Botafogo) At this respected
the playground near the bike stand at Lagoa
tour per person around R$100) A friendly, well-traveled
theater performances. Around the corner is
dance academy, Carlinhos and his instructors give samba,
Rodrigo de Freitas ( p128 ).
Carioca with a good command of English, Luiz offers small-
the Centro Cultural Carioca (14; p124 ). Stop in
forró, salsa and hip-hop classes in the evenings from about
In addition, children may also enjoy the
group tours around Rio, including visits to Santa Teresa, an
here to see what’s on musically for the evening.
7pm to 10pm.
following sights:
exploration of beaches south of Barra and nightlife tours
Just across from the theater is the Real Gabinete
Centro Cultural Carioca (Map pp144-5 ; %2252
Mini-Rio (Map p137 ; 1st fl, Barra Shopping, Av das Améri-
in Rio.
Português de Leitura (15; p154 ), with a lovely
6468; www.centroculturalcarioca.com.br in Portuguese;
cas, Barra da Tijuca; h10am-10pm) Small amusement
Private Tours (%2232 9710; www.privatetours.com.br)
collection of books. For a taste of modern
Rua do Teatro 37, Centro; 4-week course, meeting twice
area with bumper cars, boat and plane rides for little ones.
Pedro Novak has been leading excursions around the city
art, cross Av Passos and visit the avant-garde
per week R$65; hnoon-8pm Mon-Sat) An excellent
Museu Aerospacial (Map p137 ; %2108 8954; www
and further afield since 1992. He also offers jeep tours
Centro de Arte Hélio Oiticica (16; p153 ).
place to take classes. Its large dance hall hosts live samba
.musal.aer.mil.br in Portuguese; Av Marechal Fontenele
to Tijuca and Praia de Grumari as well as trips to Paraty,
Afterwards, continue west to Rua Gonçalves
parties on Friday.
2000, Campo dos Afonsos; admission free; h9am-3pm
Parque Nacional de Itatiaia and beyond. He speaks English,
Ledo and take a right. When you reach Rua da
Estudantina Café (Map pp144-5 ; %2242 5062; Praça
Tue-Fri, 9:30am-4pm Sat & Sun) Expositions on Santos
French, Spanish, Italian and Portuguese.
Alfândega turn left. This will take you into the
Tiradentes 79, Centro) A broad mix of skilled and unskilled
Dumont (the Brazilian father of aviation) and the role of
heart of Saara, a longstanding neighborhood
dancers meets for Tuesday- and Friday-night classes at
Brazil’s air force in WWII. Lots of old planes, including
Bay Tours
bazaar packed with shops, pedestrians and
a cultural center and samba club. Excellent parties are
replicas of Santos Dumont’s planes: the 14 Bis and the
Macuco Rio (Map pp144-5 ; %9200 3569; www.macuco
Lebanese restaurants. Walk, shop and snack as
thrown here on weekends. See p179 for details.
Demoiselle.
rio.com.br; Marina de Glória, Glória; cruise R$50-100) Macuco’s
164 R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com
R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • S l e e p i n g 165 RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
high-velocity 28-seat speedboat offers a more exhilarating
Sexta-Feira da Paixão March or April – Good Friday is
bay tour. Trips circle around the bay or head to Cagarras
celebrated throughout the city. The most important cere-
LONG-TERM RENTALS
Archipelago, for bird- and possibly dolphin-spotting.
mony is a reenactment of the Stations of the Cross under the
If you’re planning to stay in Rio for longer than a few nights, you may consider renting an apart-
Marlin Yacht Tours (Map pp144-5 ; %2225 7434;
Arcos do Lapa, carried out by more than a hundred actors.
ment, which is often much better value than staying in a hotel. The following agencies are adept
www.marlinyacht.com.br; Marina da Glória, Glória; cruise
Portas Abertas One weekend in May and in November –
at accommodating foreign visitors and can often arrange airport transportation, cell phone hire
R$40-70) Marlin offers several tours aboard their large 30-
Santa Teresa’s artists open their studios and the neighbor-
and provide other services. Apartments start at R$120 per night.
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
person schooners to Cagarras Island, stopping for a beach
hood becomes a living installation in this twice-yearly
Blame it on Rio 4 Travel (Map pp140-1 M04B1; %3813 5510; www.blameitonrio4travel.com; Rua Xavier da Silveira
swim along the way. They also offer a sunset cruise and
event. Dates change so stop by at Cama e Café ( p169 ) or
15B, Copacabana) This popular agency rents many types of apartments; it also rents cell phones and provides many
sailing and diving trips.
Parque das Ruinas ( p155 ) for more information.
other services.
Saveiros Tours (Map pp144-5 ; %2225 6064; www
Festas Juninas June – The June Festival is one of the
Copacabana Holiday (Map pp140-1 ; %2542 1525; www.copacabanaholiday.com.br; Rua Barata Ribeiro 90A,
.saveiros.com.br; Marina de Glória, Glória; cruise R$40-70)
most important folkloric festivals in Brazil. In Rio, it’s
Copacabana) Specializing in Copacabana, this agency rents apartments for a minimum of three days.
These bay tours involve two-hour cruises out over Baía de
celebrated in various public squares throughout the month,
Fantastic Rio (Map pp140-1 ; %2543 2667; Apt 501, Av Atlântica 974, Leme) Multilingual Peter Corr of Fantastic
Guanabara in large schooners.
primarily on June 13 (Dia de Santo Antônio), June 24 (Dia
Rio rents everything from modest one-bedrooms to spacious four-bedrooms with beach views.
de São João) and June 29 (Dia de São Pedro).
Rio Apartments (Map pp138-9 ; %2235 7180; www.rioapartments.com; Suite 301, Rua Farme de Amoedo 76,
Other Tours
Festa da São Pedro do Mar July 13 – The fishing
Ipanema) This highly professional outfit offers a wide selection of apartments in the Zona Sul, and can arrange cell
Bonde Histórico (%2215 8581; per person R$12;
community pays homage to its patron saint in a maritime
phone rental, airport transport and more.
hdepart 10am & 2pm Sat) Three-hour tram tours run
procession. Decorated boats leave from the fishing district
Vanna Rocha (%2548 5030; www.vannarioflats.com.br) Vanna maintains a website of competitively priced
by the Museu do Bonde (Tram Museum). Guided tours of
of Caju and sail to the statue of São Pedro in Urca.
apartment listings for Leblon, Ipanema and Copacabana. English spoken.
the Santa Teresa neighborhood illuminate historic points
Festa de NS da Glória do Outeiro August 15 – A solemn
Yvonne Reimann (Map pp140-1 ; %2227 0281; Apt 605, Av Atlântica 4066, Copacabana) Yvonne rents a range
along the journey from downtown to the neighborhood
Mass is held in the Igreja de NS da Glória do Outeiro, which
of apartments in the area. She speaks French, German and English.
of Silvestre and back, with a stop at the Museu do Bonde.
is ablaze with decorated lights, with a procession into the
Trams depart from the bonde station (Map pp144–5 ) on
streets of Glória to mark the Feast of the Assumption. This
Rua Lélio Gama in Centro.
festival includes music and colorful stalls set up in the Praça
(December through February), and triple dur-
R$45/130) Part of a small empire of hostels in
Be a Local (%9643 0366; www.bealocal.com; per person
NS da Glória. Festivities start at 8am and continue all day.
ing New Year’s Eve and Carnaval. Most ho-
the Zona Sul, Che Lagarto’s Ipanema branch
R$30-60) Popular with backpackers, Be a Local offers group
Dia de Independência do Brasil September 7 – In-
tels will only book in four-day blocks around
is a five-story hostel, with tiny, basic rooms
tours with a younger, edgier flavor. They offer favela tours
dependence Day is celebrated with a big military parade
these holidays.
and not much common space – aside from
(where you’ll ride to the top of the favela by mototaxi), out-
down Av Presidente Vargas. It starts at 8am at Candelária
Keep in mind that some hotels add in
the pricey bar on the 1st floor.
ings to football matches at Maracanã and trips to evening
and goes just past Praça Onze, north of the Sambódromo.
a combined 15% service and tax charge,
Ipanema Beach House (Map pp138-9 ; %3202 2693;
favela parties. Tours include pickup from your hostel/hotel.
Rio International Film Festival September and
though cheaper places don’t generally bother
www.ipanemahouse.com; Rua Barão da Torre 485, Ipanema;
Helisight (%2511 2141, 2542 7895; www.helisight.com
October – The festival is one of the biggest in Latin
with this.
dm/d R$45/140; is) One of Rio’s loveliest
.br; per person 6min/30min R$150/520) Offering helicopter
America. Over 200 films from all over the world are shown
hostels, the Ipanema Beach House is a con-
tours since 1991, Helisight has eight different itineraries,
at some 35 theaters. The festival usually runs for 15 days
Ipanema & Leblon
verted two-story house with six- and nine-bed
all giving a close-up view of Cristo Redentor and gorgeous
from the last week of September through to the first week
Ocean views with access to Rio’s loveliest
dorms (with three-tiered bunk beds). There
views over the city. Price includes pick-up and drop-off from
of October. Check the website (www.festivaldorio.com.br in
beaches, restaurants and bars make Ipanema
are also several private rooms, spacious in-
hotel. There is a three-person minimum.
Portuguese) for details.
and Leblon a magnet among travelers. Not
door and outdoor lounge spaces, a small bar
Jeep Tour (%2589 0883; www.jeeptour.com.br;
Rio Jazz Festival October – Features three nights of
surprisingly, prices here are higher than
and a pool.
4hr-tour incl hotel pick-up & drop-off per person around
great music. National and international acts present a wide
elsewhere.
R$150) Jeep Tour offers travel to the Parque Nacional da
variety of music – not just jazz. Dates vary from year to year.
MIDRANGE & TOP END
Tijuca atop a large, convertible jeep. The tour includes a
Festa da Penha October and November – This is one
BUDGET
Margarida’s Pousada (Map pp138-9 ; %2239 1840;
stop at the Vista Chinesa, then on to the forest for an easy
of the largest religious and popular festivals in the city. It
Casa 6 Ipanema (%2247 1384; www.casa6ipanema.com;
margaridacaneiro@hotmail.com; Rua Barão da Torre 600,
hike and a stop for a swim beneath a waterfall, before
takes place every Sunday in October and the first Sunday
House 14, Rua Barão da Torre 175, Ipanema; dm/d with fan
Ipanema; s/d/apt from R$75/120/140; a) This excel-
making the return journey.
in November, at Igreja NS da Penha de França, Largo da
R$40/120) On Ipanema’s hostel row, this place
lently located Ipanema guesthouse has pleas-
Penha 19 in Penha. It’s very lively.
has clean, basic, and extremely small rooms
ant, simply furnished rooms popular with
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Reveillon & Festa de Iemanjá December 31 – New
(with triple bunk beds), but staff is friendly
young (French) travelers. There’s also a big-
Aside from Carnaval, there are many other ex-
Year’s Eve (Reveillon) in Rio is celebrated by millions
and helpful and it’s in a great location.
ger private apartment available for rent in a
citing events happening throughout the year.
of people. Tons of fireworks explode in the sky over
Lighthouse Hostel (%2522 1353; www.thelighthouse
building nearby.
Dia de São Sebastião January 20 – The patron saint of
Copacabana. New Year’s Eve coincides with the festival of
.com.br; House 20, Rua Barão da Torre 175, Ipanema; dm/d
Hotel San Marco (Map pp138-9 ; %2540 5032; www
the city is commemorated with a procession that carries
Iemanjá, the sea goddess. Wearing white, the faithful carry
R$45/120; ai) Along with a handful of other
.sanmarcohotel.net; Rua Visconde de Pirajá 524, Ipanema; s/d
his image from the Igreja de São Sebastião dos Capuchinos
a statue of Iemanjá to the beach and launch flowers and
budget spots on this quiet lane, the Light-
from R$150/160; as) It’s all about location if
in Tijuca (Rua Haddock Lobo 266) to the Catedral Metro-
other offerings into the sea.
house has an easygoing vibe and clean, simple
you stay at the San Marco. Rooms are clean
politana, where it’s blessed in a Mass celebrated by the
rooms that attract a good mix of backpackers.
but cramped, and the green bedspreads aren’t
archbishop of Rio de Janeiro.
SLEEPING
Accommodations consist of eight-bed dorm
winning any style awards.
Dia da Fundação da Cidade March 1 – The founding of
Reservations are a good idea in Rio, and
rooms and one private double.
Hotel Vermont (Map pp138-9 ; %2522 0057, fax 2267
the city by Estácio de Sá in 1565 is commemorated with a
you can often save by booking ahead.
Che Lagarto Ipanema (Map pp138-9 ; %2512 8076;
7046; Rua Visconde de Pirajá 254, Ipanema; s/d R$150/185;
Mass in the church of its patron saint, São Sebastião.
Hotel rates rise during the summer months
www.chelagarto.com; Rua Paul Redfern 48, Ipanema; dm/d
as) The Hotel Vermont offers no-frills
166 R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • S l e e p i n g
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com
R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • S l e e p i n g 167 RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
accommodations in a high-rise a few blocks
R$322/360; s) The 15-story Sol Ipanema has
lounge room (with cable TV) and a bedroom.
have partial sea views. Rooms are comfortable
from the beach. Hotel Vermont’s small rooms
an enviable position overlooking the beach.
Furnishings here are dated – floral patterns,
but compact.
are in need of renovation. Still, the location
The well-decorated rooms feature dark-wood
dingy yellows and greens dominate – but for
Copacabana Hotel Residência (Map pp140-1 ; %2548
can’t be beat.
furnishings and good lighting. Oceanfront
the price it’s a good deal.
7212; www.copahotelresid.com.br; Rua Barata Ribeiro 222, Co-
Ipanema Flat Hotel Residência (Map pp138-9 ;
rooms cost about 20% more and are a worthy
Hotel Santa Clara (Map pp140-1 ; %2256 2650; www
pacabana; d R$220; as) A few blocks from the
%2523 1292; ipanemaflat_ipanema@yahoo.com.br; Rua
splurge if you can swing it.
.hotelsantaclara.com.br; Rua Décio Vilares 316, Copacabana; s/d
beach, the Copacabana Hotel Residência has
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
Gomes Carneiro 137, Ipanema; s/d R$170/190) The place
Marina All Suites (Map pp138-9 ; %2540 5212; www
from R$140/153) Up the street from a neighbor-
70 spacious suites with small kitchen units,
is suffering from a bad case of style envy:
.marinaallsuites.com.br; Av Delfim Moreira 696, Leblon; ste from
hood park lies the Hotel Santa Clara, with
living rooms and clean, well-maintained quar-
cheaply furnished rooms are seriously short
R$695) Marina All Suites offers style and com-
its whitewashed exterior and blue shutters.
ters, though it’s very cheaply furnished.
on it and just aching to get some. The simple
fort with wonderful ocean views. Elegantly
The upstairs rooms are best, complete with
Hotel Debret (Map pp140-1 ; %2522 0132; www
apartments have kitchens, balconies (no view)
furnished suites have decent sound systems
wood floors, a writing desk and a refreshing
.debret.com; Av Atlântica 3564, Copacabana; d from R$230)
and bland but clean bedrooms at prices hard
and space enough for you to host your own
balcony.
The Hotel Debret is a traditional hotel in a
to find elsewhere in this neighborhood.
small parties. The rooftop pool, lounge space
Ducasse Rio Hotel (Map pp140-1 ; %2522 1191; www
converted apartment building. It has sim-
Ipanema Sweet (Map pp138-9 ; %2551 0488; Rua Vis-
and small movie theater are nice touches. Bar
.hotelducasse.com.br in Portuguese; Rua Sá Ferreira 76, Co-
ple colonial-style furnishings and great
conde de Pirajá 161, Ipanema; s/d apt from R$200; s) The
D’Hotel ( p177 ), on the 2nd floor, attracts the
pacabana; s/d R$160/170; s) At this price bracket,
views from the top-floor restaurant. The
modern, furnished apartments at this amiable
beauty crowd.
the Ducasse is ahead of the rest. The medium-
ocean-fronting rooms (luxos; luxury rooms)
spot each have a kitchen, lounge and balcony
sized rooms are simply furnished but bright
are recommended.
(no view), and are good value. A mix of Bra-
Copacabana & Leme
and cozy. All rooms ending in 1, 2, 3 and 4
Orla Copacabana (Map pp140-1 ; %2525 2425; www
zilians and international visitors consistently
Copacabana, particularly Av Atlântica, is
have balconies, which are just large enough to
.orlahotel.com.br; Av Atlântica 4122, Copacabana; d from R$275;
rate the place well.
packed with hotels. Quality and price varies
step out onto and take a breath of ocean air.
as) The entrance to the Orla Copacabana
Arpoador Inn (Map pp138-9 ; %2523 0060; www
considerably, and many places are in dire need
Hotel Vilamar (Map pp140-1 ; %3461 5601; www
is past sleek lounge chairs, artfully lit flower
.riodejaneiroguide.com/hotel/arpoador_inn.htm; Rua Francisco
of a makeover.
.hotelvilamarcopacabana.com.br; Rua Bolívar 75, Copacabana;
arrangements and giant canvases along the
Otaviano 177, Ipanema; d with/without ocean view R$390/205;
s/d from R$160/180; as) Fairly new on the block,
wall. Upstairs, the design falters a bit but still
a) This six-story is the only hotel in town
BUDGET
the 15-story Vilamar is on a quiet street and
presents modern furnishings, marble-fixtured
that doesn’t have a busy street between it and
Rio Backpackers (Map pp140-1 ; %2236 3803; www
has pleasant clean-swept rooms with cheery
bathrooms and decent views. There’s a rooftop
the beach. That said, Arpoador Inn is disap-
.riobackpackers.com.br; Travessa Santa Leocádia 38, Copac-
bedspreads and big windows.
pool and patio.
pointing, with worn carpets and small rooms,
abana; dm/d from R$30/90; ai) Young backpack-
Apa Hotel (Map pp140-1 ; %2548 8112; www.apahotel
oRio Guesthouse (Map pp140-1 ; %2521 8568;
and it’s not worth staying if you don’t pay for
ers flock to this popular three-story hostel.
.com.br; Rua República do Peru 305, Copacabana; s/d R$165/180)
www.rioguesthouse.com; Rua Francisco Sá 5, Copacabana; d
an ocean view.
The rooms are small and basic, and there are
The Apa is dated but has helpful staff and
R$280-450; a) On the top floor of a high-rise
Ipanema Inn (Map pp138-9 ; %2523 6092; www
choice spots to chill out. Staff has all the low-
clean rooms. Some rooms have balconies.
overlooking Copacabana Beach, this small
.riodejaneiroguide.com/hotel/ipanema_inn.htm; Rua Maria
down on the city’s nightlife.
Hotel Toledo (Map pp140-1 ; %2257 1995; www
guesthouse offers handsomely decorated
Quitéria 27, Ipanema; s/d from R$240/270; a) Simple but
Mellow Yellow Hostel (Map pp140-1 ; %2547 1993;
.hoteltoledo.com.br; Rua Domingos Ferreira 71, Copacabana;
rooms in a welcoming setting. There’s also a
attractive, Ipanema Inn’s rooms are pleasant
www.mellowyellow.com.br; Rua General Barbosa Lima 51, Co-
s/d R$165/195; a) A block from the beach, the
sunny patio overlooking Copacabana Beach.
with nice touches including woodblock prints
pacabana; dm/d from R$30/100; ai) Copacabana’s
Toledo has aging, simply furnished rooms
Design Hotel Portinari (Map pp140-1 ; %3222 8800;
on the walls and modern bathrooms with full
biggest hostel, Mellow Yellow attracts young
with either carpet or tile floors. Some have
www.hotelportinari.com.br; Rua Francisco Sá 17, Copacabana;
tubs. Friendly, multilingual staff.
travelers, who are willing to endure rustic ac-
ocean views.
d from R$290; a) This stylish 13-story hotel has
Everest Park (Map pp138-9 ; %2525 2200; www
commodations in exchange for party atmos-
Atlantis Copacabana (Map pp140-1 ; %2521 1142;
artfully lit rooms with comfortable beds, big
.everest.com.br; Rua Maria Quitéria 19, Ipanema; d from
phere – complete with a bar, ample lounge
www.atlantishotel.com.br; Rua Bulhões de Carvalho 61, Co-
windows and tile floors. The top-floor restau-
US$140) Just a block from the beach in a fantas-
space, a patio with spa and barbecue nights.
pacabana; s/d R$180/200; s) Between Copacabana
rant is set with tropical plants and boasts fine
tic neighborhood, Everest Park is a fine hotel.
Dorm rooms have anywhere from four to 24
and Ipanema, Atlantis is in a good location for
views through the floor-to-ceiling windows.
The multilingual staff is very approachable,
beds; the cheapest lack air-conditioning.
exploring either neighborhood. The rooms
Parthenon Arpoador (Map pp140-1 ; %3222 9600;
and the rooms are comfortable and nicely
Jucati (Map pp140-1 ; %2547 5422; www.edificiojucati
here are short on elegance and inexpensively
www.mercure.com.br in Portuguese; Rua Francisco Otaviano
maintained. A woodsy smell in the corridors
.com.br; Rua Tenente Marones de Gusmão 85, Copacabana; dm
furnished, but rooms above the 9th floor
61, Copacabana; ste from R$340; as) The all-suites
brings a scent of the country to the place.
R$30, apt s/d/tr/q R$100/120/140/160; ai) Overlook-
have views.
Parthenon Arpoador has rooms with sleek
Ritz Plaza Hotel (Map pp138-9 ; %2540 4940; www
ing a leafy park, this unsigned building hides
Acapulco (Map pp140-1 ; %2275 0022; www.acapulco
white leather sofas that open into beds, mod-
.ritzhotel.com.br; Av Ataulfo de Paiva 1280, Leblon; d R$310-345,
one of Copacabana’s best deals. In addition to
hotel.com.br; Rua Gustavo Sampaio 854, Leme; d from R$190;
ern kitchenettes, TVs with stereo and DVD
apt R$450; as) This elegant all-suites hotel is
dorms, there are simple apartments with small
a) After a much-needed renovation in 2005,
player, ambient lighting and comfortable bed-
in a sublime part of Leblon. Rooms are nicely
kitchens and room enough to sleep up to six.
Acapulco offers modern, streamlined rooms
rooms. All have verandas – though there’s no
furnished with artwork on the walls, good
on a quiet street one block from the beach. It
view. In addition to a long, narrow swimming
lighting and spotless bedrooms, and all have
MIDRANGE & TOP END
has a handful of suites for those seeking a bit
pool, there’s also a sauna and workout room.
balconies – some with partial ocean views. The
Residencial Apartt (Map pp140-1 ; %2522 1722; www
more room.
Le Meridien (Map pp140-1 ; %3873 8888; mail@
one-bedroom apartments have small kitchens
.apartt.com.br; Rua Francisco Otaviano 42, Arpoador; s/d
Copacabana Praia Hotel (Map pp140-1 ; %2522 5646;
lemeridien-riodejaneiro.com; Av Atlântica 1020, Leme; d from
and a separate lounge/dining area.
R$116/182) Located in Arpoador between Co-
www.copacabanapraiahotel.com.br; Rua Francisco Otaviano 30,
R$380) A decadent affair, Le Meridien has all
Sol Ipanema (Map pp138-9 ; %2525 8484; www
pacabana and Ipanema, this hotel has 25 one-
Copacabana; d R$200; as) All rooms in the 11-
the trappings of luxury: crisply dressed staff,
.solipanema.com.br; Av Vieira Souto 320, Ipanema; s/d from
bedroom suites, each with a small kitchen, a
story hotel have balconies and top-floor digs
elegant lobby, excellent French restaurant on
168 R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • S l e e p i n g
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com
R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • E a t i n g 169 RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
the 37th floor. The rooms are comfortable
beds are features in some. Others are simple,
BUDGET & MIDRANGE
offers a range of spacious rooms with high
and spacious but hardly inspiring. The view,
straightforward affairs.
Pousada Favelinha (Map pp142-3 ; www.favelinha.com;
ceilings, wood floors and a light, airy design.
however, is, so be sure to book the luxo.
Hotel Ferreira Viana (Map pp142-3 ; %2205 7396;
Rua Antonio Joaquim 13, Morro do Pereirão da Silva; dm/d
It’s set in a mid-19th-century mansion and
Copacabana Palace (Map pp140-1 ; %2548 7070;
Rua Ferreira Viana 58, Catete; s/d R$55/75; a) The best
R$35/75) This clean, attractive guesthouse is
has an outdoor terrace with a garden and
www.copacabanapalace.com.br; Av Atlântica 1702, Copac-
rooms here have good light, bright tiled floors,
one of the only guesthouses of its kind in
lounge space.
abana; d from R$880) The city’s most famous hotel,
modern furnishings and plenty of space. Not
Brazil. Located in the Favela Pereirão da Silva,
oSolar de Santa (Map pp144-5 ; %2221
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
the Palace has hosted heads of state and rock
all the rooms are decent, however, so see a few
Favelinha has four double rooms and a 5-bed
2117; www.solardesanta.com; Ladeira do Meireles 32; d
stars (including the Rolling Stones in 2005).
before committing.
dorm room, all with balconies that have stun-
R$385-565; as) Set in a converted colonial
The dazzling white facade dates from the
Hotel Turístico (Map pp144-5 ; %2557 7698; fax 2558
ning views over the city to Pão de Açúcar.
villa, this marvelous boutique hotel has
1920s, when the hotel became a symbol of
9388; Ladeira da Glória 30, Glória; s/d R$60/80; a) On a
There’s also a terrace, a lounge for guests,
beautifully designed rooms with wood floors
the city. Inside you’ll find a range of rooms, a
quiet street near the Igreja de NS da Glória
and lots of insider info from the welcoming
and colorful details. Rooms open onto a ve-
wonderful pool and excellent restaurants.
do Outeiro, the Turístico is a friendly spot
Brazilian-German owners. While the Pereirão
randa with splendid views through the lush
with clean, well-maintained rooms – some
da Silva is one of Rio’s more peaceful favelas,
foliage out front to downtown. Overlook-
Botafogo
with balconies.
this place isn’t for everyone – some love it;
ing the lush grounds is a patio, ideal for an
Although there aren’t many accommodations
Hotel Caxambu (Map pp142-3 ; %2265 9496; Rua
some don’t. To get there, take the bonde to
afternoon drink.
in the area, this is where you’ll find an au-
Corrêa Dutra 22, Catete; s/d R$65/75; a) This nicely
Colegio Asunção (Rua Almirante Alexan-
Mama Ruisa (Map pp144-5 ; %2242 1281; www
thentic slice of Rio – its tree-lined streets, old-
renovated place maintains a higher standard
drino 2024) and enter the favela through the
.mamaruisa.com; Rua Santa Cristina 132; d from €220;
school botecos and non-touristy restaurants.
than other budget options. Rooms are clean,
school grounds.
as) Another of Santa Teresa’s new bou-
El Misti Hostel (Map pp142-3 ;%2226 0991; www
though some lack natural light.
Rio Hostel (Map pp144-5 ; %3852 0827; www.rio
tique hotels, Mama Ruisa aims for bohemian
.elmistihostel.com; Praia do Botafogo 462, House 9, Botafogo;
hostel.com; Rua Joaquim Murtinho 361, Santa Teresa; dm/
chic in its seven spacious, uniquely designed
dm/s/d R$25/100/140, s/d without bathroom R$80/120;
MIDRANGE & TOP END
d/chalet R$37/100/120; as) A favorite among
guestrooms. Every whim is catered for in this
i) Located along Botafogo’s hostel row, El
Imperial Hotel (Map pp142-3 ; %2556 5212; www
travelers, Rio Hostel provides a home away
lovely converted colonial mansion, and guests
Misti is a popular budget spot among Brazil-
.imperialhotel.com.br; Rua do Catete 186, Catete; d from R$120;
from home, with handsomely designed
can opt for massages, private tours or just
ian and foreign travelers for its cheap dorm
as) A fair choice for Catete, this hotel is
rooms, a cozy lounge and a backyard patio.
enjoy the spectacular view over the bay from
rooms (with triple bunk beds) and lively at-
set in a lovely white three-story building. The
The spirit of bonhomie prevails with barbe-
the swimming pool.
mosphere. It’s a short walk to the Botafogo
rooms here are clean and modern, and luxos
cues and occasional jam sessions by guests
metro station.
have whirlpool tubs.
and local musicians.
EATING
O Veleiro (%2554 8980; s/d from US$62/69; as)
Mengo Palace Hotel (Map pp142-3 ; %2556 5343;
Cama e Café (Map pp144-5 ; %2224 5689; www
Rio has an impressive array of restaurants,
O Veleiro is a B&B surrounded by remnants of
mengohotel@infolink.com.br; Rua Corrêa Dutra 31, Flamengo;
.camaecafe.com.br; Rua Pascoal Carlos Magno 5; d from
serving Brazilian regional cuisine along with
Atlantic rain forest, offering attractive rooms
s/d ste from R$150/180; a) Mengo Palace is a clean,
R$90) Cama e Café is a B&B network that
international and fusion fare. In general,
in a friendly, welcoming setting. There’s a
modern all-suites hotel with a forlorn air
links travelers with local residents, making
Ipanema and Leblon boast Rio’s best din-
pool, backyard and splendid garden views
about it. The rooms are small with pressed
it a brilliant way to get an insider take on
ing scene, though every neighborhood has
over the hillside. It’s a 20-minute walk up
wood floors, carpeting on the walls and whirl-
the neighborhood. There’s a pool of some
its gems.
from Botafogo beach. The owners only give
pool bathtubs big enough for two. The beds
50 houses to choose from, and guests can
You can eat on the cheap (try per-kilo
out the address to those confirming reser-
are a little stiff.
select their accommodations by location and
places and juice bars), but it’s worth splash-
vations. For more information, call the tel-
Hotel Glória (Map pp144-5 ; %2555 7373; www
comfort level. Accommodations range from
ing out for a meal once and a while (dinner for
ephone number provided.
.hotelgloriario.com.br; Rua do Russel 632, Glória; d from R$165;
modest to lavish, with a decent breakfast and
two averaging R$80 to R$120) to enjoy fantas-
as) Once a grand 1920s beachfront hotel,
sizable rooms with private bathrooms com-
tic cuisine in some beautiful settings. Among
Flamengo, Catete & Glória
Glória still retains the aura of its past splendor,
mon to all. Check the website for listings.
Rio’s quintessential dining experiences: feast-
These middle-class neighborhoods have af-
when it overlooked prime beachfront. Red
Casa Áurea (Map pp144-5 ; %2242 5830; www
ing at a churrascaria (all-you-can-eat barbe-
fordable options if you don’t mind being far
carpets and old paintings line the hallways,
.casaaurea.com.br; Rua Áurea 80; d R$90-140) Set on a
cued meat restaurant), dining alfresco beside
from the beach.
along with antique fixtures and liberal use of
quiet street, this handsome two-story house
the lake in Lagoa, joining the fashion parade at
brass. Glória lost its glory when the tunnel to
has been converted into a simple guesthouse
a sidewalk café in Ipanema, chowing on local
BUDGET
Copacabana was constructed. If you stay here,
with pleasant, airy rooms and a small garden
favorites at a neighborhood boteco and linger-
Hotel Monterrey (Map pp142-3 ; %2265 9899; Rua Ar-
book your room in the old part of the hotel,
with hammocks out back.
ing over the sweeping views from a restaurant
turo Bernardes 39, Catete; s without bathroom R$30, s/d with
with its antique-filled rooms, fine verandas
Casa Mango Mango (Map pp144-5 ; %2508 6440;
patio in high-up Santa Teresa.
fan R$50/70) It’s a bit of a dump, but if you’re
and sitting rooms.
www.casamangomango.com; Rua Joaquim Murtinho 587;
short on cash, and have sworn off hostels,
dm R$35, d without/with bathroom R$120/168; is)
Ipanema & Leblon
Monterrey might be for you. Rooms are
Santa Teresa
In an atmospheric Victorian mansion, this
By day, Ipanema’s busy cafés and juice
small and basic and some lack windows.
A growing number of hotels have opened
friendly guesthouse has comfortable, spa-
bars fill with bronze bodies heading to and
Hotel Riazor (Map pp142-3 ; %2225 0121; hotel
in Santa Teresa in recent years, drawing
cious rooms and a lush garden and patio.
from the beach, while at night its tree-lined
riazor1@hotmail.com; Rua do Catete 160, Catete; s/d R$50/75;
travelers to this intriguing, arts-loving
Excellent breakfasts.
streets make a picturesque setting for open-
a) The pretty colonial facade of the Riazor
neighborhood. Do take care when walk-
Castelinho 38 (Map pp144-5 ; %2252 2549; www
air dining. Leblon’s Rua Días Ferreira and
hides basic quarters, which are not bad for
ing around, day or night, as muggings are
.castelinho38.com; Rua Triunfo 38; s/d from R$120/150; a)
Ipanema’s Rua Garcia D’Ávila are packed
the price. Sparkling wall paint and round
not uncommon.
Opened as a guesthouse in 2006, Castelinho
with dining options.
170 R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • E a t i n g
l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m
l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m
R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • E a t i n g 171 RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
For fresh tropical fruits, visit the feiras
Gula Gula (Map pp138-9 ; %2259 3084; Rua Aníbal de
East and West, match the seductive mood
B! (Map pp138-9 ; %2249 4977; Rua Visconde de Pirajá
(produce markets), which are on Monday on
Mendonça 132, Ipanema; mains R$20-30; hnoon-midnight)
inside. Upstairs, diners lounge on throw pil-
572, Ipanema; salads R$12-16; h9am-midnight Mon-Sat,
Rua Henrique Dumont (Ipanema), Tuesday
Gula Gula is a popular, low-key spot serving
lows, with candles glowing along the walls.
1pm-midnight Sun) On the 2nd floor of the book-
on Praça General Osório (Ipanema), Thurs-
quiches and salads, as well as grilled meats and
Those who prefer fresh air can dine on the
store Livraria da Travessa, this stylish café
day on Rua General Urquiza (Leblon) and
other Brazilian dishes. For dessert, try the rich
porch out front.
makes a cozy setting for a coffee, desserts or
Friday on Praça NS de Paz (Ipanema). On
chocolate mousse (order it quente, hot).
Casa da Feijoada (Map pp138-9 ; %2247 2776; Rua
a light meal.
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
Sunday, the Hippie Fair, in Praça General
Nam Thai (Map pp138-9 ; %2259 2962; Rua Rainha
Prudente de Morais 10B, Ipanema; feijoada R$37; hnoon-
Osório (Ipanema), has a stall in the southeast
Guilhermina 95B, Leblon; mains R$28-40; hlunch Tue-Sun,
11:30pm) At this longstanding institution, any
QUICK EATS & TAKE-OUT
corner of the plaza where you can buy tasty
dinner nightly) The charming, colonial Nam Thai
day is fine to sample the rich, black bean and
Cobal de Leblon (Map pp138-9 ; %2239 1549; Rua Gilberto
Northeastern cuisine. Don’t miss it.
features Thai and fusion dishes, such as spicy
salted pork dish. The feijoada is served with
Cardoso, Leblon; hclosed Sun) This charming market
shrimp curry with pineapple and squid salad.
the requisite orange slices, farofa (manioc
has lots of fruit and veggies for sale. You can
BUDGET
Don’t miss the caipivodca de lychee (litchi
flour sautéed with butter) and grated kale, all
also grab a bite at one of the many restaurants
Polis Sucos (Map pp138-9 ; %2247 2518; Rua Maria Quitéria
vodka caipirinha).
of which pair nicely with a caipirinha.
and cafés here.
70, Ipanema; juices R$3-4; h7am-midnight) Serving 40
Capricciosa (Map pp138-9 ; %2494 2212; Rua Vinícius
Fellini (Map pp138-9 ; %2511 3600; Rua General Ur-
HortiFruti (Map pp138-9 ; %2512 6820; Rua Días
or so juices, Polis Sucos is a great place to
de Moraes 134, Ipanema; mains R$29-41; hdinner) This
quiza 104, Leblon; per kg R$44; hlunch & dinner) Fellini’s
Ferreira 57, Leblon; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun)
get your vitamins, and you can pair those
trendy spot serves a huge variety of hand-
high-quality buffet has something for every-
Leblon’s popular indoor fruit and vegetable
tangy beverages with sandwiches (vegetarian,
somely prepared, thin-crust pizzas.
one: salads, pastas, grilled fish and shrimp,
market.
chicken, filet mignon).
Nik Sushi (Map pp138-9 ; %2512 6446; Rua Garcia
sushi and roast meats.
Zona Sul Supermarket (Map pp138-9 ; %2259 4699;
Fontes (Map pp138-9 ; %2512 5900; Rua Visconde de
D’Ávila 83, Ipanema; all-you-can-eat lunch/dinner R$29/41;
Sushi Leblon (Map pp138-9 ; %2512 7830; Rua Días
Rua Días Ferreira 290, Leblon; h24hr, closed midnight Sun to
Pirajá 605D, Ipanema; mains R$7-10; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat,
hlunch & dinner) Nik Sushi is an attractively set
Ferreira 256, Leblon; dinner for 2 R$75-150; hlunch &
7am Mon) The best branch of Rio’s supermarket
noon-8pm Sun) Hidden in a nondescript shop-
Japanese restaurant that’s much liked among
dinner) Leblon’s premier sushi destination,
chain stocks plenty of freshly baked breads,
ping plaza, this tiny, low-key restaurant serves
neighborhood regulars for its all-you-can-eat
Sushi Leblon boasts creative additions to
imported cheeses, wine, prosciutto and thou-
decent vegetarian meals. The menu changes
sushi specials.
its award-winning sashimi. The usual styl-
sands of other products.
daily but features shiitake-filled manioc pas-
Bazzar (Map pp138-9 ; %3202 2884; Rua Barão da Torre
ish crowd gathers here – and the wait can
Mustafá (Map pp138-9 ; %2540 7299; Av Ataulfo de
tries, green salads, roasted eggplant and the
538, Ipanema; mains R$30-45; hlunch & dinner) On a
be exhausting – so steel yourself with a few
Paiva 1174, Leblon; snacks R$2-8; hnoon-7pm) This
like. On Saturday, the rich, smoked-tofu fei-
quiet, tree-lined street, Bazzar is a handsomely
rounds of sake.
small take-out counter in Leblon serves fresh
joada draws a crowd.
designed contemporary restaurant, serving
pita bread, tabbouleh, hummus and quibe
Mel & Pimenta (Map pp138-9 ; %2227 1477; Rua
unique dishes like grilled namorada (a type
CAFÉS & DESSERT SHOPS
(cracked wheat stuffed with spiced meat, then
Visconde de Pirajá 44B, Ipanema; mains R$7-15; h9am-
of perch) with whole grain rice, citrus and
Kurt (Map pp138-9; %2294 0599; Rua General Urquiza
deep-fried).
6pm) This attractive, airy bistro serves fresh
pesto, and lamb with polenta and mushrooms.
117B, Leblon; desserts R$3-6; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) At
Mil Frutas (Map pp138-9 ; %2521 1384; Rua Garcia
salads, quiches, sandwiches, crepes and other
Outdoor seating in front.
Kurt, flaky strudels and palm-sized tortes
D’Ávila 134A, Ipanema; ice cream R$6-10; h10:30am-1am
light fare.
Osteria Dell’Angolo (Map pp138-9 ; %2259 3148; Rua
with strawberries and kiwifruit pair nicely
Mon-Fri, 9:30am-1am Sat & Sun) Mil Frutas serves
Delírio Tropical (Map pp138-9 ; %3201 2977; Rua
Paul Redfern 40, Ipanema; mains R$32-50; hnoon-4pm &
with cappuccinos.
sandwich wraps, as well as tasty ice cream
Garcia D’Ávila 48, Ipanema; salads R$8-12; h9am-9pm)
6pm until last customer Mon-Fri, 6pm until last customer
Armazém do Café (Map pp138-9 ; %2259 0170; Rua
that showcases fruits from the Amazon and
Delírio Tropical serves 16 different varie-
Sat & Sun) Northern Italian cuisine is served
Rita Ludolf 87B, Leblon; cappuccino R$4; h9am-midnight)
abroad. Try the jaca (jackfruit), litchi or
ties of salad along with soups and hot dishes
here with consummate skill, and the risotto
Dark wood furnishings and the scent of freshly
açai (berrylike fruit). There’s a small patio
(veggie burgers, grilled salmon). The open
nero di sepia (squid risotto in ink sauce) is
ground coffee lend an authenticity to this Leb-
in front.
layout has a pleasant, casual vibe, with big
one of the best dishes on the menu. Presi-
lon coffeehouse. Armazém also serves snacks
Frontera (Map pp138-9 ; %3289 2350; Rua Visconde de
windows overlooking the street. Breakfast
dent Lula, among other notable visitors, has
and desserts.
Pirajá 128, Ipanema; per kg R$35-38; h11am-11pm) Run
also served.
dined here.
Cafeína (Map pp138-9 ; %2521 2194; Rua Farme de
by a Dutch chef, Frontera offers more than 60
New Natural (Map pp138-9 ; %2287 0301; Rua Barão
Salitre (Map pp138-9 ; %3205 6977; Av General San
Amoedo 43, Ipanema; desserts R$6-8; h9am-8pm Sun & Mon,
plates at its delectable lunch buffet, featuring
da Torre 167, Ipanema; lunch specials R$12; h11am-6pm
Martín 857, Leblon; mains R$34-52; hbreakfast, lunch &
8am-11:30pm Tue-Sat) The popular café, in the heart
a medley of French, Thai, Italian, Indian and
Tue-Sun) Featuring an excellent lunch buffet
dinner Tue-Sun) Above a wine store and gourmet
of Ipanema, has outdoor tables for enjoying
other world flavors. It has cozier atmosphere
with many vegetarian options, New Natural
delicatessen, Salitre serves unique interna-
the waffles, desserts, coffees and espressos.
than most per-kilo places.
has fresh pots of soup, rice, veggies and beans
tional fare like sweet potato gnocchi with
Ateliê Culinário (Map pp138-9; %2239 2825; Rua
Da Silva (Map pp138-9 ; %2521 1289; Rua Barão da
for rock-bottom prices.
salmon as well as grilled dishes, and luscious
Días Ferreira 45, Leblon; desserts R$6-10; h6pm-1am
Torre 340, Ipanema; per kg R$36; h11:30-2am) Da Silva
desserts (just visit the counter on the first
Mon-Fri, 1pm-1am Sat & Sun) Offering a tempting
spreads a fine buffet of excellent Portuguese
MIDRANGE & TOP END
floor). Breakfast features homemade breads
assortment of desserts, this small outdoor
cuisine, including lamb stew, pork tender-
Vegetariano Social Club (Map pp138-9 ; %2540 6499;
(a rarity in these parts).
café is a good place to linger over dense
loin and delicate desserts.
Rua Conde de Bernadotte 26L, Leblon; mains R$14-24;
oZazá Bistrô Tropical (Map pp138-9 ;
cheesecake with guava sauce and/or moist
Garcia & Rodrigues (Map pp138-9 ; %3206 4100;
hnoon-5:30pm) On Saturday vegetarians can
%2247 9101; Rua Joana Angélica 40, Ipanema; mains R$35;
chocolate cake.
Av Ataulfo de Paiva 1251, Leblon; per kg R$40; h8am-
sample Brazil’s signature dish at this zenlike
h7:30pm-midnight) French-colonial decor and
Enviada (Map pp138-9 ; %2512 1313; Rua Días Ferreira
midnight Mon-Thu & Sun, to 1am Fri & Sat) This French
spot when tofu feijoada is served. Other of-
delicately spiced cuisine await those ventur-
45, Leblon; desserts R$6-10; hnoon-6pm) An elegant
restaurant has a lovely deli where you’ll find
ferings include salads, soups, sucos (juices)
ing inside this charming converted house in
café with heavenly chocolates, ice cream,
fresh bakery items, imported cheeses, salads,
and organic wine.
Ipanema. Inventive combinations, blending
cakes, teas and coffees.
wines and desserts.
172 R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • E a t i n g
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R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • E a t i n g 173 RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
Gávea, Jardim Botânico & Lagoa
charming old-fashioned bistros. Although the
in Brazil) community. Azumi’s sushiman
CAFÉS & DESSERT SHOPS
During the summer, live music fills the air
open-air restaurants along Av Atlântica have
(sushi chef) masterfully prepares delectable
Cafeína (Map pp140-1 ; %2547 8651; Rua Constante
as diners eat, drink and stroll along the lake.
a nice view, the food isn’t so hot, and things
sushi and sashimi. Tempuras and soups are
Ramos 44, Copacabana; pastries R$2-4; h8:30am-11:30pm
Rua Jota Jota Seabra is Jardim Botânico’s most
get a little seedy at night.
also excellent.
Tue-Sat, 9am-8:30pm Sun & Mon) A few blocks from
happening eating and drinking spot.
For fresh fruits, visit Copacabana feiras,
Copa Café (Map pp140-1 ; %2235 2947; Av Atlântica
the beach, Cafeína is a pleasant indoor and
Braseiro da Gávea (Map pp138-9 ; %2239 7494;
which happen on Wednesday on Rua Domin-
3056, Copacabana; mains R$20-44; h7pm-2am Tue-Sun)
outdoor spot that serves good coffee and a
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
Praça Santos Dumont 116, Gávea; mains R$16-24; h11am-
gos Ferreira, Thursday on Rua Belford Roxo
Facing the beach, this sleek, loungelike place
variety of baked goods.
midnight Mon-Sat) Extremely popular with the
and Rua Ronald de Carvalho, and Sunday on
has black wood floors, white bar stools, an
Bakers (Map pp140-1 ; %2256 7000; Rua Santa Clara
weekend crowd, this breezy bistro serves large
Rua Décio Vilares. Supermarkets include Pão
open layout and electronic music. The menu
86B, Copacabana; Danishes R$4; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to
portions of its popular steak, pot roast and
de Açúcar (Av NS de Copacabana 497; h24hr) and the
features high-end bistro fare: fresh fish, steak
6:30pm Sat, 9am-5pm Sun) Behind shiny counter-
fried chicken.
fruit-filled HortiFruti (Map pp140-1 ; Av Prado Junior 277;
and gourmet burgers.
tops are tasty banana Danishes, apple stru-
Arab da Lagoa (Map pp138-9 ; %2540 0747; Parque
h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun).
Carretão (Map pp140-1 ; %2542 2148; Rua Ronald de
dels and flaky croissants.
dos Patins, Av Borges de Medeiros, Lagoa; platter for 2 R$46;
Carvalho 55, Copacabana; all-you-can-eat R$28; h11:30am-
Confeitaria Colombo (Map pp140-1 ; %3201 4049;
h10am-1am) One of numerous outdoor res-
BUDGET
midnight) It’s all about the meat at this inexpen-
Forte de Copacabana, Praça Coronel Eugênio Franco, Copac-
taurants on the lake, this popular spot serves
Yonza (Map pp140-1 ; %2521 4248; Rua Miguel Lemos
sive churrascaria. There is another branch in
abana; snacks R$4-10; h10am-8pm Tue-Sun) Located
traditional Middle Eastern specialties like
21B, Copacabana; crepes R$10-16; h1pm-midnight lunch
Ipanema, at Rua Visconde de Pirajá 112.
inside the Forte de Copacabana (admission
hummus, baba ghanoush, tabbouleh, quibe
Tue-Fri, 6pm-midnight Sat & Sun) A young crowd
Amir (Map pp140-1 ; %2275 5596; Rua Ronald de
R$2), this café has shady outdoor tables with
and tasty thin-crust pizzas. The large platters
flocks to this colorful creperie at night to
Carvalho 55C, Copacabana; mains R$28-35, all-you-can-eat
magnificent views of Copacabana Beach.
for two or more are a good option for sharing.
fill up on hearty, inexpensive plates. Among
R$35; hlunch & dinner) Serving some of Rio’s
During the day, it’s a peaceful refuge from the
the favorites: picanha com gorgonzola (steak
best Middle Eastern dishes, this enticing
Botafogo & Urca
city, while at night you can hear live samba,
with gorgonzola).
two-story restaurant near the beach offers
Cobal de Humaitá (Map pp142-3 ; Rua Voluntários da Pátria
choro (romantic, intimate samba) or jazz from
Cervantes (Map pp140-1 ; %2275 6147; Av Prado Júnior
consistently good plates of hummus, kaftas
446, Botafogo; hclosed Sun) This place is a fruit
9pm (music charge R$6).
335B, Copacabana; sandwiches R$12-18; hnoon-late Tue-
(savory meatballs), falafel and salads. The
and flower market by day, with lively cafés
Guimas (Map pp138-9 ; %2259 7996; Rua José Roberto
Sun) This Copacabana institution gathers a
truly ravenous can opt for the rodízio (all-
and restaurants that open at night.
Macedo Soares 5, Gávea; mains R$24-36; hnoon-1am) A
mixed crowd who feast on trademark meat-
you-can-eat smorgasbord), brought to your
Livraria Prefácio (Map pp142-3 ; %2527 5699; Rua Vol-
classic open-air boteco with creative flair, Gui-
and-pineapple sandwiches. Fussy waiters are
table.
untários da Pátria 39, Botafogo; mains R$14-24; h2-10pm) In
mas has been going strong for over 20 years.
quick to the tap when your chope runneth dry.
Capricciosa (Map pp140-1 ; %2255 2598; Rua
the back of a small bookshop, this café is a
Trout with leeks and roast duck go well with
Around the corner, at Rua Barato Ribeiro 7, is
Domingos Ferreira 187, Copacabana; mains R$29-41;
charming spot for a light meal or a drink.
superfine caipivodcas (vodka caipirinhas).
Cervantes’ stand-up boteco, good for a meal
hdinner) This stylish spot serves excellent
Garota da Urca (Map pp142-3 ; %2541 8585; Av João
00 (Zero Zero; Map pp138-9 ; %2540 8041; Planetário,
in a hurry.
thin-crust pizzas.
Luís Alves 56, Urca; mains for two R$30-50; hnoon-2am)
Av Padre Leonel Franca 240, Gávea; mains R$30-45; h8pm-
Le Blé Noir (Map pp140-1 ; %2287 1272; Rua Xavier
Overlooking the small Praia da Urca, this
late) Inside Gávea’s planetarium, 00 is a sleek
MIDRANGE & TOP END
da Silveira 15A, Copacabana; mains R$30-45; hdinner)
neighborhood restaurant serves standard
restaurant-lounge that serves Brazilian cuisine
Galeria 1618 (Map pp140-1 ; %2295 1618; Rua Gustavo
Flickering candles, subdued conversation and
Brazilian fare, but the stunning views from
with Asian and Mediterranean accents. After
Sampaio 840, Leme; mains R$15-26; h9am-11pm) Equal
tasty crepes make this popular restaurant a
the open-air veranda are the real draw.
dinner, have a few cocktails and stick around:
parts bookstore, art gallery and bistro, Galeria
real date-pleaser.
Botequim Informal (Map pp142-3 ; %3171 6442;
some of Rio’s best DJs spin at parties here.
1618 serves tasty quiches, coffee, juices and
Siri Mole (Map pp140-1 ; %2267 0894; Rua Francisco
Praia de Botafogo 400, Botafogo; mains R$18-30; hnoon-
Escola do Pão (Map pp138-9 ; %2294 0027; Rua General
desserts to an attractive middle-class crowd. It
Otaviano 50, Copacabana; mains for two R$80; hdinner
8:30pm) Located on the 7th floor of the Bota-
Garzon 10, Lagoa; brunch R$40; h5pm-midnight Tue-Sat,
also serves an excellent daily special – risotto
daily, lunch Tue-Sun) Understated elegance is the
fogo Praia Shopping, Botequim Informal has
9am-1pm Sat & Sun) In a converted colonial man-
with shrimp and the like.
key to Siri Mole’s long-standing success –
a fairly standard menu, but boasts spectacu-
sion, this beautifully decorated restaurant
Botequim Informal (Map pp140-1 ; %2255 4746; Rua
both in ambience and in the perfectly pre-
lar views of the bay and Pão de Açúcar. It’s
serves delightful French fare by night, but
Domingos Ferreira 215, Copacabana; mains R$17-23; hlunch
pared seafood. Among the favorites at this
one of many eateries in the mall.
their decadent weekend brunch is famed.
& dinner) One of the neighborhood’s popular
award-winning restaurant: moqueca de siri
Stravaganze (Map pp142-3 ; %2535 0591; Rua Vis-
Olympe (Map pp138-9 ; %2539 4542; Rua Custódio Ser-
meeting points, this airy bar and restaurant
mole (spicy, soft-shell crab stew) and acarajé
conde de Caravelas 121, Botafogo; pizzas R$25-35; %6pm-
rão 62, Lagoa; mains around R$78; hdinner Mon-Sat, lunch
serves Brazilian standards and cold beer on
(spicy, shrimp-filled croquettes).
midnight Mon-Sat) This small, elegant restaurant
Fri) One of Rio’s best chefs, Claude Troisgros
a quiet tree-lined street.
Marius Crustáceos (Map pp140-1 ; %2104 9002; Av
serves piping-hot pizzas cooked in a wood-
continues to dazzle guests with unforgetta-
La Trattoria (Map pp140-1 ; %2255 3319; Rua
Atlântica 290A, Leme; per person R$130; hlunch & din-
burning oven. Fresh ingredients and excel-
ble meals at his award-winning restaurant.
Fernando Mendes 7A, Copacabana; mains R$18-32;
ner) Although the price is sky-high here, this
lent variety, along with attentive service,
Originally from France, Troisgros mixes old-
h11am-1am) This casual but festive Italian
all-you-can-eat seafood restaurant has many
make this one of Rio’s top pizza picks.
world with new in ever inventive combina-
trattoria has been a neighborhood favorite
fans. The waiters file through the dining
Adega do Valentim (Map pp142-3 ; %2541 1166;
tions. The setting is in a lovely house on a
for over 25 years. Seafood pasta dishes are
room bearing delectable fruits of the sea –
Rua da Passagem 178, Botafogo; mains R$26-42; hnoon-
tree-lined street.
particularly recommended.
lobster, mussels, oysters, tuna, salmon, scal-
1am) Bacalhau (cod) is the specialty at this
Azumi (Map pp140-1 ; %2541 4294; Rua Ministro Vivei-
lops and more. Next door is Marius Carnes
old-fashioned Portuguese restaurant, which
Copacabana & Leme
ros de Castro 127, Copacabana; plates R$20-40; hdinner Tue-
(%2104 9102; Av Atlântica 290B, Leme; per person R$85;
offers over a dozen different ways of prepa-
Copacabana has everything from five-star
Sat) This low-key sushi bar is a favorite among
hlunch and dinner), serving delicious cuts
ration. Jocular waiters serve up plenty of
dining rooms atop beach-fronting hotels to
the nisei (second-generation Japanese born
of steak.
other favorites.
174 R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • E a t i n g
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R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • E a t i n g 175 RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
Carême (Map pp142-3 ; %2537 2274; Rua Visconde de
lunch specials). At night, its open-air front
Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat) Stained-glass windows,
Brasserie Rosário (Map pp144-5 ; %2518 3033; Rua
Caravelas 113, Botafogo; mains R$30-50; h8pm-midnight
deck is a lively place for ice-cold drafts.
brocaded mirrors and marble countertops
do Rosário 34, Centro; lunch specials R$23; h8am-8pm Mon-
Tue-Sat) This French bistro serves excellent
Taberna da Glória (Map pp144-5 ; %2265 7835; Rua
create one of the most lavish settings for
Fri, 10am-5pm Sat) Set in a handsomely restored
plates of marinated snapper, braised rabbit,
do Russel 32A, Glória; mains R$17-25; hnoon-1am) On a
coffee or a meal.
1860s building, this atmospheric bistro has
and apple-and-nut risotto (among other veg-
small plaza in the heart of Glória, this large
Bistro do Paço (Map pp144-5 ; %2262 3613; Praça XV
a hint of Paris. Croissants, pain au chocolat
etarian offerings). The desserts at Carême
outdoor eatery serves filling Brazilian grilled
de Novembro 48; mains R$10-17; hlunch Mon-Sat) Inside
(chocolate croissant) and other bakery items
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
are legendary.
meats and fish, and its feijoada on Saturday
the Paço Imperial, this airy lunchtime spot
fill the front counters, while the restaurant
Yorubá (Map pp142-3 ; %2541 9387; Rua Arnaldo
still draws crowds.
serves fresh salads, tasty sandwiches and
menu features roast meats and fish, soups,
Quintela 94, Botafogo; mains for two R$70-90; h7-11pm
Belmonte (Map pp142-3 ; %2552 3349; Praia do
piping hot quiches, with decent vegetarian
baguette sandwiches and the like.
Wed-Fri, 2-11pm Sat, noon-6pm Sun) Candlelit Yorubá
Flamengo 300, Flamengo; mains R$18-36; h7am-late)
options. A more formal restaurant lies inside
Arte Temperada (Map pp144-5 ; %2253 2589; Rua
looks as if it’s always ready for the arrival
One of the city’s classic botecos (and now a
the same building.
Visconde de Itaboraí 78, Centro; mains R$24-36; hlunch
of an orixá (deity of Candomblé). And if
popular chain), Belmonte is a vision of 1950s
Casa Cavé (Map pp144-5 ; %2222 2358; Rua Sete de
Mon-Fri) Hidden in a tiny alley behind the Casa
the goddess Iemanjá were to pay a surprise
Rio. Beneath globe lights, a few patrons steel
Setembro 137; mains R$10-20; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm
França-Brasil, this charming restaurant serves
visit, she’d find heavenly plump shrimp and
their nerves with cachaça as unhurried waiters
Sat) This simple but historic coffeehouse has
delicious Franco-Brazilian cuisine. Top choices
rich coconut milk blended to perfection in
make their way across the tile floors, carrying
a few stand-up tables and a long counter full
are crepes, bouillabaisse, and the chicken breast
babão de camarão, and outstanding moqueca
plates of trout or steak sandwiches.
of tasty desserts.
served with passion-fruit sauce and polenta.
(Bahian fish stew).
Churrascaria Majórica (Map pp142-3 ; %2285 6789;
Café do Rodrigues (Map pp144-5 ; %3231 8015;
Rua Senador Vergueiro 11, Flamengo; mains for two R$50;
Travessa do Ouvidor 17, Centro; mains R$12-20; h9am-8pm
TOP END
Flamengo, Catete & Glória
hnoon-midnight Tue-Sat) Meat is very serious
Mon-Fri) Inside the quaint bookstore Livraria
Cais do Oriente (Map pp144-5 ; %2203 0178; Rua Visconde
On weekend nights, the restaurants and bars
business at Majórica, and if you’re looking
da Travessa, Café do Rodrigues serves lighter
de Itaboraí 8, Centro; mains R$33-46; hlunch daily, dinner
lining Rua Marquês de Abrantes crowd with
for an authentic churrascaria experience, look
fare such as torta do palmito (heart of palm
Tue-Sat) Brick walls lined with tapestries stretch
neighborhood diners. In Catete, the streets
no further.
quiche), soups and flavorful salads.
high to the ceiling in this almost cinematic
near Largo do Machado have a few popular
Lamas (Map pp142-3 ; %2556 0799; Rua Marquês de
Cedro do Líbano (Map pp144-5 ; %2224 0163; Rua
1870s mansion. Set on a brick-lined street hid-
outdoor restaurants.
Abrantes 18A, Flamengo; mains R$25-45; hdinner) This
Senhor dos Passos 231; mains R$14-22; h11am-5pm)
den from the masses, Cais do Centro blends
classic restaurant opened in 1874, and in spite
Along a bustling pedestrian strip, this 70-
West with East in dishes such as filet steak
BUDGET
of the mileage, dishes here hold up well. You
year-old institution serves traditional Leba-
and sesame tuna.
Estação República (Map pp142-3 ; %2225 2650; Rua do
can’t go wrong with grilled linguiça (garlicky
nese cooking: quibes, kaftas, lamb – tender
AlbaMar (Map pp144-5 ; %2240 8378; Praça Marechal
Catete 104, Catete; per kg R$19; h11am-11pm) Estação’s
pork sausage) or filet mignon.
portions of perfection.
Âncora 186; mains for two R$50-120; hlunch & dinner)
buffet table is a neighborhood institution. Fea-
Casa da Suíça (Map pp142-3 ; %2552 5182; Rua Cân-
Al Khayam (Map pp144-5 ; %2252 6261; www
Perched over the water, this old favorite of-
turing an extensive selection of salads, meats,
dido Mendes 157, Glória; fondues R$42; hlunch Sun-Fri,
.alkhayam.com.br; Rua do Ouvidor 16; mains R$16-24;
fers excellent views of the Baía de Guanabara
pastas and vegetables, it’s easy to indulge with-
dinner daily) Tucked away on a quiet street in
hlunch & dinner Mon-Fri) Al Khayam has modern
and Niterói and serves up tasty seafood dishes.
out breaking the bank.
Glória lies a slice of Switzerland in the trop-
decor and serves up excellent Middle Eastern
Favorites include shrimp curry.
Catete Grill (Map pp142-3 ; %2285 3442; Rua do
ics. Featuring flambés, fondues and an ever-
cuisine. Hookahs and fortnightly belly dance
Catete 239, Catete; per kg R$21; h11am-11pm) This
changing menu, Casa da Suíça has a strong
shows add spice to the ample menu.
Santa Teresa & Lapa
modern per-kilo restaurant is a good inex-
culinary reputation.
Ateliê Odeon (Map pp144-5 ; %2240 0746; Praça Flo-
Santa Teresa has superb views, while Lapa
pensive lunch or dinner choice when ex-
Porcão Rio’s (Map pp142-3 ; %2554 8535; Av Infante
riano, Cinelândia; mains R$16-26; hnoon-10pm Mon-Fri)
has an unrivaled music scene, and both are
ploring the neighborhood. Good variety of
Dom Henrique, Flamengo; all-you-can-eat R$60; h11:30am-
Next to the cinema of the same name, the
excellent places to discover a mix of new and
salads, pastas, seafood and grilled meats.
midnight) Set in the Parque do Flamengo with
new Ateliê Odeon serves up decent Brazil-
old-fashioned eating and drinking haunts.
a stunning view of Pão de Açúcar, this is an
ian fare to a festive crowd on its open-air
MIDRANGE & TOP END
excellent churrascaria.
terrace. On weekends, Ateliê opens around
BUDGET
Severyna da Glória (Map pp144-5 ; %2224 6604; Rua
film screenings next door.
Marizé Gourmet (Map pp144-5 ; %2221 0919; Av Mem
Santo Amaro 38, Glória; mains R$12-16; h11am-11pm)
Centro
Bar Luiz (Map pp144-5 ; %2262 6900; Rua da Carioca
de Sá 82, Lapa; sandwiches R$5-12; %8am-5pm Mon, to
One of the rare gems of the neighborhood,
It’s worth lunching in Centro, where you
39, Centro; mains R$18-30; h11am-11:30pm Mon-Sat)
11pm Tue & Wed, to 3am Thu & Fri, 8pm-3am Sat) This
Severyna is a cozy restaurant with rustic
can rub elbows with Rio’s workaday crowds
A festive air fills this old saloon (opened
airy two-story restaurant is ideally suited to
décor and satisfying plates of carne seca
and take advantage of weekday specials, of-
in 1887), where you can get your fill of
samba-club-goers in the area. It has big win-
(dried meat with spices), moqueca and
fered at even the toniest restaurants. An area
traditional German cooking – potato salad
dows from which to watch the street action,
other classic Northeastern fare. There’s
worth exploring is Travessa do Comércio,
and smoked meats – along with ice-cold
and tasty salads, sandwiches and bar snacks.
live music Thursday to Sunday nights at
just after work when the restaurants and
drafts.
There’s live music Thursday to Saturday
8pm (R$6).
cafés fill with chatter. The cafés and restau-
Tempeh (Map pp144-5 ; %2232 8007; 2nd fl, Rua Pri-
(R$10 admission).
Armazem do Chopp (Map pp142-3 ; %2557 4052;
rants around Praça Floriano are also popular
meiro de Março 24; per kg R$22; hlunch Mon-Sat) One
Jasmin Mango (Map pp144-5 ; %2242 2605; Largo do
Rua Marquês de Abrantes 66, Flamengo; mains R$14-20;
gathering/quaffing spots.
of Centro’s best vegetarian restaurants, Tem-
Guimarães 143, Santa Teresa; mains R$10-21; h10am-11pm)
hnoon-midnight) In a barnlike structure above
peh has a wide assortment of nicely prepared
Well-placed beside the bonde stop, Jasmin
the street, Armazem do Chopp is a neighbor-
BUDGET & MIDRANGE
dishes, including soups, pastas, veggie burg-
Mango is a charming spot to linger over sand-
hood favorite for its tasty grilled dishes and
Confeitaria Colombo (Map pp144-5 ; %2232 2300; Rua
ers, vegan sushi and desserts. The old colonial
wiches, quiches, pastas, pizzas and desserts.
traditional inexpensive Brazilian fare (with
Gonçalves Dias 34, Centro; desserts R$4-8; h8am-8pm
walls add to the charm.
There’s an airy patio in back.
176 R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • D r i n k i n g
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R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • D r i n k i n g 177 RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
MIDRANGE & TOP END
oAprazível (Map pp144-5 ; %3852 4935; Rua
Guapo Loco (Map pp138-9 ; %2294 2915; Rua Rainha
Encontras Cariocas (Map pp144-5 ; %2221 0028; Av Mem
Aprazível 62, Santa Teresa; mains R$53; hnoon-1am Thu-Sat,
TICKET MATTERS
Guilhermina 48, Leblon; cover R$10-40, mains R$15-30;
de Sá 77, Lapa; pizzas R$14-35; %6pm-5am Wed-Sun) This
1-7:30pm Sun) Hidden on a windy road high up
When entering some bars (and self-serve
h7pm-midnight Mon, to 4am Tue-Fri, noon-4am Sat,
late-night pizza parlor is a good place to stop
in Santa Teresa, Aprazível has beautiful views
restaurants) you might be handed a ticket,
to midnight Sun) This colorful Mexican res-
in while exploring Lapa’s music scene. You’ll
and a lush garden setting. The menu features
which is used to track your consumption
taurant and bar is one of Leblon’s livelier
find 24 pizza varieties amid old-fashioned
gourmet Brazilian fare: grilled fish with orange
throughout the evening. When you’re
spots for the under-30 crowd. It offers a
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
charm – high wooden ceilings, brick walls
chutney and coconut rice, mixed mushroom
ready to move on, you’ll pay a cashier for
variety of tequilas to keep things rowdy.
and warm lighting.
lasagne and roast beef with onion torte. Thurs-
the goods (and possibly an admission fee).
Filling quesadillas, tacos and fajitas are also
Sobrenatural (Map pp144-5 ; %2224 1003; Rua Almi-
day night is dedicated to live chorinho (R$15
The cashier will then give you another ticket
available if hunger strikes after working the
rante Alexandrino 432, Santa Teresa; mains R$16-36; hnoon-
cover). Reservations are recommended.
to pass onto the door attendant as you exit.
dance floor.
midnight Mon-Sat) The exposed brick and old
It’s all wonderfully Brezhnevian – but saves
Jobi (Map pp138-9 ; %2274 0547; Av Ataulfo de Paiva
hardwood ceiling set the stage for feasting on
Barra & Greater Rio
you the trouble of having to cough up every
1166, Leblon; h9am-4am) A favorite since 1956,
the frutos do mar (seafood). Lines gather on
Outside the city limits one can find fresh sea-
time you order a cocktail. Don’t lose that
Jobi is one of Leblon’s most traditional
weekends for grilled fish and moqueca. During
food in open-air spots overlooking the coast.
ticket, as you may be charged R$100 or
drinking spots. Grab a seat by the side-
the week, stop by for lunchtime specials.
Bira (Map p137 ; %2410 8304; Estrada da Vendinha 68A,
more. You’ll see this system in many areas
walk, order a cold beverage and watch the
Bar do Mineiro (Map pp144-5 ; %2221 9227; Rua
Barra de Guaratiba; mains for two R$80-125; hnoon-6pm Thu
of Brazil.
night unfold.
Paschoal Carlos Magno 99, Santa Teresa; mains R$18-30;
& Fri, noon-8pm Sat & Sun) Splendid views of Rest-
Seu Martin (Map pp138-9 ; %2274 0800; Av General
h11am-2am Tue-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat, to 8pm Sun) Pho-
inga de Marambaia await diners who make
San Martín 1196, Leblon; hnoon-1am Tue-Sat, noon-
tographs of old Rio cover the walls of this
the trek to Bira, about 45 minutes outside
Bar D’Hotel (Map pp138-9 ; %2540 4990; 2nd fl, Ma-
11pm Sun) This small, inviting bar in Leblon
old-school boteco in the heart of Santa Ter-
of the city. On a breezy, wooden deck, you
rina All Suites, Av Delfim Moreira 696, Leblon; h7pm-1am
is an intimate setting for a drink. Jazz plays
esa. The feijoada is tops on Saturday. Good
can feast on moquecas, sea bass, shrimp and
Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat) The waves crashing on
overhead as young friends and couples work
anytime dishes include carne seca and lin-
crabmeat pastries.
the shore are part of the ambience at this bar
their way through cocktails and conversa-
guiça (garlicky pork sausages) along with
Tia Palmira (Map p137 ; %2410 8169; Caminho do Souza
overlooking Ipanema Beach. The intimate
tion. Seu Martin also serves tasty appetizers
strong caipirinhas.
18, Barra de Guaratiba; set lunch R$60; h11:30am-5pm Tue-
space is a magnet for the style set.
and sandwiches.
Bar Brasil (Map pp144-5 ; %2509 5943; Av Mem de Sá
Sun) A venerable destination for 40 years, Tia
Bracarense (Map pp138-9 ; %2294 3549; Rua José Lin-
Shenanigan’s (Map pp138-9 ; %2267 5860; Rua
90, Lapa; mains R$18-40; h11:30am-11pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm
Palmira wins fans with its seafood rodízio.
hares 85B, Leblon; h7am-midnight Mon-Sat & 9am-9pm
Visconde de Pirajá 112A, Ipanema; h6pm-3am Mon-Fri,
Sat) This restaurant serves traditional German
Plate after plate of vatapá (a seafood dish
Sun) Cariocas consider Bracarense one of Rio’s
2pm-3am Sat, to 2am Sun) Overlooking the Praça
cuisine: sauerkraut, wursts, lentils, and an
with a thick sauce of manioc paste, coconut
classic botecos, for its unpretentious atmos-
General Osório, Shenanigan’s is one of
ever-flowing tap quench the appetites of the
and dendê or palm oil), crabmeat, grilled fish,
phere, garrulous mixed crowd, ice-cold chope
many Irish pubs in town that continues to
sometimes-rowdy Lapa crowd.
shrimp pastries and other fruits of the sea come
and heavenly salgados (snacks). It gets packed
draw a young mix of locals and pale out-of-
Nova Capela (Map pp144-5 ; %2252 6228; Av Mem
to your table until you can eat no more.
on weekends.
towners over games of pool. Dark, festive
de Sá 96, Lapa; mains R$18-40; h11am-late) Like Bar
Cobal de Leblon (Map pp138-9 ; Rua Gilberto Cardoso,
and pubby ambience.
Brasil next door, Nova Capela stays open
DRINKING
Leblon; hclosed Mon) Leblon’s popular market
Tô Nem Aí (Map pp138-9 ; %2247 8403; Rua Farme de
late into the night, and fills with a garrulous
Leblon and Ipanema offer flashy nightspots,
features a number of open-air bars and res-
Amoedo 57, Ipanema; hnoon-3am) A popular new
mix of neighborhood regulars, party kids and
as well as old-school watering holes. A youth-
taurants, and it’s a major see-and-be-seen
watering hole that attracts a fun, very mixed
assorted characters who stumble in off the
ful bar scene draws revelers to Gávea, while
destination in the summer.
crowd to its indoor and outdoor tables. Ex-
street. Legendarily bad-tempered waiters (no
a more sedate crowd enjoys Lagoa’s scenic
Devassa (Map pp138-9 ; %2540 6087; Av General San
cellent appetizers and light fare.
surprise given what they have to work with)
spots. Centro’s narrow pedestrian streets at-
Martín 1241, Leblon; h5pm-late Mon-Fri, noon-late Sat &
serve up big plates of traditional Portuguese
tract drinkers during weekday cocktail hours,
Sun) Serving Rio’s best beer, Devassa makes its
Gávea, Jardim Botânico & Lagoa
cuisine. Cabrito (goat) is very popular.
while a mix of old and new clutters the streets
own creamy brews (in Vargem Grande), be-
Bar Lagoa (Map pp138-9 ; %2523 1135; Av Epitácio Pes-
Espírito Santa (Map pp144-5 ; %2508 7095; Rua Almi-
of Lapa and Santa Teresa.
fore offering them up to thirsty, festive crowds
soa 1674, Lagoa; h6pm-2am Mon, noon-2am Tue-Sun)
rante Alexandrino 264, Santa Teresa; mains R$20-36; %noon-
at the two-story chopperia (beer hall). Week-
Overlooking the lake, Bar Lagoa is one of
6pm Tue-Wed, to midnight Thu-Sat, to 7pm Sun) Espírito
Ipanema & Leblon
end bands playing upstairs add to the din.
the neighborhood’s classic haunts. A youth-
Santa is set in a beautifully restored mansion
Academia da Cachaça (Map pp138-9 ; %2239 1542; Rua
Empório (Map pp138-9 ; %2267 7992; Rua Maria
ful air pervades the ever-crowded tables.
in Santa Teresa, with sweeping views from its
Conde de Bernadotte 26G, Leblon; hnoon-2am Mon-Sat, to
Quitéria 37, Ipanema; hnoon-2am) A young mix
Caroline Café (Map pp138-9 ; %2540 0705;
back patio. The cuisine is no less amazing: The
1am Sun) Although cachaça has a bad reputation
of Cariocas and gringos stirs things up over
Rua JJ Seabra 10, Jardim Botânico; h6pm-3am Sun-
chef expertly prepares rich meat and seafood
in some parts, here the fiery liquor is given the
cheap cocktails and blaring music at this
Thu, to 4am Fri, 7pm-4am Sat) The usual sexy,
dishes from the Amazon.
respect it nearly deserves. This pleasant spot
battered Ipanema favorite.
young crowd fills the tables at this sceney
Sansushi (Map pp144-5 ; %2224 4658; Rua Almirante
serves over 500 varieties.
Garota de Ipanema (Map pp138-9 ; %2523 3787;
indoor-outdoor spot.
Alexandrino 382, Santa Teresa; sushi platter R$46; h7pm-
Botequim Informal (Map pp138-9 ; %2259 6967;
Rua Vinícius de Moraes 49, Ipanema; h10:30-2:30am)
Da Graça (Map pp138-9 ; %2249 5484; Rua Pacheco Leão
midnight Tue-Fri, 1pm-midnight Sat, to 8pm Sun) This tiny
Rua Humberto de Campos 646, Leblon; hnoon-1am Tue-
The famed spot where Tom Jobim and
780, Jardim Botânico; h6pm-1:30am Tue-Thu, noon-1:30am
sushi spot on Santa Teresa’s main strip attracts
Sun) This charming neighborhood bar with
Vinícius de Moraes wrote ‘A Garota de
Fri & Sat) Colorful Da Graça is one of Jardim
a loyal local following with its delectable sushi
outdoor seating is hidden away on a quiet,
Ipanema’ (The Girl from Ipanema) is now
Botânico’s liveliest bars, with a festive and
and sashimi (36 different varieties) as well as
tree-lined street and makes a fine place to
pretty touristy, but the beer is ice-cold and
colorfully kitsch decor and sidewalk tables
teriyaki and other hot dishes.
start the evening.
the crowd is lively.
packed on weekends.
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R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • E n t e r t a i n m e n t 179 RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
Drink Café (Map pp138-9 ; %2239 4136; Parque dos
Miam Miam (Map pp142-3; %2244 0125; Rua General
ENTERTAINMENT
followed by a DJ who keeps the dance floor
Patins, Av Borges de Medeiros, Lagoa; live-music charge R$5;
Góes Monteiro 34, Botafogo; hnoon-3pm Tue-Fri, 8pm-1am
Music & Dancing
going until late.
h5pm-2am Mon, 9am-2am Tue-Sun) One of sev-
Tue-Sat) A cozy new edition to Botafogo’s drink-
Rio’s music scene features some incredibly
Estudantina Café (Map pp144-5 ; %2232 1149; Praça
eral, open-air restaurants along the lake, the
ing scene, this bar and bistro has a nicely lit
talented performers playing in atmospheric
Tiradentes 79, Centro; admission R$12-20; h10pm-3:30am
Drink Café hosts live jazz and bossa nova
lounge with exposed brick walls and modish
settings to a truly democratic crowd. Lapa
Wed-Sat) Overlooking the Praça Tiradentes, the
most nights.
furniture and a Brazilian electronic sound-
is the heart of samba, and its old clubs are
old dance hall packs in crowds who come
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
Hipódromo Up (Map pp138-9 ; %2274 9720; Praça
track. Cocktails and Italian fare (bruschetta,
a must-see for visitors. The widest assort-
for a line-up of samba, rock, soul and forró
Santos Dumont 108, Gávea; h8pm-3am) Hipódromo
pastas, panini) fill the menu.
ment of music venues is along Av Mem de
(popular Northeastern music). The open-air
Up is one of several bars in the area respon-
Sá. In the summer, the city hosts its Noites
veranda provides a nice spot to cool off.
sible for the local residents’ chronic lack of
Centro
Cariocas, big parties atop Pão de Açúcar that
Fundição Progresso (Map pp144-5 ; %2220 5070;
sleep. A young college-age crowd celebrates
Amarelinho (Map pp144-5 ; %2240 8434; Praça Flori-
feature the likes of Caetano Veloso, Jorge
www.fundicao.org in Portuguese; Rua dos Arcos 24, Lapa;
here most nights.
ano 55, Cinelândia; h11am until last customer) Facing
Ben Jor and other big names.
admission R$20-35) Inside this enormous old fac-
Saturnino (Map pp138-9 ; %3874 0064; Rua Saturnino
Praça Floriano, Amerilinho packs its out-
tory are several stages that host some of the
de Brito 50, Jardim Botânico; h6pm-2am Sun-Wed, to 3am
door tables during that oh-so-refreshing
LIVE MUSIC
best concerts and arts events in Lapa. Check
Thu-Sat) Saturnino has high ceilings and touches
after-work drink.
Allegro Bistrô Musical (Map pp140-1 ; %2548 5005;
the website for the latest line-up.
of tropical decor, with a 20-something crowd
Bar Occidental (Map pp144-5 ; Rua Miguel Couto 124,
www.modernsound.com.br; Modern Sound, Rua Barata Ribeiro
Praia Vermelha (Map pp142-3 ; %2275 7292; Praça
mingling over fruity cocktails (that could use
Centro; h5-10pm Mon-Fri) One of several sidewalk
502, Copacabana; admission free; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, to
General Tibúrcio, Urca; admission R$6-10; hnoon-midnight)
a touch more alcohol).
bars in the area, Bar Occidental is the place to
8pm Sat) The small café in Copacabana’s ex-
Perched over the beach of the same name,
go for icy chope and fried sardines.
cellent music store, Modern Sound, features
Praia Vermelha has gorgeous views of Pão
Copacabana & Leme
Boteco Casual (Map pp144-5 ; %2232 0250; Rua
live music most nights of the week, typically
de Açúcar looming overhead. By night, jazzy
Bar Luiz (Map pp140-1 ; Kiosk 10, Av Atlântica, Copac-
do Ouvidor; h11am-midnight Mon-Fri; 11am-6pm Sat)
from 5pm to 9pm.
MPB bands play from 6pm onward, making
abana; h8am-midnight) One of many shiny,
Boteco Casual serves ice-cold beer and fill-
Beco do Rato (Map pp144-5 ; %2221 8062; Rua Mo-
for an enviable open-air setting. The food,
new kiosks on Copacabana’s sands, serving
ing plates to its sidewalk tables; it gets packed
rais e Vale 5, Lapa; admission free; h7pm-2am Tue-Sun)
unfortunately, is less spectacular.
up cold beer and tasty bites (the kitchen is
after work, particularly as the weekend nears.
One of Lapa’s classic samba spots, this small
Semente (Map pp144-5 ; %9781 2451; Rua Joaquim
concealed underground).
Numerous other open-air spots lie nearby.
outdoor bar has excellent live groups play-
Silva 138, Lapa; admission R$10; h8pm-1am Sun-Thu)
Copacabana Palace Poolside Bar (Map pp140-1 ;
ing to a laid-back crowd. Friday nights are
This tiny bar hosts up-and-coming samba
%2548 7070; Copacabana Palace hotel, Av Atlântica 1702,
Santa Teresa & Lapa
particularly recommended.
and choro groups and is a more authentic
Copacabana; hnoon-11pm) Even if you can’t swing
Café Neves (Map pp144-5 ; %2221 4863; Largo das
Bip Bip (Map pp140-1 ; %2267 9696; Rua Almirante
space to find samba’s soul. Sunday and
the pricey rooms, you can still soak up some
Neves 11, Santa Teresa; h6pm-late Tue-Sat) Small but
Gonçalves 50, Copacabana; h8pm-midnight) A neigh-
Monday nights are current picks.
decadence at the Palace’s lovely outdoor ter-
charming, Café Neves faces peaceful Largo
borhood institution, Bip Bip has been host-
Severyna (Map pp142-3 ; %2556 1296; Rua Ipiranga
race bar. For something less open, head inside
das Neves, with the occasional tram rattling
ing samba jams for more than 15 years. The
54, Laranjeiras; admission R$5-10; h11:30am-2am)
to the elegant piano bar (4pm to midnight).
by. The open-sided bar draws a vibrant mix
ambience is simple: just a breadbox-sized
At night this barnlike dining hall hosts
Manoel & Juaquim (Map pp140-1 ; %2523 1128; Av
on weekends, and there’s often live music
storefront with tables spilling onto the side-
live bands playing forró and other music
Atlântica 3806, Copacabana; hnoon-2am) Facing the
somewhere on hand. Several other bars lie
walk, great music and a diverse crowd of
from Northeastern Brazil. Shows begin
beach, this outdoor spot is a longstanding
around the square.
music lovers. Sunday is the current fave.
at 8:30pm.
favorite, attracting a garrulous mix of locals
Tumbao de Malevo (Map pp144-5 ; Rua Paschoal Carlos
Circo Voador (Map pp144-5 ; %2533 5873; www
Vinícius Piano Bar (Map pp138-9 ; %2523 4757;
and tourists.
Magno 121, Santa Teresa; h4-10pm Thu-Sun) High up
.circovoador.com.br in Portuguese; Rua dos Arcos, Lapa; ad-
Rua Prudente de Morais 34, Ipanema; admission R$10-30)
Sindicato do Chopp (Map pp140-1 ; %2541 3133; Av
above the street, this casual, open-air café
mission R$20-40) In a curvilinear building behind
Billing itself as the ‘temple of bossa nova,’
Atlântica 514, Leme; h11am-3am) With a peaceful
attracts an eclectic neighborhood crowd. In
the Arcos do Lapa, this concert space hosts
Vinícius Piano Bar has been an icon in the
beachfront location, this casual bar is a relax-
addition to beer and cocktails, Tumbao serves
big names like Chico Buarque and Jorge Ben
neighborhood since the late ’80s. The small,
ing and largely local spot to enjoy a draft or
sandwiches and other light bites. Live music
Jor as well as up-and-coming bands playing
intimate upstairs music space hosts a fine
a filling meal.
some nights.
rock, ska, funk and samba.
assortment of jazz and bossa nova groups.
Santa Arte (Map pp144-5 ; %2242 9366; Rua Paschoal
Clan Café (Map pp142-3 ; %2558 2322; Rua Cosme
Botafogo & Urca
Carlos Magno 103B, Santa Teresa; h7pm-midnight)
Velho 564, Cosme Velho; admission R$10-15; h6pm-2am
SAMBA CLUBS
Aurora (Map pp142-3 ; %2539 4756; Rua Capitão Salomão
A casual, dimly lit spot to hear live music
Tue-Sat) Set against the hillside of Corcovado,
Gafieiras (dance halls) are a big attraction
43, Botafogo; h11am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, to
nightly among neighborhood regulars. Santa
Clan Café has a large open-air patio that
in Lapa. Here you’ll find restored colonial
9pm Sun) This classic boteco is 100% Carioca. A
Arte is at its liveliest on weekends.
makes a great spot for live jazz, bossa nova
buildings hiding dance floors and large samba
comfortable, roomy bar with a lively, talkative
Mike’s Haus (Map pp142-3 ; %2509 5248; Rua Almi-
and Música Popular Brasileira. Bands play
bands – along with their many admirers.
crowd spilling onto the sidewalk tables .
rante Alexandrino 1458A, Santa Teresa; hnoon-midnight
around 9pm.
Carioca da Gema (Map pp144-5 ; %2221 0043; Av
Bar Urca (Map pp142-3 ; %2295 8744; Rua Cândido
Tue-Sun) This German-style pub attracts a
Estrela da Lapa (Map pp144-5 ; %2507 6686; Av
Mem de Sá 79, Lapa; admission R$10-20; hclosed Sun &
Gaffré 205, Urca; h6am-10pm Tue-Sat, to 7pm Sun) This
mix of expats and Cariocas on weekend
Mem de Sá 69, Lapa; admission R$10-20; h7pm-1am Mon,
Mon) One of the first to bring samba back
simple neighborhood bar and restaurant is in
nights and serves frothy German beers and
9pm-2am Tue-Sun) Inside a restored 19th-century
to Lapa, this small, colorful club hosts
a marvelous setting near the waterfront. At
filling pub grub. It’s a bit off the beaten
mansion, Estrela da Lapa has an eclectic
an excellent line-up of bands and a good
night patrons take a seat along the seaside wall
path, so plan on sticking around before
music scene and hosts bands playing choro,
mixed crowd that packs the dance floor
as waiters bring cold drinks and appetizers.
moving on.
blues and hip-hop. On weekends, shows are
most nights.
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R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • E n t e r t a i n m e n t 181 RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
Centro Cultural Carioca (Map pp144-5 ; %2242
Mangueira (%2567 4637; www.mangueira.com.br
here. Eclectic DJs and fruity cocktails keep
Classical Music, Theater & Dance
9642; www.centroculturalcarioca.com.br; Rua do Tea-
in Portuguese; Rua Visconde de Niterói 1072, Mangueira;
the fans returning.
The city’s most lavish setting for a perform-
tro 37, Centro; admission R$16; h7pm-1am Mon-Thu
h10pm Sat)
Bombar (Map pp138-9 ; %2249 2161; Av General
ance is the beaux-arts Theatro Municipal (Map
8:30pm-2am Fri & Sat) This restored theater, on
Mocidade Independente de Padre Miguel
San Martín 1011, Leblon; admission R$10-30; h10pm-
pp144-5 ; %2299 1711; www.theatromunicipal.rj.gov.br in
Praça Tiradentes, books top samba groups
(%3332 5823; Rua Coronel Tamarindo 38, Padre Miguel;
4am Mon-Sat) This popular Leblon nightclub
Portuguese; Rua Manuel de Carvalho, Centro). You’ll find
throughout the year, and it’s a historic set-
h10pm Sat)
attracts a festive, neighborhood crowd to
a more exciting repertoire of modern dance,
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
ting in which to hear – and dance to – live
Porto da Pedra (%3707 1518; www.gresuportoda
fill the upstairs dance floor. Downstairs is
theater and performance art at the excellent
music.
pedra.com.br in Portuguese; Av Lúcio Tomé Feteiro 290,
a bar, for mingling among a mostly Zona
Espaço Sesc (Map pp140-1 ; %2547 0156; Rua Domingos
Democráticus (Map pp144-5 ; %2252 4611; Rua do
São Gonçalo; h10pm Fri)
Sul crowd.
Ferreira, Copacabana).
Riachuelo 91, Lapa; admission R$12-24; h10pm-4am Wed,
Portela (%2489 6440; www.gresportela.com.br in
Casa da Matriz (Map pp142-3 ; %2266 1014; www
11pm-4am Thu-Sat, 8pm-midnight Sun) This spacious,
Portuguese; Rua Clara Nunes 81, Madureira; h10pm Fri)
.casadamatriz.com.br in Portuguese; Rua Henrique de Novaes
Cinemas
19th-century dance hall has an enormous
Rocinha (%3205 3303; www.academicosdarocinha
107, Botafogo; admission R$10-25; h11pm-4am Mon-Sat,
One of Latin America’s film centers, Rio
dance floor and a long stage, covered with
.com.br in Portuguese; Rua Bertha Lutz 80, São Conrado;
8pm-2am Sun) Artwork decorates the walls of
remains remarkably open to foreign and
musicians. For an authentic slice of Rio’s
h10pm Sat)
this avant-garde space in Botafogo. With
independent films, documentaries and avant-
old-fashioned love of samba, Democráticus
Salgueiro (%2238 5564; www.salgueiro.com.br in
numerous little rooms to explore – lounge,
garde cinema. For listings and show times
is hard to beat.
Portuguese; Rua Silva Teles 104, Andaraí; h10pm Sat)
screening room, dance floors – this old two-
pick up O Globo, Jornal do Brasil newspapers
Rio Scenarium (Map pp144-5 ; %3147 9005; Rua
Tradição (%3350 5668; Estrada Intendente Magalhães
story mansion embodies the most creative
or Veja Rio magazine.
do Lavradio 20, Lapa; admission R$15-25; %7pm-2:30am
160, Campinho; h10pm Fri)
side of the Carioca spirit. Check the website
Casa França-Brasil (Map pp144-5 ; %2253 5366; www
Tue-Sat) Perhaps Rio’s most beautiful night-
Unidos da Tijuca (%2516 4053; www.unidosdatijuca
for party listings.
.casafrancabrasil.rj.gov.br; Rua Visconde de Itaboraí, Centro)
spot, Rio Scenarium has three antique-filled
.com.br in Portuguese; Clube dos Portuários, Rua Francisco
floors with balconies overlooking the stage
Bicalho 47, Cidade Nova; h11pm Sat)
on the 1st floor. Talented samba bands play
Viradouro (%2628 7840; Av do Contorno 16, Barreto,
GAY & LESBIAN RIO Dan Littauer
to a dance-happy crowd, about half of whom
Niterói; h10pm Sat)
Rio has been a major destination for gays since the beginning of the 20th century. Gay balls date
are tourists.
as far back as the 1930s, and Carnaval celebrations have long given gays a chance to dress up,
NIGHTCLUBS
dance and mingle. Nowadays the GLBT (gay, lesbian, bisexual, transgender) scene, especially for
SAMBA SCHOOLS
Flyers advertising dance parties and raves
visitors, is in Ipanema, with Rua Farme de Amoedo, and the beachfront intersecting it, at center
Starting in September, in preparation for
(pronounced ‘hah-vees’) can be found in
stage. Keep in mind that the Carioca definition and idea of a ‘gay friendly’ area is very different
Carnaval, most big samba schools open
record stores and clothing shops in Ipanema
from, say, the Castro or the Marais, where there are clearly demarcated areas for GLBT businesses.
their rehearsals to the public. These are large
and Leblon, and in the surf shops in Galeria
Rainbow flags are still a rarity in Rio, and people prefer mixing to exclusivity.
dance parties, and provide a good chance
River shopping center, near Praia de Arpoa-
Bar Bofetada (Map pp138-9 ; %2227 1675; Rua Farme de Amoedo 87A, Ipanema; h8am-2am) Frequented
to mingle with Cariocas. Schools typically
dor. Some clubs give a discount if you’ve got
by gay guys enjoying a beer after the beach, Bofetada is a good place to watch the boys catwalk-
charge R$5 to R$15 at the door. Many samba
a flyer.
ing up and down Rua Farme de Amoedo.
schools are in the favelas, so use common
Melt (Map pp138-9 ; %2249 9309; Rua Rita Ludolf 47A,
Cabaret Casanova (Map pp144-5 ; %2221 6555; Av Mem de Sá 25, Lapa; h11pm-4am Fri & Sat) One
sense when going.
Leblon; admission R$10-30; h10pm-3am) The sinewy
of Rio’s oldest clubs, Casanova features a good mixed crowd, drag queens and slightly trashy
You can visit the samba schools on a tour
Melt club is one of those places that couldn’t
music.
or you can go by yourself: you can catch a
possibly be anywhere but Leblon. Models and
Casa da Lua (Map pp138-9 ; %2247 4652; Rua Barão da Torre 240A, Ipanema; h5pm-2am Tue-Sun) One of
taxi there, and there are always cabs outside
their admirers lie draped around the candlelit
Rio’s only lesbian hangouts, Casa da Lua is in a leafy part of Ipanema and serves great drinks.
the schools waiting to take people home. It’s
lounge, while wait staff glide between the ta-
Cine Ideal (Map pp144-5 ; %2252 3460; www.cineideal.com.br in Portuguese; Rua da Carioca 62, Centro;
a good idea to confirm that the rehearsals
bles delivering colorful cocktails. Upstairs, DJs
hFri & Sat) An old movie theater, and now an electronic music club, Ideal has an outdoor ter-
are on before heading out. Following is a list
break beats over the dance floor, occasionally
race with views of old Rio.
of some of the more popular samba schools,
accompanied by a few percussionists.
Dama de Ferro (Map pp138-9 ; %2247 2330; Rua Vinícius de Moraes 288, Ipanema; admission R$12-25;
rehearsal days and contact information. The
00 (Zero Zero; Map pp138-9 ; %2540 8041; Planetário,
h11pm-8am Thu-Sat) Dama de Ferro has one of the best dance floors in town. A fun, mixed crowd
most popular schools for tourists are Man-
Av Padre Leonel Franca 240, Gávea; admission R$20-30;
packs this place in the late hours (around 4am) on weekend nights.
gueira and Salgueiro.
h10pm-4am Thu-Sun) Housed in Gávea’s plan-
Galeria Café (Map pp138-9 ; %2523 8250; www.galeriacafe.com.br; Rua Teixeira de Melo 31, Ipanema;
Beija-Flor (%2791 2866; www.beija-flor.com.br in
etarium, 00 (Zero Zero) is a restaurant by
hThu-Sat) This bar has lovely decor and a very mixed crowd.
Portuguese; Praçinha Wallace Paes Leme 1025, Nilópolis;
day, sleek lounge by night. With an out-
Le Boy (Map pp140-1 ; %2513 4993; Rua Raul Pompéia 102, Copacabana; admission R$12-25; h11pm-4am
h8pm Thu)
door patio and some of Rio’s best DJs, 00
Tue-Sun) Trannies and pretty boys gather at this festive Copacabana dance club for dancing, drink-
Caprichosos de Pilares (%2592 5620; www
has a solid reputation in the fashion-literate
ing and perhaps debauchery. Super popular, Le Boy shouldn’t be missed.
.caprichosos.com.br; Rua Faleiros 1, Pilares; h10pm Sat)
party crowd.
La Girl (Map pp140-1 ; %2247 8342; Rua Raul Pompéia 102, Copacabana; admission R$12-25; h11pm-
Grande Rio (%2775 8422; www.granderio.org.br in
Baronneti (Map pp138-9 ; %2522 1460; Rua Barão da
2am Tue-Sun) Rio’s best-known girl bar, La Girl is a great party scene for lesbians. It’s run by the
Portuguese; Rua Almirante Barroso 5-6, Duque de Caixas;
Torre 354, Ipanema; admission R$5-15; h11pm-5am Tue-
owner of Le Boy.
h11pm Fri)
Sun) One of Ipanema’s only nightclubs, Bar-
Buraco da Lacraia (Map pp144-5 ; %2242 0446; Rua André Cavalcante 58, Lapa; hThu-Sat) This wicked
Imperatriz Leopoldinense (%2560 8037; www
onneti has a sleek and trim interior with two
place has entertained for over 12 years. You’ll find glamorous and trashy visitors, bizarre drag
.imperatrizleopoldinense.com.br in Portuguese; Rua
dance floors. Given its prime Zona Sul loca-
shows, karaoke, a dark room and other attractions.
Professor Lacê 235, Ramos; h7pm Sun)
tion, you’ll find a young, well-heeled crowd
182 R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • S h o p p i n g
l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m
l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m
R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • S h o p p i n g 183 RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
Cineclube Laura Alvim (Map pp138-9 ; %2267 1647;
Fluminense (Map pp142-3 ; %2553 7240; Estádio
men’s T-shirts, sneakers, and denim: A good
tries, sculptures and weavings that showcase
Av Vieira Souto 176, Ipanema) Set in the charming Laura
Laranjeiras, Rua Álvaro Chaves, Laranjeiras)
spot if you need a new look in a hurry.
the talent of artists from Amazonia, Minas
Alvim cultural center.
Vasco da Gama (%2580 7373; Estádio de São Januário,
Isabela Capeto (Map pp138-9 ; %2540 5232; Rua Días
Gerais and further afield.
Espaço Unibanco de Cinema (Map pp142-3 ; %3221
Rua General Almério de Moura 131, São Cristóvão)
Ferreira 45B, Leblon; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat)
9221; Rua Voluntários da Pátria 35, Botafogo) A café and
Brazilian designer Isabela Capeto sells her
Liquors
used bookshop are also inside.
beautifully handmade pieces for women from
Lidador (Map pp138-9 ; %2512 1788; Av Ataulfo de Paiva
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
HORSE RACING
Estação Ipanema (Map pp138-9 ; %2540 6445; Rua
Jockey Club Brasileiro (Map pp138-9 ; %2512 9988;
this cheerful Leblon boutique.
1079, Leblon; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat) One
Visconde de Pirajá 605, Ipanema)
www.jcb.com.br in Portuguese; Jardim Botânico 1003, Gávea)
!La Cucaracha! (Map pp138-9 ; %2522 0103; Rua
of Leblon’s best wine shops, Lidador stocks
Estação Paço (Map pp144-5 ; %2529 4829; Paço Impe-
The Jockey Club seats 35,000 and lies on the
Teixeira de Melo 31H, Ipanema) This small, curious
Chilean, Argentinean and even Brazilian
rial, Centro) Set in the historic Paço Imperial.
Gávea side of the Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas
Ipanema store sells T-shirts, zines, comics,
wines as well as cachaça and other spirits.
Odeon BR (Map pp144-5 ; %2262 5089; Praça Ma-
opposite Praça Santos Dumont. It’s a beauti-
some CDs and various tchotchkes.
hatma Gandhi 5, Cinelândia) Rio’s landmark cinema is a
ful track, with a great view of the mountains
Osklen (Map pp138-9 ; %2227 2911; Rua Maria
Markets
beautiful old theater.
and Corcovado, and a nice bar and restaurant
Quitéria 85, Ipanema; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm
Rio’s biggest market is found at the Feira Nor-
São Luiz (Map pp142-3 ; %3221 9292; Rua do Catete
overlooking the track. Races are held on Sat-
Sat) One of Brazil’s hottest labels, Osklen has
destina ( p156 ) in São Cristóvão.
307, Catete)
urday and Sunday afternoons and Monday
an excellent selection of men’s and wom-
Babilônia Feira Hype (Map pp138-9 ; www.babilonia
and Friday nights. The big event of the year
en’s beachwear, outerwear, shirts, skirts and
hype.com.br; Jockey Club Brasileiro, Rua Jardim Botânico 971,
Spectator Sports
is the Brazilian Grand Prix, which falls on the
shoes.
Jardim Botânico; admission R$6; h2-10pm Sat & Sun) A
FOOTBALL
first Sunday in August.
huge fair of clothing, sunglasses and jewelry
Maracanã Football Stadium (Map pp146-7 ; %2568
Handicrafts & Artwork
stalls, with live bands and food stalls. You can
9962; Rua Professor Eurico Rabelo, São Cristóvão; admission
SHOPPING
In addition to shops listed below, good
also get your fortune read by místicos (fortune
R$12-30) Nearly every child in Brazil dreams of
Rio has much in the way of shopping, from
places to browse include the handicrafts
tellers) or receive a henna tattoo.
playing in Maracanã, Rio’s enormous shrine
colorful markets to eye-catching Zona Sul
shop at the Museu do Índio ( p149 ; featur-
Hippie Fair (Feira de Arte de Ipanema; Map pp138-9 ; Praça
to football. Matches here rate among the most
boutiques. Some of the major strips in the city
ing works made by indigenous artists) and
General Osório, Ipanema; h9am-5pm Sun) The Zona
exciting in the world, and the behavior of the
for window shopping include the following:
the colorful contemporary design store at
Sul’s big market, the Hippie Fair has lots of
fans is no less colorful. The devoted pound
Av Ataulfo de Paiva, Leblon (Map pp138-9 ) Boutiques
the Museu de Arte Moderna ( p150 ).
artwork, jewelry, handicrafts and clothing. A
huge samba drums as their team takes the
selling haute couture sprinkled among cafés, bookshops
La Vereda (Map pp144-5 ; %2222 1848; Rua Almirante
stall in the southeast corner of the plaza sells
field, and if things are going badly – or even
and restaurants.
Alexandrino 428, Santa Teresa) Brazilian handicrafts
tasty plates of acarajé.
very well – fans are sometimes driven to sheer
Rua Visconde de Pirajá, Ipanema (Map pp138-9 )
as well as work from local artists and arti-
Praça do Mercado Feira de Antiguidades (Map
madness. Some detonate smoke bombs in
Ipanema’s vibrant shopping strip.
sans are featured here. Several other handi-
pp144-5 ; Praça Mercado Municipal, Centro; h9am-5pm
team colors, while others launch beer bot-
Rua do Lavradio, Lapa (Map pp144-5 ) Rows of antique
craft shops are nearby.
Sat) This antique market, next to the Niterói
tles, or cups full of urine or dead chickens
stores.
Empório Brasil (Map pp138-9 ; %2512 3365; Store
ferry terminal, is a browser’s paradise with
into the seats below. As well, enormous flags
108, Rua Visconde de Pirajá 595, Ipanema; h10am-6pm
a vast array of antiques – silverware, carpets,
are spread across large sections of the stadi-
Clothing & Spirits
Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) Hidden in the back of a
pocket watches, jewelry, typewriters, records,
um’s bleachers, while people dance in the
Contemporâneo (Map pp138-9 ; %2287 6204; Rua Vis-
small shopping center, Empório Brasil sells
art-deco and art-nouveau items.
aisles (this has been known to inspire a goal
conde de Pirajá 437, Ipanema; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat) A
jewelry, vases, instruments, baskets and
Feira do Rio Antigo (Rio Antiques Fair; Map pp144-5 ;
or two).
stylish boutique selling unique pieces, Con-
other unique handicrafts.
Rua do Lavradio, Centro; h10am-6pm 1st Sat of month)
Games take place year round and can
temporâneo is a good place to see Brazil’s best
No Meio do Caminho (Map pp138-9 ; %2294 1330;
Although the Rio Antiques Fair happens just
happen any day of the week. Rio’s big four
designers. Café attached.
Av General San Martín 1247, Leblon; h10am-7pm Mon-
once a month, don’t miss it if you’re in town.
clubs are Flamengo, Fluminense, Vasco da
Forum (Map pp138-9 ; %2521 7415; www.forum.com
Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) Showcasing the work of Bra-
The colonial buildings become a living instal-
Gama and Botafogo. Although many buses
.br; Rua Barão da Torre 422, Ipanema; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri,
zilian artisans, No Meio do Caminho has
lation as the whole street fills with antiques
run to the stadium, the metro is safer and
10am-2pm Sat) Much vaunted Brazilian designer
two floors full of pottery, vases, ceramics
and music.
less crowded on game days. Keep in mind
Tufi Duek has set up his flagship store on a
and woodwork. Pieces here are more akin
that the safest seats are on the lower level ca-
peaceful, tree-lined street. You’ll find elegant,
to artwork and priced accordingly. Lo-
Music
deiras (chairs), where the overhead covering
beautifully made pieces from his men’s and
cated in Leblon, No Meio do Caminho will
Most places will let you listen to CDs before
protects you from descending objects. After
women’s collections.
ship anywhere.
you buy.
the game, avoid the crowded buses, and go
Gilson Martins (Map pp138-9 ; %2227 6178; Rua
O Sol (Map pp138-9 ; %2294 5099; Rua Corcovado 213,
Modern Sound (Map pp140-1 ; %2548 5005; www
instead by metro or taxi.
Visconde de Pirajá 462, Ipanema; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri,
Jardim Botânico; hclosed Sun) Run by a nonprofit
.modernsound.com.br; Rua Barata Ribeiro 502, Copacabana)
To see some of Rio’s favorite teams in
10am-4pm Sat) Designer Gilson Martins turns
organization, this delightful store displays
One of Brazil’s largest music stores stocks
action, go to their home stadiums:
the Brazilian flag into a fashion statement
the works of regional artists and sells bas-
an impressive selection, including staff
Botafogo (%2611 2656; Estádio Caio Martins, Rua
in this colorful store. Glossy handbags, wal-
kets, woven rugs and Brazilian folk art in
recommendations, top Rio artists and im-
Presidente Backer, Niterói)
lets and other accessories sport the green
clay, wood and porcelain.
ports. Live music shows are staged here most
Flamengo (Map pp138-9 ; %2529 0100; Estádio José
and yellow.
Pé de Boi (Map pp142-3 ; %2285 4395; Rua Ipiranga 55,
days, at Allegro Bistrô Musical ( p179 ).
Bastos Padilha, Av Borges de Medeiros 997, Lagoa) This
Ipanema.com (Map pp138-9 ; %2227 1288; Rua
Laranjeiras; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) One of
Plano B (Map pp144-5 ; %2507 9860; Rua Francisco
stadium is also known as Estádio da Gávea. Most of Fla-
Prudente de Morais 237C, Ipanema; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri,
Rio’s best handicrafts stores, Pé de Boi sells
Muratori 2A, Lapa) An underground favorite
mengo’s home games are, however, played at Maracanã.
10am-4pm Sat) Ipanema.com carries colorful
works in wood and ceramic as well as tapes-
among local DJs, Plano B has new and used
184 R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y
l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m
l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m
R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 185 RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
records and CDs, as well as a tattoo parlor
Gol (%0800 701 2131; www.voegol.com.br; Aeroporto
in the back.
Galeão, Aeroporto Santos Dumont) All travel agents sell
Destination Duration
Cost Frequency
Company
Arlequin (Map pp144-5 ; %2220 8471; Av Primeiro de
Gol tickets.
International
Março, Centro) Set inside the Paço Imperial, Ar-
TAM (%3212 9300; www.tam.com.br; Av Rio Branco
Buenos Aires, Argentina
46hr
R$310
daily
Pluma (%2233 0336)
lequin is a pleasant place to browse for CDs,
245, Centro)
Santiago, Chile
72hr
R$362
daily
Pluma (%2233 0336)
records and used books (in Portuguese) while
Varig (Map pp144-5 ; %2510 6650; www.varig.com.br;
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
exploring the area.
Av Rio Branco 277, Centro)
National
Feira de Música (Map pp144-5 ; Rua Pedro Lessa, Centro;
Angra dos Reis
3hr
R$31
2 daily
Costa Verde (%2233 3809)
h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) During the week browse
The following lists sample prices on Gol
Belém 52hr
R$290
daily
Transbrasiliana
(%2516 8284)
through bins of records and CDs at this open-
and TAM, Brazil’s major carriers. Prices
Belo Horizonte
7hr
US$57-95
8 daily
Viação Cometa (%4004 9600)
air market in Centro.
quoted are one-way and leave from Aero-
Brasília
17hr
R$142-162
2 daily
Util (%2518 1133)
Toca do Vinícius
Cabo Frio
3½hr
R$18-20
20 daily
Viação 1001 (%4004 5001)
(Map pp138-9 ; %2247 5227; www
porto Galeão. Given frequent specials and
Curitiba
13hr
R$108-140
5 daily
Penha (%0800 723 2122)
.tocadovinicius.com.br; Rua Vinícius de Moraes 129, Ipanema)
volatile prices, this information is subject
Florianópolis 18hr
R$179
daily Itapemirim
(%0800 723 2121)
Bossa nova’s smooth sound lives on in this
to change.
Foz do Iguaçu
23hr
R$184
2 daily
Pluma (%2233 0336)
shop dedicated to old and new artists of the
Ouro Prêto
7hr
R$60-90
2 daily
Util (%2518 1133)
genre. Upstairs, Vinícius de Moraes fans can
Destination Airline
Cost
Frequency
Paraty 4hr
R$39
7
daily
Costa
Verde
(%2233 3809)
get a glimpse of his life’s work in the small
Belém Gol R$369-625
3-4
daily
Petrópolis 1½hr
R$12
10
daily
Facil/Unica
(%2263 8792)
museum dedicated to him.
TAM
R$420-650 7-10
daily
Porto Alegre
26hr
R$200 daily
Itapemirim (%0800 723 2121)
Top Sound (Map pp140-1 ; %2267 9607; Av NS de Co-
Recife
38hr
R$235
daily
São Geraldo (%2263 9008)
pacabana 1103C, Copacabana) A small store with a
Fortaleza Gol R$379-520
12-20
daily
Salvador
26hr
R$176
daily
Aguia Branca (%4004 1010)
TAM
R$369-550 12-20
daily
decent selection of new and used CDs.
Vitória 8hr
R$55-69
4 daily
Itapemirim (%0800 723 2121)
Foz do Iguaçu Gol
R$180-565
4-6 daily
Shopping Malls
TAM
R$220-370 5-7
daily
Rio has many large shoppings (malls), par-
Manaus Gol R$349-805
5-9
daily
GETTING AROUND
(common) taxi should cost around R$60 to
ticularly in Barra. Most keep hours from
TAM
R$500-620 3-4
daily
To/From the Airports
Ipanema if the meter is working.
10am to 10pm Monday through Saturday.
Recife
Gol
R$209-349
5-7 daily
Rio’s international airport, Aeroporto Galeão
Some open on Sunday as well (3pm to 10pm,
TAM
R$289-489 12-20
daily
(GIG) is 15km north of the city center, on Ilha
Boat
typically).
Salvador Gol R$129-289
5-7
daily
do Governador. Aeroporto Santos Dumont,
Rio has several islands in the bay that you can
Barra Shopping (Map p137 ; Av das Américas 4666, Barra
TAM
R$259-320 12-20
daily
used by some domestic flights, is by the bay-
visit by ferry, though you can also get fine
da Tijuca) Enormous! It has 500 stores, 42 restaurants and
side in the city center, 1km east of Cinelândia
views on the commuter ferry to Niterói. See
five movie screens.
São Paulo
Gol
R$89-209
4-7 daily
metro station.
p156 for more information.
Botafogo Praia Shopping
TAM
R$189
3-5
daily
(Map pp142-3 ; Praia de
Real Auto Bus (%0800 240 850) operates buses
Ilha de Paquetá (Map p137 ; %ferries 4004 3113,
Botafogo 400, Botafogo) Great views from top-floor
with air-con from the international airport
hydrofoils 2533 4343) The regular ferry (weekday/weekend
restaurants.
Bus
(outside the arrivals floor of Terminal 1 or
return R$7.20/12, 70 minutes, seven to nine daily) runs
Rio Design Center (Map p137 ; Av das Américas 7770,
Buses leave from the Rodoviária Novo Rio (Novo
the ground floor of Terminal 2) to Rodoviária
from 7:10am to 11pm. The hydrofoil (return R$16, 30
Barra da Tijuca) Art galleries and high-end shops selling
Rio Bus Station; Map pp146-7 ; %3213 1800; www.novorio
Novo Rio, Av Rio Branco (Centro), Aeroporto
minutes, two to four daily) often cancels service for no
home furnishings and decorative pieces.
.com.br; Av Francisco Bicalho, São Cristóvão), about 2km
Santos Dumont, southward through Glória,
apparent reason.
Rio Sul (Map pp142-3 ; Rua Lauro Müller 116, Botafogo)
northwest of Centro. Several buses depart daily
Flamengo and Botafogo and along the beaches
Niterói (Map p137 ) The ferry (return R$4.60, 20 minutes)
São Conrado Fashion Mall (Map p137 ; Estrada da
to most major destinations, but it’s best to buy
of Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon to Barra
leaves every 20 minutes from Praça XV de Novembro in
Gávea 899, São Conrado) The city’s most upscale boutiques
tickets in advance. Some travel agencies in the
da Tijuca (and vice versa). The buses run every
Centro (Map pp144-5 ). Faster and more comfortable cata-
and pretty cafés, too.
city sell bus tickets. If you’re in Centro, try
30 minutes, from 5:20am to 12:10am, and
marans (return R$11, 10 minutes) run every 15 minutes
Shopping Leblon (Map pp138-9 ; Av Afrânio de Melo
Dantur Passagens (Map pp144-5 ; %2262 3424; downstairs,
will stop wherever you ask. Fares are around
from 7am to 4pm.
Franco 290, Leblon) Rio’s newest, with glitzy shops and
Store 134, Av Rio Branco 156, Centro; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri).
R$6, and it takes anywhere from one to two
enticing eateries.
If you arrive in Rio by bus, it’s a good idea
hours to reach the Zona Sul from the airport
Car
to take a taxi to your hotel, as the bus station
depending on traffic. You can also transfer to
Driving can be frustrating even if you know
GETTING THERE & AWAY
is in a seedy area. To arrange a cab, go to
the metro at Carioca metro station.
your way around. If you do drive in Rio, it’s
Air
the small booth near the Riotur desk, on the
Heading to the airports, you can catch the
good to know a couple of things: The first is
Most flights depart from Aeroporto Galeão
1st floor of the bus station. Average fares are
Real Auto bus in front of the major hotels,
that Cariocas don’t always stop at red lights
(Map p137 ; also called Aeroporto António
R$35 to the international airport and R$30 to
along the main beaches, but you have to look
at night, because of the small risk of robberies
Carlos Jobim), 15km north of the center.
Copacabana or Ipanema.
alive and flag them down.
at deserted intersections. Instead they slow
Some flights to/from São Paulo and other
In addition to destinations below, buses
Taxis from the international airport may try
at red lights and proceed if no one is around.
nearby cities use Aeroporto Santos Dumont
leave Novo Rio every 30 minutes or so for
to rip you off. The safest course, a radio taxi
Another thing to know is that if you park
(Map pp144–5 ), in the city center. Many in-
São Paulo (R$57 to R$74, six hours) oper-
for which you pay a set fare at the airport, is
your car on the street, it’s common to pay the
ternational airlines have offices on or near Av
ated by Viação 1001 (%4004 5001) and Itapemirim
also the most expensive (R$72/86 to Copaca-
flanelinha (parking attendant) R$2 for looking
Rio Branco, Centro.
(%0800 723 2121).
bana/Ipanema). A yellow-and-blue comúm
after it. Some of them work for the city; others
© Lonely Planet Publications
186 R I O D E J A N E I R O C I T Y • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d
l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m
are ‘freelance,’ but regardless, it’s a common
no discount for round-trip or multiple-ride
practice throughout Brazil.
tickets – although you can connect to an In-
tegração bus for free. Just be sure to request
HIRE
a bilhete integração (integrated ticket) at the
Car-hire agencies can be found at either air-
ticket booth. Free subway maps are available
port or scattered along Av Princesa Isabel
at most ticket booths.
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY in Copacabana. At the international airport,
Hertz (%3398 4377), Localiza (%3398 5445) and Uni-
BUS & VAN
das (%3398 3452) provide hire cars. In Copac-
Rio buses (R$1.90 to R$2.30) are fast and fre-
abana the following are worth a try: Avis (Map
quent, and because Rio is long and narrow it’s
pp140-1 ; %2543 8481; Av Princesa Isabel 350, Copacabana),
easy to get the right bus and usually no big deal
Localiza (Map pp140-1 ; %2275 3340; Av Princesa Isabel
if you’re on the wrong one. Most buses going
150, Copacabana), Actual (Map pp140-1 ; %2541 3444; Av
south from the center will go to Copacabana,
Princesa Isabel 181, Copacabana) and Hertz (Map pp140-1 ;
and vice versa. The buses are, however, often
%2275 7440; Av Princesa Isabel 500, Copacabana).
crowded, stuck in traffic, and driven by raving
For more information on renting a car,
maniacs. They’re also the sites of many of the
see p721 .
city’s robberies, and it’s not wise to ride late
at night. On most buses you now board at the
Public Transportation
front, and pay the fare to the money collector.
METRO
To avoid pickpockets and muggers, try to sit
Rio’s subway system is an excellent, speedy
near the front of the bus. Avoid packed buses.
way to get around. It’s open from 5am to
Minibuses (Cariocas call them vans)
midnight Monday through Saturday and 7am
provide a faster alternative between Av Rio
to 11pm on Sunday and holidays. During Car-
Branco in Centro and the Zona Sul as far
naval the metro operates nonstop from Friday
as Barra da Tijuca. The destination is writ-
morning until Tuesday at midnight.
ten in the front window. The flat fare costs
Both air-conditioned lines are clean, fast
around R$4.
and safe. The main line goes from Canta-
galo (which opened in 2007) in Copacabana
Taxi
to Saens Peña, connecting with the second-
Rio’s taxis are quite handy for zipping around
ary line at Estácio (which provides service
town. Metered taxis charge around R$4.30 flat
to São Cristóvão, Maracanã and northern
rate, plus around R$3 per km – slightly more
suburbs). More stations are planned in the
at night and on Sunday. Radio taxis are 30%
coming years, and eventually Ipanema (Praça
more expensive, but safer.
General Osório) will be linked to the system.
A selection of radio taxis includes Centraltáxi
You can buy one-way, round-trip or 10-ride
(%2593 2598), Coopatáxi (%3899 4343), JB (%2501
tickets. A basic single costs R$2.30, and there’s
3026) and Transcoopass (%2560 4888).
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